SBF valve lash (mechanical cam)

I have a mechanical flat tappet cam and need to be able to adjust the valve lash properly. The heads have factory rocker arms that are tightened down with bolts like a pedestal mount. I'm wondering if there is a way to adjust the valve lash with these because with the mechanical cam its supposed to be set at .022"

Any help would be appreciated

you need to install a rocker stud that allows for the adjustment of the proper clearance. If I remember right I used to use chevy screw-in rocker studs. It will mean you will have to buy rockers too. I think you may have to machine the boss on the heads about the thickness of the hex part of the stud. Then thread the holes to accept the studs

The holes are already threaded, and I do have a set of heads that are all assembled with pressed in studs and rocker arms. I'm not sure if I can use those somehow. But I also have a set of bbf harland sharps, and bbf head studs. Not sure if I can make something up that will work with the parts I have laying around.

JEGS Performance Products 20185
Ford Pedestal Rocker Shim Kit
(16) 0.030"
(16) 0.060"




Item# 555-20185
Ships Today
Only $8.99

More Info

514Fox87 wrote:
JEGS Performance Products 20185
Ford Pedestal Rocker Shim Kit
(16) 0.030"
(16) 0.060"




Item# 555-20185
Ships Today
Only $8.99

More Info

What do I do, put them between the rocker arm and cylinder head? And another question, would I be able to obtain the .022 lash I need with those? (I'm wondering because it says .030 and .060)

Harland Sharp has a set of adjustable pedestal mount rockers, but you limited on spring pressure. I have a set on my small block Mustang.

http://www.harlandsharp.com/ford_v6_v8.htm

bb429power wrote:The holes are already threaded, and I do have a set of heads that are all assembled with pressed in studs and rocker arms. I'm not sure if I can use those somehow. But I also have a set of bbf harland sharps, and bbf head studs. Not sure if I can make something up that will work with the parts I have laying around.

It's been a few years since i've worked w/small blocks alot,but the BBF rockers will be the wrong ratio for the SB. The studs will probably be too long also.

IMO, I would buy a hydraulic design flat tappet camshaft suitable for your application. The route your trying to travel might bring you a bit of bad luck.

Dave.

Already have the cam, and this will be a strip only car. And I know I'll have to check the valve lash often. And those harland sharps are useless to me then, I may sell them. They never got used on the big block.

I'll look over my setup again today and check out the mounting a little better

Would that shim kit allow me to set it at .022 lash or should I buy a set of .020 shims from elsewhere? I'm about to order some parts

bb429power wrote:Would that shim kit allow me to set it at .022 lash or should I buy a set of .020 shims from elsewhere? I'm about to order some parts

You need to install adjustable rockers, either the Harlin sharp ones that bolt on or have the heads machines for studs, guide plates and get hardened pushrods.

The shim thing is asking for failure.

The Shim kit is for setting lifter preload on a hydraulic cam/pedistal mount rocker set-up.It will not work for setting lash with precision that you will need for a solid cam. The right way to do this is to have .200 milled off the rocker pedistals, have the rocker mount holes drilled and tapped to 7/16-14, and install srcew-in studs, guide plates and hardened pushrods. It would be cheaper and easier to just put in a hydraulic cam. Unless the heads you are working with are something special, a set of pedistal mount iron SBF heads aren't worth what it would cost in machine work to convert them to studs

Well i have the cam already minus the lifters. I wanted a mechanical cam so the higher rpms wouldn't be an issue like the hydraulic might have with bleeding off. As far as machining for studs, the holes are tapped and the cost of machining them, getting studs guidplates and rockers for a stud setup would be more. I'm not sure what to do now, I cant get a different cam, and I'm not sure what I'm going to do at this point.

Should have bought those Windsor jr heads, they come with all that.

Diggindeeper wrote:Should have bought those Windsor jr heads, they come with all that.

Still wouldn't be able to buy them. $$$

I saw these but they are probably junk
http://store.440source.com/Rocker-Shaft-Shims-pkg-of-30/productinfo/127-1020/

Edit- nevermind

Looking at my options as far as roller rockers... if anyone has a set let me know please

(have some bbf harland shaps 1.73 brand new if interested in a trade)

bb429power wrote:Well i have the cam already minus the lifters. I wanted a mechanical cam so the higher rpms wouldn't be an issue like the hydraulic might have with bleeding off. As far as machining for studs, the holes are tapped and the cost of machining them, getting studs guidplates and rockers for a stud setup would be more. I'm not sure what to do now, I cant get a different cam, and I'm not sure what I'm going to do at this point.

The hydraulic cam is going to be the cheapest way that will work properly.

Hydraulic cam isn't really an option to us right now. I'll have to make it work somehow

What year are the heads? if I'm thinking right your going to have to remove the heads and mill like .300 off the pedestal before you can put any screw in studs. and your going to need to put in a larger diameter like from 5/16 to minimum 3/8. then you can get new roller rocker arms and you may still need to get custom push rods. This is all out lined in the FORD racing catalogs


Ace

I wonder if I can shim it up .020" to get by for now, then get fully adjustable rocker arms. But I don't know, can't figure out what I'm going to do now

And these are 97 GT-40P heads, which are commonly used

bb429power wrote:I wonder if I can shim it up .020" to get by for now, then get fully adjustable rocker arms. But I don't know, can't figure out what I'm going to do now

No you can not get by like that.... Either do it right or stop asking!

You can get a decent performance hyd cam and lifters for under $200, or even less If a no name cam will suffice. Summer sells a few grinds for under $120, Typically with the right grind and decent springs they will go to 6800 +/- sometimes a little more.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K3602/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL31-246-3/

Studs, guide plates, rockers, pushrods and machine work are going to set you back about in the $500-800 range depending on the quality of parts desired.

Let me give a little background info on what it had in it, a set of stock 68 302 heads with valve springs and that's it. Then the cam was an edelbrock performer rpm and I took that thing to 7200 if I revved it in neutral, shifted at 6500 with ease.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7122/

Now what I'm trying to do which wont work is use a set of GT-40P heads that I ported and am putting springs on. And use the bigger cam that I got from Lunati. I can't find a link to it but its definitely an upgrade. Now either I buy a set of roller rockers with a pedestal mount for $175 and use this cam, (which I'm guessing would require guideplates and maybe pushrods?)

Or I buy a new cam and lifter kit for $200 and use my stock stamped steel rocker arms.

Sound about right?