Q's about 351w?

building a 420 stroker with 11.14 compression, AFR220 renegade heads, custom roller cam from Bullit Cams, some street driving but at track will spray a 200hp NOS shot plate system every now and then. What head gaskets should I run and also what motor mounts should I use, solid or poly?

Thanks

stanggt wrote:building a 420 stroker with 11.14 compression, AFR220 renegade heads, custom roller cam from Bullit Cams, some street driving but at track will spray a 200hp NOS shot plate system every now and then. What head gaskets should I run and also what motor mounts should I use, solid or poly?

Thanks

Run the Poly with the torque limiter!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-4010/overview/

The choice of head gasket design may rely on the cylinder head and block mating surface finish. The Nitrous may need a steel layered gasket, although block finish will dictate or have bearing on your decision. Solid motor mounts.

Dave.

Cometics and solid mounts

67mustang wrote:Cometics and solid mounts

I agree with head gasket choice ,but if your going to drive it on the street it gets pretty annoying with the viberation from the solid mounts. The mounts are what ever you can tolerate.

LivermoreDave wrote:The choice of head gasket design may rely on the cylinder head and block mating surface finish. The Nitrous may need a steel layered gasket, although block finish will dictate or have bearing on your decision. Solid motor mounts.

Dave.

the block has a fresh cut deck at zero. I was leaning toward the cometics also. And if I use solid motormounts, would I use a rubber or poly mount on trans?

On the street, if you haven't created a rigid frame connection between the front and back it may be best to rubber the transmission. Ask your machinist about the deck's finish.

Dave.

On mine, I took the stock motor mounts and drilled through them vertically. I then ran two grade 8 5/8" bolts through them and bolted them snug. That way, the factory rubber isolator still absorbs the vibration, but I don't have to worry about splitting the factory mounts. It's worked great. Best of all, it's relatively cheap lol.

Maxx Levell wrote:On mine, I took the stock motor mounts and drilled through them vertically. I then ran two grade 8 5/8" bolts through them and bolted them snug. That way, the factory rubber isolator still absorbs the vibration, but I don't have to worry about splitting the factory mounts. It's worked great. Best of all, it's relatively cheap lol.

Convertible 5.0 motor mounts come like this already, plus they lower the motor a bit, and last time I checked they were cheaper than standard 5.0 mounts.

Jess