starting high comp. engine

OK guys give me some ideas how to get the motor not to kick back on starter? Thanks

less advance at the distributor..

I've never had an issue. You have a good starter? Strong Battery? Good Wiring / Cables?

And like has already been said proper timing?

Toss in an MSD start retard. My ignition has one built in, works great. You can get an add-on unit, though. There's also a timing controller that will allow you to manually retard timing with a dial from the driver's seat.

Is the advance locked out in the distributor?

I have the start retard. I'm thinking the starter needs replaced. If it keeps giving me trouble I'll just start it with 24 volt.

fatal addiction wrote:I have the start retard. I'm thinking the starter needs replaced. If it keeps giving me trouble I'll just start it with 24 volt.

Had that same problem. After talking with MSD tech rep, I found that rotor phase needed to be moved ahead a little bit. Turns out that 24 degrees of retard was enough to allow the spark to jump to the previous cylinder in the distributor rotation, especially with small diameter distributor caps. Try it with your deal. Might work out for you.

Yeah, I've seen fixed start retarders cause more trouble than they fix. I have a digital box and can control the amount of retard, and proper phasing is very important.

I don't have a crank trigger. Do u rotor phase the small cap distributor? I've never done it before. Only on my old engine that had crank trigger?? Thanks

No crank trigger, no rotor phasing. Is your timing locked or are you running an advance curve? How much plug gap?

If you suspect a weak starter, try cranking with ignition off. I doubt that's your problem, though.

you still need to check the rotor phase with a std dizzy, for sure with a start retard.......... start retard delays the signal. Get it phased and it should start like a new Buick.

Yeah I don't think its the starter it kicks with the ignition off? Flex plate is good no missing teeth and has a good pattern from starter gear. This thing is makin me mad I just want one motor in my life time to start good...lol

if its kickin back w the ign off you have a mechanical issue, or power/ ground to the starter/battery

Thanks guys I'll go through and check all my connections. I'll let u know what I come up with. Thanks again

One more question is it worth the money to switch to 16volt? My system is 12volt.. thanks again

fatal addiction wrote:One more question is it worth the money to switch to 16volt? My system is 12volt.. thanks again

no.

you bet your ass it is.....

OK need a tie breaker???? Lol

its your $$ and everybody who has 16v loves it. i never had the $800 to drop on it.

the charger makes the initial cost high, once you go 16v............ well use your imagination lol

I agree w/Cool40. If everything is right. Rotor phased,battery high,starter good,and timing correct,12v is plenty and it should start right up.
I had same issues as you w/Crank trigger,sob tore up starters and was just a real pia. I went back to a light springed dizzy and problems solved. I wouldn't have another CT OR locked dizzy shoved up my azz if I had room for a box car. jmo

What trans and flexplate? Reason I ask is I had starter issues with my C6 when using a 164 tooth flexplate had to use a184 tooth. Had quite a few people say that can't be but I broke more than fifty starters with a couple different 164 tooth flexplates but never broke one since going to the 184 in eight years.

164 tooth glide trans/ w1/2" rear motor plate. I looked around but couldn't find a 184 tooth for auto trans?

I had problem with the 552 cranking slow and kicking back when hot.I have db mini starter off ebay all I had to do is go bigger on my battery cable and it fixed my starting problem.mine is all 12vt system