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1968 Mustang 200ci 3 speed manual TO 460BB

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Post  1968Mustang February 2nd 2016, 2:50 pm

Hey guys, so I bought this Mustang a few weeks ago and decided I want to drop a big block in it. I already bought a ford 460 from an 1977 F-250. I want to do quiet a bit to this engine to make more hp and torque. I'm already planning on replacing the timing chain and sprockets with better ones to delete the timing retardation, I also want to replace the cam, or do you think the stock cam is any good? I don't. I'm also going to buy a set of C9VE heads to increase compression, does anyone know how much compression this would output going from stock to C9VE 75cc without decking etc..? I want to try and keep the old pistons and Conn. Rods if possible. I'm trying to do this on a low budget. So out of those parts I mentioned, what do you guys think are the best for higher RPM? Set would be great also. Any and all info is appreciated! Thanks.

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Post  dfree383 February 2nd 2016, 3:00 pm

The c9 heads will get you about 9.5 or so

A new cam and lifters is a really good bang fo the buck.
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Post  1968Mustang February 2nd 2016, 3:06 pm

Alright, well that's a lot better than 8-8.5:1, yeah Im going to buy a new cam and lifters, but don't know exactly which cam sets are good for this application. Does anyone know of a good cheap set that comes with a cam, chain, sprockets, and lifters? Individual is ok too, but I don't know what is compatible with each other. Thanks for th e info Free.

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Post  1968Mustang February 2nd 2016, 3:07 pm

Also do the C9VE heads flow any better than the 1977 smog heads?

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Post  1968Mustang February 2nd 2016, 3:08 pm

Besides compression what are some other pros of the C9VE? Thanks

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Post  dfree383 February 2nd 2016, 3:20 pm

Stock flow is pretty close between then, biggest benifit is the smaller chamber.

Down side is loosing the hardened seats.

Cam depends on the rest of the build, what trans? Convertor? Headers? Gearing? Etc.
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Post  1968Mustang February 2nd 2016, 3:53 pm

I want to go with a manual transmission, as long as it won't force me to do a lot of extra stuff and spend a lot more money, if I can't, I'm just going to go with a C6 auto. On the C9ve heads I'm considering buying they are from oreilyauto and they supposedly have new stainless valve etc. to run with unleaded, do you think the seats were redone too?

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Post  1968Mustang February 2nd 2016, 3:53 pm

Yes it will have headers.

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Post  dfree383 February 2nd 2016, 4:13 pm

what kind of manual transmission? That won't be a cheap option unless you already have a bunch of parts.

You need to step back and figure out what your goal is and what youre willing to spend first, before you go buying anything.





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Post  BBFTorino February 2nd 2016, 8:03 pm

Using the C6 will be cheaper and easier. You'll need to upgrade the rear axle and the brakes too.

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Post  1968Mustang February 2nd 2016, 8:07 pm

Yeah, I think I'm going with the C6

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Post  supervel45 February 2nd 2016, 9:34 pm

1968Mustang wrote:Besides compression what are some other pros of the C9VE? Thanks
I would say they are a little easier to convert to roller rockers.

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Post  1968Mustang February 2nd 2016, 9:35 pm

Don't they have no smog crap either, or is that just the block and intake?

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Post  1968Mustang February 2nd 2016, 9:36 pm

So I want to know what cam and lifters set you guys are running? And what's th best model for drag racing?

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Post  dfree383 February 2nd 2016, 9:52 pm

1968Mustang wrote:So I want to know what cam and lifters set you guys are running? And what's th best model for drag racing?

Again how much convertor in the C6? what kind of gearing? Induction, what Intake & carb?

So..... Factory short block freshened up, set of smaller tube headers, a C6

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Post  1968Mustang February 2nd 2016, 9:59 pm

This was a long block, but I want to replace the heads. I have no idea what torque converter I'm going to use yet. I'm going to put an aluminum performer edelbrock intake on it. Not sure of the carb yet. Propably a edelbrock 750cfm

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Post  FalconEh February 2nd 2016, 10:22 pm

dfree383 wrote:what kind of manual transmission? That won't be a cheap option unless you already have a bunch of parts.

You need to step back and figure out what your goal is and what youre willing to spend first, before you go buying anything.






x2 You are too early for the cam and converter part, you should decide your power goals and financial ability, then decide what route you want to take to achieve your goals, once you have decided what you expect from the combination be it now or down the road (real expectation) you will be in a better place to make decisions on the sum of the parts/work involved. if you rush to buy parts not knowing what you want to achieve you will end up with a bunch of mismatched parts that will fall short of your expectations. jmo
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Post  dfree383 February 2nd 2016, 10:31 pm

1968Mustang wrote:This was a long block, but I want to replace the heads. I have no idea what torque converter I'm going to use yet. I'm going to put an aluminum performer edelbrock intake on it. Not sure of the carb yet. Propably a edelbrock 750cfm

Not trying to be difficult! LOL

But those parts are street stuff not drag race items, tell us what your goal is and about how much your willing to spend and we can help you figure out how to get there.
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Post  supervel45 February 3rd 2016, 12:28 am

1968Mustang wrote:This was a long block, but I want to replace the heads. I have no idea what torque converter I'm going to use yet. I'm going to put an aluminum performer edelbrock intake on it. Not sure of the carb yet. Propably a edelbrock 750cfm

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a Holley 850 Double Pump would be a better Street/Strip combination in my opinion. If you go with the C9 heads I would have the valve guides trimmed for a higher lift cam and the pedalstals cut for guide plates so you can run roller rockers, if you want to call it a drag race engine. If you want more of a warmed over truck engine Comp Cams has a non catalog cam Randy helped design with around 226/230 duration and .530" lift that should work really well with the Performer intake and stock valvetrain.

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Post  supervel45 February 3rd 2016, 12:54 am

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-34-244-4 Here is the cam part number.

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Post  supervel45 February 3rd 2016, 12:59 am

http://www.autozone.com/1/products/307491-camshaft-comp-cams-34-244-4.html Same cam but shows .050" duration, it is 222/226 and .535" lift, not 226/230 .530' as in my previous post.

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Post  BBFTorino February 3rd 2016, 1:18 am

Do you have pics of the car??

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Post  1968Mustang February 4th 2016, 12:39 am

Thanks Supervel, very helpful. I do not have a large budget guys, all I really want to replace is the heads with C9VE, the cam, timing gears, chain and lifters; and the rest of a standard rebuild: rings, gaskets, seals etc.. I really just need help picking a good timing set, cam and lifters and any other low budget items. Unfortunately it won't let me post pictures yet, I just tried.

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Post  1968Mustang February 4th 2016, 12:40 am

Besides the heads another $500. Not much more, iI have bills etc.

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Post  supervel45 February 4th 2016, 1:14 am

1968Mustang wrote:Thanks Supervel, very helpful. I do not have a large budget guys, all I really want to replace is the heads with C9VE, the cam, timing gears, chain and lifters; and the rest of a standard rebuild: rings, gaskets, seals etc.. I really just need help picking a good timing set, cam and lifters and any other low budget items. Unfortunately it won't let me post pictures yet, I just tried.
On the timing chain it is my understanding that the late model 94 and up truck chain set is a double roller with straight up no retard gears and are decently priced at the auto parts store. Don't forget you will need the old style rail rockers with the C9 heads.

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