Head bolt?????

I have a 429 with 11.2 compression, just the short block is assembled. At what point in building an engine should a person used head studs instead of the factory bolts.

IMHO, if it's going in a car...use the stock head bolts. It's mighty hard to pull a head, in a car, with studs installed. IF you have lotsa clearance, then studs are good.

Chuck is right BUT,ARP now has studs that have a allen wrench insert,that you install and remove w/allen wrench.After you remove the nut you can remove the stud also then just slip the head from the dowels. Personally.I like to use studs when possible.

[quote="tiger"]I have a 429 with 11.2 compression, just the short block is assembled. At what point in building an engine should a person used head studs instead of the factory bolts.[/quote
Stock bolts in good condition should be good per your appication.

Like Lem and the others have mentioned, good (as to threads) clean factory head bolts will go a long way! Also, most engines in stock bodied cars with head studs can be a nightmare or worse if in need of cylinder head removal! That has been mentioned too! I've used factory bolts with compression ratio's a bit higher and haven't experienced to much trouble, I just could not keep the main caps steady! (my old factory junk)

Dave.

Yuppers, ARP has the allen wrench deal BUT....'haint gonna help IF you've got a heater box or master cylinder in the way.

chuck stevens wrote:Yuppers, ARP has the allen wrench deal BUT....'haint gonna help IF you've got a heater box or master cylinder in the way.

This is true