Cam question?

AUDIOADDICT02 wrote:

dfree383 wrote:You need to do a much smaller cam, for the street smaller is better.

also a Powerglide is not what your want for a street F250...... Stick with the C6.

It will see the track every once in a while though & I'm tired of driving down the highway at such high rpms, so idk what other 4-speed tranny will handle/fit the 460?

The Factory OD Auto that came in the Truck's in the 90's will handle what your doing fine. They are a little expensive (Compaired to a C6) and require some electrical knowlage.

dfree383 wrote:Something like this is way more inline with what your doing



Stick with the the 9:1-9.8:1 range, don't worry about decking the block.

It will run alot better, with a stock type convertor, 3.54 gears and a heavy truck.

Damn, now I have to find a buyer for my cam.

You learn something new everyday!

Thanks for the help/responses guys!

dfree383 wrote:

AUDIOADDICT02 wrote:

dfree383 wrote:You need to do a much smaller cam, for the street smaller is better.

also a Powerglide is not what your want for a street F250...... Stick with the C6.

It will see the track every once in a while though & I'm tired of driving down the highway at such high rpms, so idk what other 4-speed tranny will handle/fit the 460?

The Factory OD Auto that came in the Truck's in the 90's will handle what your doing fine. They are a little expensive (Compaired to a C6) and require some electrical knowlage.

I could probably find one at the local junkyards, there are LOTS of those Fords there. Will I have to install any extra modules, sensors, etc? I have a bit of an auto-electrical background.

Also, if you decide to go with aluminum heads the Small TFS Street are probably right up your alley with what your doing. They may be a little more expensive than the SCJ's, but I think they are a slightly better choice for heavy applications.

Remember, Getting the right parts, even if the initial cost is more, has alot better value than buying the stuff twice.

AUDIOADDICT02 wrote:

dfree383 wrote:

AUDIOADDICT02 wrote:

dfree383 wrote:You need to do a much smaller cam, for the street smaller is better.

also a Powerglide is not what your want for a street F250...... Stick with the C6.

It will see the track every once in a while though & I'm tired of driving down the highway at such high rpms, so idk what other 4-speed tranny will handle/fit the 460?

The Factory OD Auto that came in the Truck's in the 90's will handle what your doing fine. They are a little expensive (Compaired to a C6) and require some electrical knowlage.

I could probably find one at the local junkyards, there are LOTS of those Fords there. Will I have to install any extra modules, sensors, etc? I have a bit of an auto-electrical background.

GregP on here swapped one into his torino, maybe he will stop by and add his 2 cents, I've never done the swap myself. I typicaly have run either PG's (Drag Applications) or C6's in my stuff.

The E4OD requires an electronic controller. Baumann makes a nice one, only problem is add about $600 - $700 to the cost of the swap. As far as the E4OD goes it was introduced in 1989 and best are 1995 and newer as alot of changes in the early years. The E4OD is longer than a C-6 so you will have to shorten your drive shaft and also move the rear crossmember back.

If you don't mind shifting the ZF 5 speed is a good swap. Another way to go is keep the C-6, gear the truck for highway and build a 521 with the aim being low and mid range torque.

I can tell you if you intend to put H-beam rods in you will need to rebalance and going that far a good set of forged pistons be in order so by the time you get done if you are going to touch the short block better to do a stroker.

If it was me I'd do a 521. Just something to think about. If you are going to stay with the 460 the suggestions Dfree makes are sound.

how would decking the block make less valve lift you are making this more complex than you need to and going at this build all wrong

cturk1010 wrote:how would decking the block make less valve lift you are making this more complex than you need to and going at this build all wrong

Where did you read that???? Decking the block will reduce the amount of piston to valve clearance, not the valve lift.

dfree383 wrote:

cturk1010 wrote:how would decking the block make less valve lift you are making this more complex than you need to and going at this build all wrong

Where did you read that???? Decking the block will reduce the amount of piston to valve clearance, not the valve lift.

This is what I meant, sorry cturk.

466cj wrote:The E4OD requires an electronic controller. Baumann makes a nice one, only problem is add about $600 - $700 to the cost of the swap. As far as the E4OD goes it was introduced in 1989 and best are 1995 and newer as alot of changes in the early years. The E4OD is longer than a C-6 so you will have to shorten your drive shaft and also move the rear crossmember back.

If you don't mind shifting the ZF 5 speed is a good swap. Another way to go is keep the C-6, gear the truck for highway and build a 521 with the aim being low and mid range torque.

I can tell you if you intend to put H-beam rods in you will need to rebalance and going that far a good set of forged pistons be in order so by the time you get done if you are going to touch the short block better to do a stroker.

If it was me I'd do a 521. Just something to think about. If you are going to stay with the 460 the suggestions Dfree makes are sound.

Damn, I guess I'll keep the C6 in there, I've been thinking of 3.05 gears to reduce the highway cruising rpms.
I've been wanting to do a 521 for a while, but we're saving that for when my old man gets a 'stang. I'll just stick to the basics on this engine since it's my daily driver, thanks for the suggestions though.

If it's an F250, it should have a Sterling rear in it, the 8.8's were in F150's. How tall of a tire in the rear? With 3.54's and a C6 with a decent converter, you should only be running 2500 rpm with a 30" tire @ 60mph or so.

schmitty wrote:If it's an F250, it should have a Sterling rear in it, the 8.8's were in F150's. How tall of a tire in the rear? With 3.54's and a C6 with a decent converter, you should only be running 2500 rpm with a 30" tire @ 60mph or so.

Hmm, looks like a 8.8 though..33" tires, 65mph @2500rpm, 75@3000, I can see my gas needle move to the left at that point.

8 lug axles = Sterling
5 lug axles = 8.8

With 33" tires, it will be more like 2600@ 70mph. If you go to 3.08 gears, you will be way to low on rpms. You need the torque multiplication to move that pig.

schmitty wrote:8 lug axles = Sterling
5 lug axles = 8.8

With 33" tires, it will be more like 2600@ 70mph. If you go to 3.08 gears, you will be way to low on rpms. You need the torque multiplication to move that pig.

Ah, I see...in that case it's a Sterling with 3.54 gears & limited slip.
That's what I was afraid of if I changed the gear ratio, that it would feel a lot more sluggish.

No matter how you look at it ... a 6,000 pound vehicle will certainly not feel as nimble as a 3,500 pound car.

rmcomprandy wrote:No matter how you look at it ... a 6,000 pound vehicle will certainly not feel as nimble as a 3,500 pound car.

I know that, but with a bit of work it could keep up with new car technology & speed, everyone discriminates these trucks as they are known for being slow, so I wanna build something more of a "super truck" in way.