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ladder bar question

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Post  dirt_worker November 18th 2013, 11:34 am

I'm considering making the switch from my caltrac/leaf spring setup to ladder bars or four link.

This would be on my street/strip 3800lb shortbed f100 w a pg, 4.10 gears and 900-1000 na hp.

What are the pros and cons of each for my application?
if I went w ladder bars what bar length for a 113-114" wb?
Preferred IC location?

I want this thing to hook on a radial tire too....what do you guys suggest/recommend?
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE November 20th 2013, 4:37 am

Does kinda partly depend on how much time/effort you want to devote to chassis tuning on top of the vehicles intended use/uses.

For a drag-only car a 4-link is more adjustable vs a ladder bar, but not every car out there needs that much adjustability. And it can be easier to get lost in all that extra adjustability. A ladder bar isn't as adjustable as a 4-link, and can sometimes end up being too violent. But can be easier to setup/tune than a 4-link.

For a true street driven car the 4-link is usually a better choice IMO (vs the ladder bar) since it does allow some body-roll to happen (without an anti-roll hooked up). Some amount of body-roll is needed on the street to help reduce the chances of bending/breaking something in the rear suspension from diagonal loading while turning into/out of driveways & parking lot entrances. The ladder bar can sometimes work ok on the street, you just need to be more careful how you drive the vehicle around town.

For a w/b that long that is also using a conventional slick, a 36" ladder bar is most likely a better choice than a 32" bar. And initial I/C length starting point for a 4-link can be a crap shoot at times. Some people say start with the bottom 4-link bar level with the ground, and top bar angled so the I/C falls around 50% of w/b as your baseline setting (and tnt/adjust from there). And other people go with either the "squat/anti-squat/neutral line" theory, or the "C/G percentage of rise" theory to pick an I/C starting point (both are somewhat similar thinking, but not exactly the same).    

The thing that sucks about a true dual purpose car IMO is a street AND strip car is usually always going to be a compromise either direction (most of the time anyway) no matter how it's done.
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Post  dirt_worker November 21st 2013, 1:25 pm

Ok...here's my new plan. I need better rear shocks as it is (currently have SA QA1's)
So I'm gonna upgrade to big gun afco DA's and try what I currently have. I'm hoping the PG will calm things down a bunch by itself. Then if I still can't put the power down ill switch to ladder bars or 4 link then.

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