fox body caster camber adjustment...

Anybody know how many degrees of caster adjustment a fox body has w caster/camber plates?

ok then..

how much caster do most of you guys run then?

As much positive as possible with your plates. It really helps stability at high speeds. Understand though that it will require a toe adjustment

I put all mustang strut front suspension under my f100..its street strip and has 900hp...
i wanna mount the top of the strut so i have the most "usable"range of adj in my caster/camber plates...

If you can get 2 degrees with a regular caster/camber plate you are doing pretty good on a mustang. Some get more. We run 5-6 degrees with the weld in plates.

I've got it mocked up at +4 now.
would that be the least id ever need?

mines at 8, drives great............

richter69 wrote:mines at 8, drives great............

That's were mine is too..............

If I could get 7-8 I would too.

whatbumper wrote:If I could get 7-8 I would too.

Home made plates out of .500 steel.............. I can get about anywhere I want to be with them.

II know on the fox cars Duffy kicks the lower control are forward to acheive more caster with the reg plates. Mine is all fabbed up I could put it where I wanted it and it sounds like the op has the same option......................I'd shoot for 8-12 IMO, one side effect is the more castor the harder the steering effort will be at zero or low speeds, so that is something to consider.

IDT-572 wrote:

whatbumper wrote:If I could get 7-8 I would too.

Home made plates out of .500 steel.............. I can get about anywhere I want to be with them.

Got any photos of those Blake?

Another thing to look for/re-check if you make a decent jump in any car's positive caster settings is a possible increase in bump-steer showing up. As the spindle/strut centerline is leaned back more & more to increase the caster, the front of the spindle's steering arm will also rotate up/back away farther & farther from the rack's C/L changing that geometry a given amount.

since I do plan on street driving this setup w a manual rack, whats goin to be a good compromise? I'm inclined to start my adjustability at +4. (lowest avail caster) I can't see this thing seeing more than 135mph unless I decide to run it at Bonneville...thoughts??

dirt_worker wrote:........whats goin to be a good compromise? I'm inclined to start my adjustability at +4.......

Like Jon mentioned, as you get closer & closer to the 10* positive caster range, steering effort at slower "driving around town" speeds really starts to increase a bunch (especially on a heavier car).

How much caster on a street/strip car can be a hard choice to make. On one hand a drag car with 5-10* positive caster (even if you're not fast enough to need it) just makes life easier & the car more stable at speed. But on the other hand having only something like 2-3* positive caster when driving around town at slower/start-stop speeds with a manual rack makes steering effort so much easier.

I guess if you're doing all the adjusting yourself, it wouldn't cost you anything to just start at 4-5* positive & just see what kind of street/strip manners it has at that setting. Then work from there (up or down) depending on what you feel you need more of (easier steering effort or more stable at speed).

Doug Rahn wrote:

IDT-572 wrote:

whatbumper wrote:If I could get 7-8 I would too.

Home made plates out of .500 steel.............. I can get about anywhere I want to be with them.

Got any photos of those Blake?

You should have them Doug.

last time I saw them plates they didnt have any paint on um...............

richter69 wrote:last time I saw them plates they didnt have any paint on um...............

Paint don't makem go any faster................ And they still don't have any.

Thanks, I got them. I wasn't going to say anything about the lack of any protective corrosion enhancement, but since it was brought up......