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Safety harness

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dfree383
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Safety harness Empty Safety harness

Post  HorsinAround April 15th 2013, 2:01 pm

looking at safety harness's and see bolt in, wrap around, individual shoulder, v type??? What is the best way to go? I'm getting ready to weld in the cross tube on the cage and need to decide if I go bolt in or wrap around. what are the pros/cons to each type?
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Post  dfree383 April 15th 2013, 2:42 pm

I like the wrap around ones with the lever latch.
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Post  the Coug April 15th 2013, 2:49 pm

Alan do you have to have a SFI cert? or dated,
if not I have several sets of 5 points I will make you a heck of a deal on.....
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Post  HorsinAround April 15th 2013, 3:11 pm

Well, I don't plan to go fast enough to require a cage cert, and this is all I could find on the tech area of BunkerHill's website. I will say that since I am a newbie to drag racing, I don't know if I have to provide an sfi cert of date for belts. Sounds like I need to call the track and find out..

5. Tech Inspection. All cars are subject to tech inspection to confirm their compliance with basic safety rules. ALL drivers MUST SIGN AND COMPLETELY FILL OUT the tech card. (Special events) One driver may purchase two tech cards (double entry). Super Pro tech cards will be yellow and red, Pro tech cards will be blue and green. PLEASE REMEMBER YOUR COLOR! Upon completion of tech inspection you will be issued a run card that will allow you access to the track (no ticky...no laundry). Everyone must go through tech before going down the track, no exceptions. No one is to drive down the track without going through tech first. ALL cars are subject to inspection at any time to confirm their legality with regard to illegal timers, infrared scanners, counters, track locators, drive shaft interfaces, and/or (Pro) delay boxes. Aftermarket traction control devices of any kind are prohibited in all classes. 5a. CHANGING VEHICLES A racer may not change his race vehicle once eliminations begin. The vehicle that is used in the first round of racing by a competitor must be raced. You may, however, buy back in a different vehicle
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Post  richter69 April 15th 2013, 5:46 pm

cage cert or not if you have a cage it has to have a 5pt harness and in date...........most places wont update the lever deals, I use Stroud camlocks in both cars, they recert them for 50 bucks.
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Post  HorsinAround April 16th 2013, 8:14 am

richter69 wrote:cage cert or not if you have a cage it has to have a 5pt harness and in date...........most places wont update the lever deals, I use Stroud camlocks in both cars, they recert them for 50 bucks.

So it's just a matter of sending them into Stroud for Recert?
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Post  bigblok2000ranger April 16th 2013, 9:33 am

Buy new ones for now and have them recertified after the two years is up or buy new again. This is not a place you want to skimp they could save your life!
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Post  richter69 April 16th 2013, 10:58 am

HorsinAround wrote:
richter69 wrote:cage cert or not if you have a cage it has to have a 5pt harness and in date...........most places wont update the lever deals, I use Stroud camlocks in both cars, they recert them for 50 bucks.

So it's just a matter of sending them into Stroud for Recert?


yes.

dont buy the harness until your ready to go to the track............
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Post  Copperhead April 16th 2013, 3:38 pm

Piss on sending them back for a $50 re-certify fee.



By the time you pay for the shipping both ways, you can buy a set of the standard deals for about the same price,....OR sometimes even cheaper if you catch them on sale or have a racers discount.

I just keep mine for two years and when they expire I sell the to a mudder or dirt track guy for 1/2 price.

These are what I use in my truck,......

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gfr-6020bk
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Post  HorsinAround April 16th 2013, 3:55 pm

Copperhead wrote:Piss on sending them back for a $50 re-certify fee.



By the time you pay for the shipping both ways, you can buy a set of the standard deals for about the same price,....OR sometimes even cheaper if you catch them on sale or have a racers discount.

I just keep mine for two years and when they expire I sell the to a mudder or dirt track guy for 1/2 price.

These are what I use in my truck,......

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gfr-6020bk

Yea, I was thinking the same thing. As long as I stay with the latch and link type, its cheaper to replace then to recert.

"OR sometimes even cheaper if you catch them on sale or have a racers discount."
I was looking into this but seems like you have to have an NHRA license and I don't think my turd will go fast enough for me to get a license. If I'm correct, I'll just need to apply for a car number.
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