What trans fluid to use?

I know alot of you guys say to use the John Deere Hy-gard.

There's 2 choices Regular Hy-gard (30w) and Low Vis (20w). Going to get some today just need to know which one.

Got a PG so how much do I need?

if its dry you and you have an extra capacity pan and a 9inch converter about 8.5 qts. w/10inch about 1/2 quart more.

we use the 20wt with about a qt of trans fluid for color.

I see no reason regular ATF wont work in your application, I'm not a fan of type F, a good MerconV will be fine, or you can run a synthetic. If you find the converter is a tad loose the Hygard (thicker stuff) would help. I hear the Amsoil compressor oil is the bomb.............but expensive.

I run the Schaeffer's Alltrans atf in mine, its been in there since I switched to the glide some 3 years ago...........never been changed.

any good quality trans fluid will do.the hyd oil is ok if you need to get the converter a little tighter or if you hold the trans brake a long time to spool a turbo.

That tighter stuff is not really always accurate. What weight do you think atf is? Amsoil is 20 or 30 on the compressor oil. $30 per gallon. We loved the jd on our nitrous car.

The amsoil atf is badass too. I run that in street cars and have a few customers run it in there racecars including some low 5 rides.

I'll make you guys a very good deal on all of the amsoil stuff if anyone wants it. I can also get joe gibbs stuff too but i recommend the amsoil first. Its better quality.

whatbumper wrote:That tighter stuff is not really always accurate. What weight do you think atf is? Amsoil is 20 or 30 on the compressor oil. $30 per gallon. We loved the jd on our nitrous car.

The amsoil atf is badass too. I run that in street cars and have a few customers run it in there racecars including some low 5 rides.

I'll make you guys a very good deal on all of the amsoil stuff if anyone wants it. I can also get joe gibbs stuff too but i recommend the amsoil first. Its better quality.

i dont know what weight it is but i got 300 less rpm goen to it.i did say a "little"tighter.

I saw about a 200rpm reduction with hygard in my old c4 " converter combo.

okay, I read about some getting that kind of change on YB but on the 6 cars that we tune we saw zero difference. All about the same horsepower as you guys 900-1300hp.

Just go buy some Wolfs Head or something and put it in and change it every race.

By the way everyone talks about how expensive Amsoil compressor oil is so I made a little data base for comparison. Royal Purple atf is $5.25 per quart more or $6.00 more than Amsoil atf.

Its gonna be more important in a car thats on the converter a long time.............like a turbo deal lol. Most of these tranny's in these cars will run on pretty much anything and live.

My little buddy with the 1500+ ftlb powerstroke deal runs the 1.99 house brand atf in his 4r100 I built and it lasts forever.

I'm all for the high end fluids, just in this case regular Mercon V or Dextron will be fine, it it takes a shit it wont be the fluids fault lol.

it may work more for less hp lol.thats why i saw more.

Mike: ATI is selling a synthetic "Super F" trans fluid now. http://atiracing.com/links/pr/superf/index.htm
It's $99 for 12 qts, I was considering buying some to try with my new transbrake in the old C 6. I would
think that it might hold up better than regular type F with a transbrake.
Gary

Fluid for a race 'Glide is always a controversial topic. Finding the ideal fluid takes a lots of time and is very dependent on what type of friction material was used when the trans was assembled. I have two transmissions and have tested several fluids. Just about anything that you decide to use will do a good job. I recently started a test with some new fluids from Lucas. I tend to find it tough to move away from type F completely, F has some good old classic friction modifiers that are not present in Dexron, Mercon and other fluids intended for GM and late model Fords with the less aggressive friction materials. In my opinion, this helps the action of the high gear pack when used with an Alto Red type clutch. The better temperature ratings of the synthetics...Amsoil...Mercon...ect are attractive for BBF applications that have tons of torque and get in to high gear real early...or while on the throttle stop.
If you measure and inspect all of the parts as the transmission is built, keep some notes on maintenance and characteristics of the trans and then inspect and measure eveything upon disassembly, you will eventually learn enough about transmission fluid to get you thoroughly confused.
Use some of the recommendations posted, grab one and go racing! You will be fine.
Keith

I use type "F" exclusively!

I used to until Lenny showed me the insides of a converter that had been running it lol.

I've been running it for over 20yrs in racing glides and have never had a fluid related failure

never said it made um fail, but you sure can tell by the wear inside it was used............stuff makes a great powersteering fluid............

Like I said....this is a controversial topic. Like brand and size of slicks...oils...fuel...air ride seats and CB antennas to Big Truckers... .38cal vs .357 and so on.
We all have our examples to go by.

Wheelie58 wrote:Like I said....this is a controversial topic. Like brand and size of slicks...oils...fuel...air ride seats and CB antennas to Big Truckers... .38cal vs .357 and so on.
We all have our examples to go by.

We ALL know that M&H slicks, Wolfs Head oil, Murphy USA fuel, John Deere seats, Wilson Antenna's, and the .357cal are all the best. What's your point?

Just kidding. You can make a good arguement for any of the tranny oils. I like what the synthetics do for oil life and trans cleanliness. We run the JD stuff on everything that is a mid-horsepower range motor and the Amsoil compressor oil on the high horsepower stuff. On the high horsepower stuff all of the friction modifiers in the JD oil will kill the frictions in the trannys. I just wish our turd was a high horsepower car instead of the mid-range.