800DP on near stock 460?

I managed to get my hands on an 800 DP holley (4780-2) for my 1983 Carpi. Wondering if it is too much carb, current setup is;

78 lincoln 460 +0.060"
factory cam advanced 12 degrees (4 degrees ahead of pre emission)
D0VE heads rocker studs factory rockers remachined for 7/16" stud
offenhauser dual-port (CJ port size)
GM style HEI
lincoln mark V exhaust manifolds

C6 factory stall

Currently 2.73:1 gears just got a disc brake diff with 3.31:1

For the record I am ridiculously cheap, any wagers on how much I have into the car including the rear air ride new tires and cost of the car?

run it

Your stall and gears may be a problem. If it fries the tires off the line not so much. You can put a 031-035 shooter on the front with a green #290 pump cam in hole #2 on the front and get the full pump shot if needed.

Should work well when you get it dialed in though in my opinion.

Did you open up the Holley yet and check the jet size and power valve condition? If it has set up for a long time the power valve and pump diaphrams are likely junk unless they are the green ones. Stock jets are 70P 85S on that unit with a 6.5PV. With the stock camshaft you may want to try a 8.5 or 10.5 PV.

I havn't opened it up yet, I plan on freshening it up and getting a "stock setup" in it so I have a baseline, I've only put 15 miles on the car in the 2 years I've been working on it right now it has a leaky 600 on it, got to and from work ok.

I have an air fuel meter, and a Vacuum gauge, neither is hooked up right now, I dont have enough exhaust pipe on the car for an o2 sensor to work.

The stock baseline is always a good place to start with the Holley's.

I would get the timing all squared away along with the exhaust also before you did any serious tuning.

Are you going to run vacuum advance?

PS: Take your sweet time rebuilding that Holley, spread it out over 2 or 3 days and clean the hell out of it and probe all the small holes before you assemble it.

yep port vacuum, not sure what my timing is all in, I set the initial at 14.

I have a 4 hole spacer I was thinking of using so that I might be able to adjust the secondary idle.

Thought about putting 2.5" flex pipe as temporary exhaust, working on a log style header- pointing forward muffler over the wheel, exit infront of doors. that isnt in the plan for this year though as much as I'd love it to be.

83Capri wrote: yep port vacuum, not sure what my timing is all in, I set the initial at 14.

I have a 4 hole spacer I was thinking of using so that I might be able to adjust the secondary idle.

You can pull that screw out the base plate and put it in from the top for easy adjustment. With your stock camshaft I would suggest leaving those secondary blades almost fully closed just cracked off the seat.

14 initial sounds good. I guess you are around mid 9/1 compression. I would not get to crazy with the vacuum advance.

Is the vacuum advance canister adjustable inside were the vacuum line goes? Is there a provision to limit the total vacuum advance inside of the distributor?

83Capri wrote: yep port vacuum, not sure what my timing is all in, I set the initial at 14.

I have a 4 hole spacer I was thinking of using so that I might be able to adjust the secondary idle.

I re-read that. If you mean your timing is all in at idle, you likely have the front throttle blades so high it is uncovering the ported vacuum hole in the base plate and pulling the vacuum canister in.

Your stock cam is advanced 12 degrees??....its a wonder if it even runs!! But what do I know, are your pistons & valves not hitting yet??

Its around 9ish:1 CR, I actually havn't checked for an adjustment. stay away from the spacer unless necessary then?

83Capri wrote:Its around 9ish:1 CR, I actually havn't checked for an adjustment. stay away from the spacer unless necessary then?

If you want to try and raise your power band a little you could play with it. I kind of doubt you will see much difference.

I take it you put a multi-key timing chain on it in the 4 degree advance position?

edelbrock timing gear set guy had ran it for less than 3000mi. it was emissions era, set to retarded and out of adjustment by 1 tooth got my advance where I wanted it, I used a degree wheel and intake centerline method, If I remember right my intake centerline was 114

They make the timing sest interesting for the BBF's. I have a Comp Cams High Energy and a Comp Magnum chain set.

The 0 mark on the High Energy looks to be about 4 degree's retarded from the tooth and the Magnum O Mark is dead center on the tooth and keway. At least you took the time to degree it.

Looks like the vac advance is adjustable, How much advance should I be looking at total 35?

83Capri wrote:Looks like the vac advance is adjustable, How much advance should I be looking at total 35?

If you break it down this way it may be better.

14 Initial.

Say 20 mechanical and fine tune to what ever the engine and fuel will tolerate.

Then find out how much more vacuum advance it can stand at light load, maybe 10 or so after the above is dialed in.

Every combination is different.

Are your metering blocks 8551 Primary and 8620 Secondary or do they have 47802 on them anywhere?

If so that's a good start.

83Capri wrote:edelbrock timing gear set guy had ran it for less than 3000mi. it was emissions era, set to retarded and out of adjustment by 1 tooth got my advance where I wanted it, I used a degree wheel and intake centerline method, If I remember right my intake centerline was 114

The OEM cam when not retarded 8 degrees was 193 / 206 with a 113 lsa in on a 110 ICL. With the retarded emissions timing set the ICL was 118. It appears that your cam is advanced 4 degrees from emissions timing and retarded 4 degrees from early straight up timing.




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like I said its been a while since I put it together, it would've been 106 ICL.

metering blocks are 8551 primary with 69 jets, 8620 secondary with 85 jets. Power valve and primary block gasket are missing. pink pump cam

83Capri wrote:like I said its been a while since I put it together, it would've been 106 ICL.

metering blocks are 8551 primary with 69 jets, 8620 secondary with 85 jets. Power valve and primary block gasket are missing. pink pump cam

Does it still have the 50cc rear accelerator pump cover and arm? You can flip the pink cams over if you want a more aggressive pump shot that comes in sooner.

If you have the 50cc on the back and you need more pump shot go to a brown cam.

You can start with the 69/85 jets for your base line and see how it does but I suspect the 69's may be a little lean.

yeah it does still have the 50cc pump on the secondary, a Little lean may be ok I'm at 3500ft or so. I ordered the renew kit for the carb today, I'll pick up some extra carb cleaner and seafoam on monday.

At that elevation you may be pretty close on the jets.

Are you going to run a C6 Kick Down Lever?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252324752293?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This one will work on a Double Pumper with up to 1 11/16" 172 throttle blades also.

I don't have firewall clearance, that was my next item to address, I was thinking of using a cable.