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Thanks to 429-460 forum. ET improvement.

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richter69
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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 2:49 pm

I never realized all ignition boxes were that much different in timing. I had 5 runs on the car with the new motor with a best of 9.81. Checked the timing last week after reading the MSD question thread and double checked mine. It was supposed to be at 38 degrees and found it at 34 degrees. Changed it and ran this weekend. 9.77 first run and 9.79 second run. I also made an airpan of aluminum to seal the carb to the cowl after doing the yarn test on the back of the cowl.That may have contributed to it also. I will test later without the airpan as I didn't have time yesterday. I was trying to slow it down to 10.00 class at VMP on the 30th. I will let all know when I test it to see if it was the airpan or timing. Bet it was the timing though. Thanks to all on this forum and the people that support it!!!!
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Post  richter69 March 24th 2013, 3:59 pm

also make note of the air/weather/ track temps as it will effect performance also.
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Post  bruno March 24th 2013, 4:36 pm

congrats thats some great improvements cheers

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Post  bbf-falcon March 24th 2013, 6:57 pm

70FB wrote:I never realized all ignition boxes were that much different in timing. I had 5 runs on the car with the new motor with a best of 9.81. Checked the timing last week after reading the MSD question thread and double checked mine. It was supposed to be at 38 degrees and found it at 34 degrees. Changed it and ran this weekend. 9.77 first run and 9.79 second run. I also made an airpan of aluminum to seal the carb to the cowl after doing the yarn test on the back of the cowl.That may have contributed to it also. I will test later without the airpan as I didn't have time yesterday. I was trying to slow it down to 10.00 class at VMP on the 30th. I will let all know when I test it to see if it was the airpan or timing. Bet it was the timing though. Thanks to all on this forum and the people that support it!!!!

Should have slowed down going from 34* to 38* Suspect

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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 7:54 pm

richter69 wrote:also make note of the air/weather/ track temps as it will effect performance also.
I didn't fool with checking the DA but air temp was 54 and 5 mph head wind.. Nothing on the track temp. Right now I'm using the "Jeg's logbook" which has some room for improvement. May make a spreadsheet to have my own stuff that I need.
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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 7:56 pm

bbf-falcon wrote:
70FB wrote:I never realized all ignition boxes were that much different in timing. I had 5 runs on the car with the new motor with a best of 9.81. Checked the timing last week after reading the MSD question thread and double checked mine. It was supposed to be at 38 degrees and found it at 34 degrees. Changed it and ran this weekend. 9.77 first run and 9.79 second run. I also made an airpan of aluminum to seal the carb to the cowl after doing the yarn test on the back of the cowl.That may have contributed to it also. I will test later without the airpan as I didn't have time yesterday. I was trying to slow it down to 10.00 class at VMP on the 30th. I will let all know when I test it to see if it was the airpan or timing. Bet it was the timing though. Thanks to all on this forum and the people that support it!!!!

Should have slowed down going from 34* to 38* Suspect
May have come from that airpan..??...pulling from the higfh pressure area at the base of the windshield.
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Post  Dave C. March 24th 2013, 8:35 pm

You mentioned a yarn test .What the heck is that?

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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 9:40 pm

With a cowl induction hood. Tape some yarn to the top of the cowl hanging down to the cowl. When you go down the track look to see which way its going. If its sucking in towards the carb...the engine is getting good clean air from the high pressure area at the bottom of the windshield......If its blowing towards the windshield...you could have a reverse pressure actually pulling the air from the carb. The carb would be sucking the hot air under the hood and have a negative flow going to it.



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Post  whitefield March 24th 2013, 9:43 pm

Dave C. wrote:You mentioned a yarn test .What the heck is that?

Thats what I wanted to know !
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Post  whitefield March 24th 2013, 9:44 pm

70FB wrote:With a cowl induction hood. Tape some yarn to the top of the cowl hanging down to the cowl. When you go down the track look to see which way its going. If its sucking in towards the carb...the engine is getting good clean air from the high pressure area at the bottom of the windshield......If its blowing towards the windshield...you could have a reverse pressure actually pulling the air from the carb. The carb would be sucking the hot air under the hood and have a negative flow going to it.





Some good info!
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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 9:48 pm

With a cowl induction hood. Tape some yarn to the top of the cowl hanging down to the cowl. When you go down the track look to see which way its going. If its sucking in towards the carb...the engine is getting good clean air from the high pressure area at the bottom of the windshield......If its blowing towards the windshield...you could have a reverse pressure actually pulling the air from the carb. The carb would be sucking the hot air under the hood and have a negative flow going to it.



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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 9:49 pm

sorry for the double post
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Post  whitefield March 24th 2013, 9:52 pm

got any pics of your airpan ?
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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 9:54 pm

whitefield wrote:got any pics of your airpan ?
Take me a little while to load them up.
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Post  whitefield March 24th 2013, 9:58 pm

70FB wrote:
whitefield wrote:got any pics of your airpan ?
Take me a little while to load them up.

I undwestand ! I still can't load pics
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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 10:06 pm

Thanks to 429-460 forum. ET improvement. 119_zpsef0fc786 I used a "grip edge seal" from Mcmaster-carr to seal between the aluminum and hood. Hood is a 4-3/4" cowl. The seal basically has a 3/4" grip on bottom and a 1" hose on top for the seal. Worked perfect.



Thanks to 429-460 forum. ET improvement. 120_zpsf730f889
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Post  whitefield March 24th 2013, 10:13 pm

70FB wrote:Thanks to 429-460 forum. ET improvement. 119_zpsef0fc786 I used a "grip edge seal" from Mcmaster-carr to seal between the aluminum and hood. Hood is a 4-3/4" cowl. The seal basically has a 3/4" grip on bottom and a 1" hose on top for the seal. Worked perfect.



Thanks to 429-460 forum. ET improvement. 120_zpsf730f889



Very good info and thanks for the pics . How thick was the Aluminium that you made the pan out of ?
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Post  Dave C. March 24th 2013, 10:14 pm

I want one. Twisted Evil

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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 10:17 pm

.060 from a local metal yard. scrap piece about 3'X5' was about 35$. Total invested was maybe $50 bucks and 4 hours worth of time. Have some carbon fiber ready to try to duplicate. The key word is "TRY"!!!! hahaha
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Post  whitefield March 24th 2013, 10:20 pm

Dave C. wrote:I want one. Twisted Evil

Like the pic in your Avatar Better ! Smile
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Post  whitefield March 24th 2013, 10:22 pm

70FB wrote:.060 from a local metal yard. scrap piece about 3'X5' was about 35$. Total invested was maybe $50 bucks and 4 hours worth of time. Have some carbon fiber ready to try to duplicate. The key word is "TRY"!!!! hahaha


I am going to try and make me one this week! I am by no means a fabricator ! lol!
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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 10:29 pm

I don't have a metal brake. I have a bench with a 3/4" plywood top. I unsrewed it and put the metal in there..then screwed it back down and used a long 2x4 to bend it. Just take your time with it. I will update here with the carbon fiber trial. May be a couple days though.
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Post  Dave C. March 24th 2013, 10:47 pm

I can use Jons trailer door. Think it,ll work on a forward facing scoop?

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Post  70FB March 24th 2013, 10:50 pm

Dave C. wrote:I can use Jons trailer door. Think it,ll work on a forward facing scoop?
Maybe thats what happened to mine in the past. Its bent on one side. hahaha
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Post  richter69 March 25th 2013, 12:06 am

I bent my door panels on the trailer door, I got that tip from ol Mike D...... Wink
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