need less wheel stand

I need to make a 4 link adjustment and wanted to confirm I was going the right way. If I lower the top bar making the IC shorter it will contoll the pitch rotation keeping the front tires lower correct?

some good info........ http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/PB-4linktuning.html

Thanks some good info, if I read it correctly then lowering the front of the top bar should limit some of the pitch rotation. That way power is moving forward instead of up providing it can hook.

if you think about it you can A,lower the top bar 1 hole in front or B,go up 1 hole on the top bar at the housing. the only way to know is try it but it should do what your looking for.

Some questions....

How much power?
How big a tire?
How much air pressure?
How tight is the front strut (or shock) & rear shock extension valving set?
Where is the I/C at now?
Do you have good video of the launch you could post?


Before moving the I/C height or length around with the 4-link bars (a major change) I would first think about trying a smaller fine tuning change to help increase wheel-speed a little to help lower the nose. You could try either more/less air pressure, or tighter rear shock extension valving settings, or tighter front strut/shock extension valving settings (and/or less front suspension travel), or add more power.


If after trying the fine tuning path without positive results & you do decide to go ahead & move the I/C, I would at least first find out exactly where it's at now (to use as a reference point) before moving it.

While lowering the top bars at the front/chassis bracket (for a shorter I/C) might reduce the "lifting leverage" way out on the nose of the car, at the same time the shorter I/C should also hit the rear tire harder. If that harder "tire hit" from the increased/faster rear suspension leverage/action ends up increasing traction the wheelstand might actually end up higher.

Didn't dyno the engine but think 800'ish. 523, p51 heads, 13.2 comp., roller cam 280 and 290 @ .050 780 lift, tunnel ram with 2 1000 pro system carbs.
14 x 32 goodyears
tire pressure 9 1/2 to 10 1/4 depending on the track anything lower and tracks cup real bad
front end tight with limiters at 2" drop
i/c not really sure but would think in the 40 to 50" range.
2900 lbs, 3.89 gear. 1.80 powerglide
Right now tire slips maybe 1/4 turn 60 fts real consistent, 2 to 3 ft wheel stands carries about 60 ft.
Wheelie bars at 5"
Whould like to move forward instead of up thinking I am leaving et on the table
So far 9.34 @ 144 , 1.33 60 ft. with 15 headwind at 3400 ft D.A
Sorry no video at this time

I just realized that I forgot to answer one of your questions about the rear shocks. Dont have double adjustable only single some QA1. I beleive that they are set in the middle setting right now. If I stiffen them up that should help with the wheel stand or am I full of it?

Thanks
ED Cutler

hotrod9 wrote:.......Wheelie bars at 5"..........

I didn't realize the car had wheelie bars, hell I would start adjusting there before trying anything else. Wheelie bars are about the quickest way to induce some more initial wheel-speed/controlled tire slippage. You could try dropping them about an 1/8" to a 1/4" at first and see what happens, then work from there.

hotrod9 wrote:...........Dont have double adjustable only single some QA1. I beleive that they are set in the middle setting right now. If I stiffen them up that should help with the wheel stand or am I full of it?

Tighter rear shock extension valving settings (on doubles and singles) can be another a way to help increase wheel-speed/lower the nose by slowing down the rear suspension's separation speed/initial hit speed. But every car is different, like Lee said you won't know for sure what it (or any adjustment) will do until they are tried.......one at a time of course.


You could also try adding a small amount of weight way out on the nose. Depending on the type of car adding as little as 5 lbs of ballast way out on the nose can somtimes have a surprising effect on a car.

Thanks guys I will try adjusting the wheelie bars and shocks first before attemping the 4 link and see what happens
Ed Cutler