4x4 front axle steering

Installing a lift kit and don't fully understand the geometry going on with the drag link. Do I need to make a pitman arm that drops lower?
If you added a 12-24" lift to the diagram bellow what would need to be changed in the steering, keeping a steering box? (draglink from box to knuckle)

Can I bend the drag link in a S type pattern with the ends paralle to the axle?

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Steering-Systems.htm

Josh,

without knowing what truck you are working on lifting, the best way is with a drop pitman arm. With that much lift, it really plays on what the front suspension is (leaf or coil spring). With leafs you run the risk of being at too much of and angle and hitting the spring. In that case you need to think about moving the drag link to the top of the knuckle. If it's a coil spring, then you need to lower the track bar to keep it in line with the drag link. A little more info would get you a better answer and where to get you what you need.


But to answer your question about bending the link into an s shape, I'd avoid doing that as it will loose a ton of strength and put unneeded stress on the steering parts.

You can't just alter the original, because you will effectively ruin the radius thus changing the amount of steering that you have, not to mention weakening the pitman arm. There are several ways to adjust for the drop that you need, from custom drag links, to several available drop pitmans, and crossover kits that move the drag link to the top of the steering knuckle.

With that much lift I think you will be using both a dropped pitman arm and a custom built draglink.

It's leaf spring suspension and the draglink is all ready attached to the top of the passanger side steering knuckle. Then it has the tie rod that cross's in front of the axle to the driverside knuckle.

I ordered the parts today to make a new draglink. I just don't want a bunch of bump steer and make it hard to turn. Problem is the lift is so great that it is putting the ball joints on the drag link at an extreem angle.

I was wanting to do a equal length triangulated suspension front and rear but I can't think of away to fit the drag link in the mix!

Just a little project I have been working on. The lift is only 6"-8" but in comparison to a full size truck it would be a giant lift.


Here is a picture of the front axle.

Tire size differance.

What makes the drag link problem worse is it's in the middle of the cart.

Hmmm, that changes the whole ball game. You may be stuck with having to cut and extend the "pitman arm"

kjett wrote:Hmmm, that changes the whole ball game. You may be stuck with having to cut and extend the "pitman arm"

That's what I was affraid of, I am thinking of just extending the outter part of the arm down. I wanted to gain as much ground clearance as I could.

If you have a way, you might be able to machine a crossover steering deal to the top of the passenger knuckle then leave the existing tie rod in place. It all depends on how much meat is available on the knuckle itself to work with.

Good point, I can just weld another arm on the existing arm raising it up.

It's hard to tell from the pics. can you take a close up of the passenger side knuckle from the top and possibly the side?

In my opinion you can build a custom tierod that has two 45 degree bends to do what you are wanting here. yes the bends do tend to reduce total strength of the system but you can upgrade the thickness of the tubing to compensate for that loss. This will be your easiest fix.

lghting94 wrote:In my opinion you can build a custom tierod that has two 45 degree bends to do what you are wanting here. yes the bends do tend to reduce total strength of the system but you can upgrade the thickness of the tubing to compensate for that loss. This will be your easiest fix.

I will be using 1-1/4 .120 wall DOM that I have laying around. I just have to finish my lift blocks and I'll take another picture.

Jones using tubing that size i doubt you will have an issue with a bent type drag-link on the cart, a truck would be a different story.

If you put a s in the Tie Rod be sure to put a gusset on it. don't really matter what size dom you use. You should really never cut a Pittman arm. I have seen people do it before but its not really safe. Prob need to do a ram assist to take the some of the pressure off the steering box. If you absolutely have to cut the Pittman arm diffidently do a ram assist to help out.

If I bend the drag link in a S pattern will I still have bump steer problems?

Prob have some but if you do a ram assist prob not a ram is like the ultimate steering stabilizer Even if your running a leaf springs May want to put a track bar with that much lift. Otherwise may still get some front end wobble. If you do a track bar make sure your track bar and drag link or close to the same angle.

maxx dont know if you can see the pics but this is actually on a golf cart just using the truck as a reference.

LOL I just seen the pic. Thanks Guess I should have looked closer.

maxxoffroad wrote:LOL I just seen the pic. Thanks Guess I should have looked closer.

Sorry, it was the best way I could think to explain it. I know ram assist would be great for a truck but I can't waste the power to run a hyd motor.

Worked on the little project yesterday. Whatcha think?



I got to add some traction bars for the front.

Anyone know where I can fine some non exspensive clevis , bushings, rod ends? Everything I have found is $30.00 or more. I could use greasable bushings if I could find some.