Oil PSI problem

"Not that scarred up." ?? Polishing a crank is not an expensive machine shop operation. I'd recommend you let a machinist look at it. But I get the feeling you've already decided what you're gonna do. Keep cutting corners and this hobby will be very cruel to you. Good luck

OK. I've got some pictures of the bearings and crank.

The rods moved a little from side to side but found out that is common. SO THAT IS GOOD!


The mechanic came to my house and looked at it...he said it all should be ok and just to put it all back on. He said he didn't hear nothing knocking the other day when I drove it.

He said to just put everything back on but clean the whole inside out with carb cleaner...alot of carb cleaner.
Put some new oil and new oil filter on. Drive 20-30 miles and then drop the pan again and clean it out and put some new oil and new filter in and drive it for 2-3 weeks and then change it again and clean out the pan.

Is this a good idea?



Here are the pictures


Rod bearing-has some scratches but looks good



Main cap bearing, 2nd one behind the first cap on the front of the engine


Crank


Oil with metal in it



Oil pan with some dents....got to get them out






[SIZE="6"]WHAT DO YOU THINK!?!?![/SIZE]

looks tight and dirty.....to me.

"looks tight and dirty"


.....................just how Fabio likes it......................

What do you mean tight Lem?


So you think I just need to take the crank out?

after all the screwing around with the carb cleaner and taking the pan off 3 times why don't u just pull the motor and do it right the first time cause i would almost bet the motor prob won't last long if u don't do it right just my 2cents..

So tear my engine completely apart?!?! Take out the pistons!?!

Man that is to much...I probably be better buying another engine that is good.

The mechanic came to my house and looked at it...he said it all should be ok and just to put it all back on. He said he didn't hear nothing knocking the other day when I drove it.

He said to just put everything back on but clean the whole inside out with carb cleaner...alot of carb cleaner.
Put some new oil and new oil filter on. Drive 20-30 miles and then drop the pan again and clean it out and put some new oil and new filter in and drive it for 2-3 weeks and then change it again and clean out the pan.

Is this a good idea?

I'd be finding a different mechanic!

Is this a good idea?

NO!!!!! How many times do we have to say it. Take the engine APART!!!!! Carb cleaner isn't the cure-all!!!!! Do it right!!!!!! Damn, are you deaf????? I'm done.

Lol....I might just find a new engine that is rebuilt and ready

OK I am going to give my opinion take the engine out clean it buy a gasket you can get them around $75 you know you already need rod and main bearings and take the oil pump apart and check it out good and clean it. You don't have to pull the pistons out as long as you are careful and don't let the crank hit the rod bolts,I would get some gas line that will fit tight on the rod bolts push it down to the bottom of the bolt to where it hit the rod itself and leave atleast 1'' sticking passed the bolts pull the crank.Clean everything heads, cam,timimg chain,I mean everything, mark your lifters so you know what lob they go with and clean them good if you leave the cam in you will not get all the grit out of the cam bearings and there goes you oil pressure.I know you don't want to do this you would rather buy another rebuilt engine but think you may have the same thing with it.If you clean this engine and put it back you will know what you have if you buy a rebuilt engine all you know is what you have been told.If you clean your engine I would use brake cleaner dries faster and don't leave a film behind.Just my 2 cents take the way you like but just trying to help but if you want another engine give Scott a call he has one all you would have to do is drop it in.

Jim

I only have $500 to spend. I don't know what that engine that Scott has, has in it or if it is even rebuilt. Is it clean? Any leaks,etc?


So. Here is what to do. Yall correct me.

-Take engine out

-Pull the main cap (mark where each one went)

-Pull the bottom rod bearing (mark where each one went)

-Pull the crank (have polished for $35 at Napa)

-Take off intake manifold and pull each lifter (mark where each one went)

-Take off the flywheel

-Take off the timing cover

-Pull out cam and take out cam bearings

-Buy new main,rod, and cam bearings

-Clean the inside of the engine with carb cleaner? Or basically take heads-----everything apart. Have them vat the engine block for $49?


-Put everything back together

Oh and this is my daily driver so I was needing it to go to work and school.

Dr.Ford wrote:I only have $500 to spend. I don't know what that engine that Scott has, has in it or if it is even rebuilt. Is it clean? Any leaks,etc?


So. Here is what to do. Yall correct me.

-Take engine out

-Pull the main cap (mark where each one went)

-Pull the bottom rod bearing (mark where each one went)

-Pull the crank (have polished for $35 at Napa)

-Take off intake manifold and pull each lifter (mark where each one went)

-Take off the flywheel

-Take off the timing cover

-Pull out cam and take out cam bearings

-Buy new main,rod, and cam bearings

-Clean the inside of the engine with carb cleaner? Or basically take heads-----everything apart. Have them vat the engine block for $49?


-Put everything back together

Spend the $49 to have it tanked. They'll need to R&R the cam bearings anyway.

The cleaner the better, then check clearances with a micrometer and dial bore guage if you can, if not use the plasti-guage, so you know what the clearance between crank and bearings is.