1975 maverick grabber pictures

yes this is mild steel as well ,

im thinking early bumpers ........... but just on the fence i see a few mnaverick here and there , but i have never seen a big bumper maverick drag car .

Maybe there is a reason ha ..weight

jmo. But IF it was mine it would def. have small bumpers.Do what suits you,you will NOT be happy w/it if it doesn't look good too YOU.  

Do what suits you,you will NOT be happy w/it if it doesn't look good too YOU.  [/quote]

X2

if i recall i heard that 1974 when the maverick got big bumpers it was federally mandated for crash saftey ...... prob why they look goofy

Hot little scoot ya got there.   

Some Photoshop fun. Big bumper Mav with stock ride height, and then lowered a bunch........

thanks for photoshop picture
either way having the maverick alone is different   

happy not to own a foxbody mustang anymore

I call foxbody mustangs "me to cars " .......... oh you have one of those cars , me to

Dare to be different

5pointslow wrote:thanks for photoshop picture
either way having the maverick alone is different   

happy not to own a foxbody mustang anymore

I call foxbody mustangs "me to cars " .......... oh you have one of those cars , me to

Dare to be different

I like Foxes but a Mav will be seen less dats true there.

5pointslow wrote:if i recall i heard that 1974 when the maverick got big bumpers it was federally mandated for crash saftey ...... prob why they look goofy

True. Back then then gubmint had everybody hanging refrigerators on the front and rear of their cars, then testing them to see how they'd survive a 5 mph crash.  Pure genius.

I think the big bumpers would look good with the car slammed and tuck them in

on the 1st page 3rd picture ............ to me i feel the a pillar bars are not real tight , or is it just me and is that normal ?

i dont have a pillar trim though so im not sure if they made it tight to the trim.

thanks

if i go .035 steel on floor due to easier to weld i would think , in the rear bulkhead do i go aluminum or or stay steel to the tubs as well ?

Rear section.....

IMO the back section of a back-half car that's (A) not going to see street use, and (B) if you don't care about rock dings, then any panel behind the main hoop that will be pop riveted/Dzused in (tubs, floor, rear bulkhead, etc, etc) gets made of .032" 3003 aluminum with a "soft" bead-rolled pattern imprint (meaning don't crank the siht out of the bead-roller wheel's preload adjuster).

If you don't like rock dings, or if it will see street use, you can do the whole rear floor & tubs in .024" sheetmetal (or thicker if you don't mind the extra weight) instead of aluminum. Even with a steel rear floor/tubs the rear bulkhead can still be made of .032" aluminum (if you want) since it usually doesn't get dings from flying rocks.


Driver compartment......

IMO a "back-half" car (both firewall back and/or main hoop back) does benefit & gain some added strength from a sheetmetal floor & firewall being welded in (.024" or thicker) in the driver compartment. And even if a class, circuit, track (or whatever) rules didn't care if you used aluminum floor in the driver compartment (on a back-half car), I would still at the very least go with steel on the driver side floor just for the added safety.

Agree with Dave. At the very least, you don't want bits o guard rail, posts, other car parts poking your butt should something go bad. The cocoon you sit in should afford the most protection possible. Behind the hoop... Mines steel, and welded, because its what could be done, but aluminum a dzused in for access to suspension and crap... fine.

Mine is all aluminum behind the hoop.the firewall and floor are welded in steel as the 25-1 cert calls for.I really like the panet between the tubbs to come out for easy 4-link adjustments.

i have to make a few calls and see what they will charge to do the firewall , floor and back half with tubs and go from there .......we have all the tools to do this at my old mans shop , but never doing this might as well be easier as having a chassis shop do it

It would be a good time to learn! The steel firewall and floor are good ideas for your safety but may not be required for a specific cert you may be shooting for.

may sound dumb but i see some guys rivet everyting and then some weld the steel ?

whats the ideal ? i would think welding the steel floor but i dont know

Welding builds structure. Rivets invite failure. There is some slack in rivets no matter how carefully you assemble. There is going to be just a little bit of movement which shears rivets and pops panels loose.

cool40 wrote:It would be a good time to learn!  The steel firewall and floor are good ideas for your safety but may not be required for a specific cert you may be shooting for.

kim wrote:Welding builds structure.  Rivets invite failure.   There is some slack in rivets no matter how carefully you assemble.   There is going to be just a little bit of movement which shears rivets and pops panels loose.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^this

kim wrote:Welding builds structure.  Rivets invite failure.   There is some slack in rivets no matter how carefully you assemble.   There is going to be just a little bit of movement which shears rivets and pops panels loose.

You should let the aircraft industry know this.....

If done right riveting can very strong and better than welding on thin metals like aluminum.

I welded mine in....no holes in the cage is best IMO.

i see some guys build and use factory floors still , i have seen on maverick forum some guys mod early mustang floor pans to fit . My thinking on doing this is some of the 10.00 index classes state factory type floor boards .

which to me is bs if its an index its an index tin or factory . still have to run the number , i have been pondering this

will post pics sooner or later of some progress made .....some

BBF maverick bump