1970 429 CJ rated 370hp... What if???

If I have already replaced the stock intake with a Weiand Stealth CJ intake, replaced the stock ignition system with all MSD Components, replaced the CJ exhaust manifolds with Hooker Super Comp headers, replaced factory iron water pump with Edlebrock high volume aluminum water pump, replaced the Carter X fuel pump with a Holley fuel pump, replaced the Quadrajet with a Holley 780 Street Avenger (Electric choke), and installed Ford Racing plug wires.....

Is my horsepower still going to be around 370 or over the 400 mark with just these modifications?

The DO0E-R heads are getting new Manley valves installed soon and I'm not really wanting the spend any money on porting them as I may decide to sell in the future? What cc are these heads and how will milling them affect that cc?
Will I be able to run 93 octane pump gas with these heads if I keep the stock 429CJ pistons in it? I was under the impression that the valves and seats were what decided if you could run pump gas?
If I have to bore the block at all, I'm leaning towards at least a 460 crank and pistons... (I can't really afford a big stroker build!) The engine block is a 4 bolt main and is a standard bore. What should it be bored to if it needs anything at all? Just enough to clean it up or bigger? Seems like the shop guy I'm with says they usually always go .30 on them to clean up?

I want my Torino Cobra to be street friendly as it may only see a drag strip once every few years? It is a C6 car with 3.70 Traction Lock and I really am not wanting to run a stall converter unless I can find a really good deal on one somewhere $$$???
I have been doing a lot of reading on here and it sounds like the Stealth might not be the best choice for my stock CJ engine? It's already bought and paid for so I'll probably just try to use it...What are the better choices if I decide to sell this one or trade for one?

I know I'm going to need a new cam and lifter set so what are my options there? I'm going to use my stock rockers because I want to keep my factory CJ valve covers and I've heard they aren't tall enough for rollers? The CJ specification Manley valves already ordered for my heads are the step under the Severe Duty ones for roller rockers anyway...

I've talked to a few guys on the phone but can't seem to absorb all the info I'm getting so I'd like to get your opinions in writing here to mull over. Most of you guys have BIG combos so it's hard for me to find the info I'm looking for on my relatively stock build!!!

Sorry for the long post and thanks for all your patience with my engine questions!

Your on the edge with a CJ on pump gas, so I wouldn't mill the heads unless it's needed. Compression is the biggest factor in determining what fuel you can run. The headers will help alot ,and the stealth intake is a pretty good choice for your combo. A convertor around 3500 would be a big plus too(you'll hardly notice it on the street). The carb should help too. You don't want to bore that block any more than you have to, those 4bolt blocks are some high dollar pieces!! The 460 crank and pistons will make alot more torque.You'll be over 400 HP with the headers and intake.You can build a fairly fast "stock type " combo pretty cheap. When you start going roller cam and forged pistons,h-beam rods and stuff...you spend some bucks. Keep it under 6000RPM and drive it on the street mostly and you can make it live good with stock pistons and rods.Good luck with your build!!

Neat build. For the cam I'd do a mild solid lifter flat tappet similar to what came int the SCJ cars but with modern specs. Cam technology has come a long way since then. You may have to change out your head studs for the nonpositive stop ones for adjustment ability unless your heads already are that way. You can still run a stamped steel rocker to use your stock covers if you like. The myth that you will be constantly having to adjust your lash is just that- a myth. I too would go with a mild converter to work with the cam's power band. 3-3500 would pack some wallup into the build for that heavy car yet be very tame on the street. BTW, 375hp Ford clained was considered underated for a stocker '70 429CJ. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Oh yea, keep all the components you take off.... the combo is worth more with all that as extra should you ever decide to sell it.

A 10.5/1 466" SCJ deal would be cool

this motor was in the mustang i just bought. i had it on a chassis dyno and it made 460 at the rear wheels.

460 motor with 1971 cj heads. Heads are profesionally ported as well as the intake. It runs on pump gas, no spray or power adders, as it was built as a bracket car. Fully built c-6 trans. The car has the best of everything. It has run a best of 10.06 @134mph. It 60 foots at 1.34 and is wicked consistent. Great cage work as well as all tin, The suspension is ladder bar rear and tubular control arms and coil over up front, with a mustang 2 manual rack. complete with all electronics.
The mustang leaves super straightand transfers perfectly. I guestimate the motor makes about 525-550 hp calculated from my et's and mph.. Could easily go into the 9's or faster with minor changes.
Engine, trans. and diff are excellent and do not require overhaul. Motor has perfect compresion, holds excellent oil pressure when hot at idle, and shows only 3% leakdown.
The trans is a c-6 with a TCI full manual reverse valve body, Trans break, a 3400 stall tork, has a trans safety sheild, cooler etc. etc you get the picture.
Diff is a 9" with mark williams spool and mark williams 35 spline axles.

My machinist is stingy when boring. He tries to bore them .020 over the first time if possible. You can get extra rebuilds out of that valuable block.

Larry Williams wrote:
this motor was in the mustang i just bought. i had it on a chassis dyno and it made 460 at the rear wheels.

460 motor with 1971 cj heads. Heads are profesionally ported as well as the intake. It runs on pump gas, no spray or power adders, as it was built as a bracket car. Fully built c-6 trans. The car has the best of everything. It has run a best of 10.06 @134mph. It 60 foots at 1.34 and is wicked consistent. Great cage work as well as all tin, The suspension is ladder bar rear and tubular control arms and coil over up front, with a mustang 2 manual rack. complete with all electronics.
The mustang leaves super straightand transfers perfectly. I guestimate the motor makes about 525-550 hp calculated from my et's and mph.. Could easily go into the 9's or faster with minor changes.
Engine, trans. and diff are excellent and do not require overhaul. Motor has perfect compresion, holds excellent oil pressure when hot at idle, and shows only 3% leakdown.
The trans is a c-6 with a TCI full manual reverse valve body, Trans break, a 3400 stall tork, has a trans safety sheild, cooler etc. etc you get the picture.
Diff is a 9" with mark williams spool and mark williams 35 spline axles.

Thats some good #s. What gears and tires do you have.

tires are 33 by 10.5w

gears are 4.56

Stroker Rotating assembly 4.300 x 4.390 (521"), 10:1 compression, modern Soild FT cam and Valvetrain parts, headers and a 950hp on your factory intake and Valve covers (to keep the stock look), good valves and valve job and a little blending. 500+ hp potential all day long. Put the stock rotating assembly or whole short block on the shelf for a stock restoration later. Factory 2 bolt blocks are fine at the level your looking for and cheap.

3.50 Gears
3000 convertor
some sticky street radials and some suspension work.

= a whole lot of fun !!!

dfree383 wrote:Stroker Rotating assembly 4.300 x 4.390 (521"), 10:1 compression, modern Soild FT cam and Valvetrain parts, headers and a 950hp on your factory intake and Valve covers (to keep the stock look), good valves and valve job and a little blending. 500+ hp potential all day long. Put the stock rotating assembly or whole short block on the shelf for a stock restoration later. Factory 2 bolt blocks are fine at the level your looking for and cheap.

3.50 Gears
3000 convertor
some sticky street radials and some suspension work.

= a whole lot of fun !!!

You justs described my next build except it'll have SCJ's.

This past weekend I was at my local race shop that will be building my engine. They pulled the pan and took it all apart while I was there...All of the bearings were in the brass and the standard bore of the cylinders has the typical wearing at the top and I have elected to go ahead and do a .30 over bore. It had forged TRW pistons in it from a previous owner but they weren't installed correctly and were not able to "float" on the wristpin like they should have?

My decision NOW (this week sometime) is whether or not to make it a stroker or just buy a 460 crank and new pistons (using my CJ rods ater conditioning)? After he went through the prices with me, it seems like the stroker kit will only cost me about $600 more to go that route...

What are the advantages and disadvantages of going with maybe the 4.3 crank in my 4000 pound street car (with me in it) and C6 / 3.70 Traction Lock?

I think I stated previously that I am running Hooker Super Comp headers, Stealth CJ intake, 770 Holley Street Avenger carb, MSD-6AL box, MSD Pro Billet distributor and Ford Racing plug wires...

If I'm going to work all this OT at my job to pay for this build, I want to get the most bang for my buck the first time as I'm hoping to not have to go through this rebuild stuff again for many years!

Thanks

IMO dollar for dollar theirs no reason not to do the stroker, if you need to buy pistons and recon everything anyway.

One other change if you go the stroker route would be a 950hp carb instead of the 770.

My builder doesn't have parts at his shop but gets them from his vendors for his builds...

I will check with him to see if the kit he quoted me has the H beams or I beams? Which is better of the two and why?

I am having him build it and will be paying on it over the next several months as I get OT at work when it becomes available.

Thanks