Wonder how trany shops are welding input to drum and getting it perfectly straight?

Friend welded a differant c4 early drum up in the peanut holes for me and was planning on welding the input to it and try my luck once more. My main concern was if i got shaft any off center and taking out the stator Bushing. I am going to get a old pump/stator and stick the drum on it and see if that helps by holding it down square to the drum and see how much play there is that way. Its pretty tight in drum now but can anlge a degree or 2. I beleive it being long it would have to be near perfect. I am also going to preheat the shaft to take out even move clearance, hopefully making a temporary press fit. Could yo maybe lock tight it and check for straightness then weld or would the loctite come out once used and get in everthing?? Boy i am trying to LIC this drum problem

the only way to fix the drum problem is to re-design the transmission.

I guess if it wasnt for perseverance I wouldnt be here.

I guess if it wasnt for perseverance I wouldnt be here.

That would be a good alternative and the next one if this fails. I talked to several guys on the bullet running welded ones in the 8 second range and And LUPOS trans shop said hes got one welded in the high 7 seconds with the same drum and shaft all welded. My friend wanted to try welding it better and not just fill it in. Since it doesnt cost anything it worth a shot. I wanted to loosen high clearance up some anyway so this last brake wasnt a all bad thing ,and its winter LOL. I hate pulling them but enjoy working/learning on them.

I appreciate you trying to help. And yes you are right especially with your car and anyone who bracket races or If you have the money to slap down and not look back. I am only trying to line the car out and have a little fun which i have been doing and can show by my ET improvement. I beleive the smaller tire/sidewall might be why third is having a harder time living as well as it being a bigblock. I have already found a stock powerglide and working on a converter from a friend.That about a 1/4 of cost i figured. If i want to play any next year the c4 will have to do. I was told i couldnt run pump gas over 12/1 and drive this on street and so on and i didnt take it to heart then and glad i didnt. As long as i can throw it back together with stock parts it got almost nothing. Goodluck with your build/car I see you got it flying .
Ed501

Ed not sure if i mentioned before what about a steel press on sleeve ?? I've not tried this but guys on FordMuscle have had good luck. Here's 2 different versions

Thanks Gegaust, I am going to try the bronse filled Next time. I talked to Tci and they said its only good for 600hp? My FRiend /Mechanic is a ACE and thinks welding worth a shot and wanted to do it for free. For what its worth when i replace the drum with a bought one i wanted to buy a differant shaft anyway. If this dont work I bet i will save atleast one person the trouble since there is some debate for sure.

I know some guys making way more than 600 with that sleeve...Not sure what the max is...My old 408 had the stock drum & was also making about 1000 with nos....
Here is the cure for that problem anyways....Its not real cheap but will save a person money in the long run if your making much power...I have never seen one crack in al my years but i know others have on some turbo cars...Im gona replace mine i guess with this one' Or another place has an aluminum one also...

http://tcsproducts.com/details.html?id=677

It seems Big Blocks have more trouble then others with breaking drums. Alot of mass rotating and more torque. When i figure the rest out (IF} then i might spend the money on a billet drum. Always liked these c4s but always been a smallblock guy with some spray occasionally 6.80s N/A

I have always been a true blue ford fan' and i dont down anyone for running a glide...But i just can't make myself do it...I live in the country in the stix' but i still dont crossbreed...LoL..I think with these few new mods the c4 has now' the little c4 should hold up to whatever u throw at it....I just finnished a 438 stroker / 13:5.1 compression/c4 fully roller--hardened shaft--6+6 clutches--rev manual v-body--pa servo cover--pa bell--steel sleeve in drum...I will be running 3 stages of nos...I will try it out the first of the year on 1 stage first..Onlything i do want to try is the gear set that has the higher 1st gear...