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Water tank in trunk.

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simpleman
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Post  jbozzelle November 22nd 2009, 3:09 pm

HATER... Very Happy

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Post  richter69 November 22nd 2009, 4:42 pm

Guess I shoulda buffed it off lol.

A side note, dont use thier an fittings, they suck bad.
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Post  jbozzelle November 22nd 2009, 8:05 pm

A friend is finding out all about their AN fittings right now... I plan to use some pushlok stuff so I might be OK, but the fittings for the braided stuff is giving him fits.

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Post  richter69 November 22nd 2009, 8:17 pm

The threads gall up, the Jegs hose is also junk.

Come to think of it the "Jegs" line is prolly just a bunch of Pro-Comp crap.
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE November 22nd 2009, 8:37 pm

Jon, do you think some kind/type of internal baffle(s) inside the tank might be added insurance to help knock any air bubbles out of the moving water? Or does the height of the tank pretty much do a good enough job of fighting trapped air?

The Jegs fittings do seem to gall up sometimes. I think their either not heat treated (or anodized) correctly, or their using the wrong aluminum alloy for the job.
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Post  richter69 November 22nd 2009, 8:49 pm

I set up a "flow bench" of sorts before I put the top on. just dumping the water in the top was a huge mess. If you angled the outlet it made such a whirpool that it would get so strong and pull air to the bottom...........bad deal.

Inside the tank the top fitting has a 90 with a 8" alum pipe pointed at the inlet................result is no turbulance at all. I put another tube on the side in there to induce some swirl......but not too much.

The result is a calm flow of water, you can watch any air bubbles come to the top.

I didnt just throw some stuff together and hoped it would work, I spent 3 days gettin the "mix" just right before i finalized it.
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Post  jbozzelle November 22nd 2009, 11:23 pm

Fabio Engineered.....

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Post  billandlori November 22nd 2009, 11:50 pm

richter69 wrote:The threads gall up, the Jegs hose is also junk.

Come to think of it the "Jegs" line is prolly just a bunch of Pro-Comp crap.

Funny how Jon's posts always lead around to mentioning Pro-Comp isn't it? Maybe he's a closet PC user???? Suspect LOL

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Post  JohnSwenson November 23rd 2009, 10:06 pm

Jon, your tank looks great. That is exactly what I had planned on building this winter, but I doubt if mine will look that professional. Gives me something to shoot for though. Just a couple of questions: 1) is that a CO2 cylinder for a coke dispenser, and 2) is it mounted high enough to keep the water above the water jackets in the head? I may have more hood clearance than you and can get mine a little higher. Otherwise I am thinking about a surge tank like the old Corvettes or Moroso surge tanks mounted above the engine, in addition to a tank like yours.
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Post  richter69 November 23rd 2009, 10:34 pm

I was at the industrial supply cruising and saw this cyl lying in the corner............its an alum oxygen tank.

Cut the bottom off, drilled the outlet out and tapped it to 3/4 npt. Just screwed a - 12 90* fittin in for the outlet.

I used a billet rad cap fitting from Jegs.........20 bucks...thats wahts in the whole tank.

The brackets are leftovers from my accusump......., there is another 3/4"npt -12 90* in the tank, along with a 7/8" X 8" or so alum tube.

Those tanks have a coating on them, some aircraft paint stripper took it right off. I made a fittin and chucked the tank up in the drill press and gave it a polish with a scotchbrite pad.

The placement of the tube and the length of it in the tank is important, if its off a bit the water gets real turbulant.

Used the same 7lb rad cap, overflow is in the trunk where they all should be.............in case it goes over the water is behind the tires.



The outlet from the intake runs uphill a bit into the tank, the rad cap is the highest point in the system.
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE November 25th 2009, 5:22 am

Did different tank water fill heights have an effect on how the water moved once the pump was turned on? Or did fill height not really make any difference?
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Post  richter69 November 25th 2009, 9:07 am

Not with the tube in there.
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Post  richter69 March 7th 2010, 3:42 pm

Got to try it out yesterday, I used the 2 block heaters and oil pan heater to get everything warmed up, unplugged and ran the car a good bit. Never even tried to get hot......but the injection does tend to make one run cooler. To get the water good and hot (200 degrees) I had to plug the heaters back in and run it with the cable pulled out to lean it way out. Does not seem to loose heat very fast either...............this deal should work pretty awesome.

Water tank in trunk. - Page 3 TV10-17-09002-7



It was touched on in the tfs intake thread, I did notice that while it was running the front most runners are warm............due to having the water run through the intake. When I do the manifold swap I will definatly block the passage and put the manifold on backwards.................run me some lines to the top of the tank.
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Post  billandlori March 7th 2010, 5:52 pm

That's a trick looking set up Jon, glad it worked as good as you hoped.

Bill
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