Brake Cylinder/Booster

Hi guys,

I´ve just started my first engine project.
Two years ago I restored my ´69 Mustang and put a 429 (stock) in, together with a C6 tranny. I decided to put some more power on the engine.. Lem put me a kit together, SCJ heads, 4.3stroke crank, stealth intake, ~520cui, etc.. whole new engine.
We put out the engine today and tried the new Ford Racing valve covers before.. Clearance between covers and brake booster and master cylinder was less than zero.. My brakes are Ford Racing 11" drums in the rear and SSBC discs in the front. Does anyone use non power master cylinder for street use or does that not really make sense?
Which master cylinder would fit my project (wo booster!)? I´m worried that brake power is not enough..

Thanks
Franz

Post pictures and someone will come up with the booster and master cylinder.

I just have a not too good picture on my phone.. there´s a better one on my camera but I think it will help to see there´s no space for a booster..
There are some master cylinders on the market but I just don´t have any experience with disc/drum combination without booster

A good friend had that same issue with his 514 powered Mach 1.  He used a manual mc and a pair of Moroso valve covers.  His 514 was kinda nasty so there wasn't much vacuum for the booster anyway. Like most guys, you're probably fond of the Ford valve covers, tho.

I run mine on the street all the time with no booster not a problem just requires more pedal pressure (this is dependant on pedal ratio), although I expect your car is a little heavier than mine, if you went to a manual cylinder and didn't like it you could always use a remote booster I believe some of the old BMW 5s had them and I have also seen them new at some classic car websites.

If you go with manual brakes and the vehicle originally came with power brakes, you may want to change the brake pedal ratio. Power brakes have roughly a 4 to 1 ratio whereas manual brakes have at least a 6 to 1 ratio, meaning for every pound of force exerted on the pedal 6 pounds of force is exerted on the internal MC piston. The higher the ratio the less pedal force is needed to stop the vehicle as compared to a 4 to 1 pedal ratio.

aquartlow wrote:If you go with manual brakes and the vehicle originally came with power brakes, you may want to change the brake pedal ratio. Power brakes have roughly a 4 to 1 ratio whereas manual brakes have at least a 6 to 1 ratio, meaning for every pound of force exerted on the pedal 6 pounds of force is exerted on the internal MC piston. The higher the ratio the less pedal force is needed to stop the vehicle as compared to a 4 to 1 pedal ratio.

Or you could just jump on the pedal with both feet and close your eyes and hope for the best  

austin460 wrote:

aquartlow wrote:If you go with manual brakes and the vehicle originally came with power brakes, you may want to change the brake pedal ratio. Power brakes have roughly a 4 to 1 ratio whereas manual brakes have at least a 6 to 1 ratio, meaning for every pound of force exerted on the pedal 6 pounds of force is exerted on the internal MC piston. The higher the ratio the less pedal force is needed to stop the vehicle as compared to a 4 to 1 pedal ratio.

Or you could just jump on the pedal with both feet and close your eyes and hope for the best  

You could be 500 pounds and you still anit stopping. I'd use the Ranger master and change the pedal ratio to 6 to 1. The lines exit away from the motor. You just need to make a plate (or buy one) to mount where the booster was.