Question about a d9te-ab block

I just picked up this block .The casting #is d9te-ab .From my understanding the d9 blocks have extended cylinder bores much like smallblock fords .This one looks like any other early 70s block I have ever seen .Whats up ? Is this an early d9 before the cylinders were extended ? And will a early 70s crank from a 460 fit inside .It is my understanding with the extended cylinder d9 blocks the crankshaft counterweights from the early engines will hit the bottom of the d9 cylinders . Thanks guys .Doug manofmerc

here is a good read on the 385 blocks

https://www.429-460.com/t120-block-info-gathered-by-djohagin

Well I believe I have answered my own question .I tryed to install an early crank in this d9 block .Well It dont fit .The counterweights hit the area at the bottom of the cyl. walls .This is when I noticed that there is more iron at th bottom of the cyls. .I was expecting it to look like a sbf .Live and learn.Doug

Well I believe I have answered my own question .I tryed to install an early crank in this d9 block .Well It dont fit .The counterweights hit the area at the bottom of the cyl. walls .This is when I noticed that there is more iron at th bottom of the cyls. .I was expecting it to look like a sbf .Live and learn.Doug

Hey, Doug: The early rotating system WILL fit in a D9 block, but it requires a lot of grinding to make it work. I'm not sure if it's worth all the effort, but I did it because I had a complete fresh early rotating assembly, and an empty D9 block.

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Did you have your crankshaft counterweights turned down or did you grind the block .I am just curious .I wanted to sell this block with my internal balance crank .But it would be to much trouble for an inexperienced builer .From looking at it with the crank in there it looks like it could be done but the proper thing to do is get the right crank Doug

Hey, Doug: No, I didn't have the crank throws turned down (I would have to pay money for that, LOL). I laid the crank into the saddles as far as it would go, found the first points of interference, grind, lay the crank in again, grind, etc, etc, until it would rotate with no interference. I also hand ground a clearance slot in the rear saddle, and rear main cap to clear the slinger (flange) - I don't ever want to do that again, tedious, and nerve racking! I later found out that the "gentleman" that told me that the slinger should not be removed, didn't have the slightest idea what he was talking about! I found out (too late) that the acceptable practice is to have a machine shop remove said flange, and you're good to go!

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Wayne no one can say you are lazy now can they .I can see where you could fit this crank in the block but I just want to sell it really .From my observations it is beefier than a d1 block .When I first got it I thought it should look like a sbf .As they say live and learn .What vehicle do you have with a bbf ?I own a 67 comet dragcar with 466 c6 .It run a 7.26 in the eighth on a cool day .11.30 @ 118 in the 1/4.After grinding the crank slinger down did your rear main seal leak .And did you get this engine running?Thanks again.

Hey, Doug:
Other than the cylinders being a little longer, I don't think the D9 block is any beefier than a D1. My original reason for doing what I did was that I did a total rebuild of a D1 block (should have had it magged). It had a complete fresh internal balance rotating assembly. Immediately after getting it fired up, I had a bad rear main leak, and low oil pressure, so I replaced the rope seal with the later style seal, and it still leaked. After the third and final attempt at a new rear main seal, I disassembled it completely, and found out that the rear main saddle had a crack running through the oil hole (should have had it magged)! It was literally pissing oil on to the floor, as well as back into the oil pan! Around the same time, I spotted an ad for brand new bare D9 blocks on sale, so I bought one, thinking this is going to be an easy fix (NOT). This is when I found out about the clearance issues I was facing, the rest is history. The clearancing of the block was done about six years ago, and has been trouble free since. The engine is in my 30 Ford Model A coupe street rod, it's just a street cruiser, so it's never been on the strip. The only problem I'm having with the car now is a nagging oil leak in the C6 transmission, it's leaking around the shifter shaft where is passes through the transmission case. I replace both seals, and it worked for a while (six months) now it's leaking again worse than ever! My other toy is a Pro Street 50 Ford Club Coupe with a 545 roller motor, and a Lenco ST1200 5 speed. It too hasn't been on the track (yet), but it is quite the "street bully"! Sorry for being so "wordy".

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Wayne I have had the same leak on my c6 but never one that leaked as bad as you say yours does .That isnt an easy job in the car either .But it can be done I have had to do the same thing .The d9 block looks stronger with the extended cylinders .But like you said in reality not much better than a d1.You must be a street rodder guy .I bet whenever you show all the sbc chevy guys your car it blows there mind .You just keep at it !Thanks for the responces .Doug

I decided to freshen up the C6 since it's currently out of the car. I bought a TCI kit from Summit, it's advertised as containing ALL the seals, and gaskets, as well as a new band, clutch pack, etc, BUT there's no shifter seals in the kit (GREAT)! I guess "all" doesn't really mean all, I guess I will have to get them locally.

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Wayne I cant believe they chumped out on those seals .I go to my local trans parts supplier for my parts .I have found that they have the same clutchs and steels that come in the tci kit and it is cheaper .And all the gaskets and seals will be in the kit .Look if you want to I will send you one of the shifter arm seals .I believe I have at least one extra .Let me know and this is no charge .Just get your address to me and I will put it inthe mail .Doug

Doug: Thanks for the offer, but a gearhead buddy of mines son works at a tranny shop, and offered to get me the seals for free. He said that they they very seldom ever bother replacing them on a tranny rebuild, and have them "laying around". If I remember correctly, there's two seals involved, the lesser one being nothing more than a "O" ring. The last time I had the tranny out, was to replace the stock convertor for something with a little more stall, I replaced the front pump seal (wasn't leaking, but replaced it anyway) now it leaks (can't win), and I replaced both seals on the shift shaft because there was minor seepage (should have left that alone, as well - LOL)! Thanks again for the offer. Have a great July Fourth!

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Yep you have that o ring for the kickdown and the one in the case .Wayne why dont you ask this tranny guy where they get there transmisson kits ? All tci does is repackage the clutchs steels and such .Then they mark the price up .The place I get my parts has the same red alto clutches that come in the tci kits and the price is about half of what you pay tci.Happy fourth to you Doug

Hey, Doug: This is kind of like "coulda, shoulda, woulda", as I had already bought, and paid for the TCI kit well before finding out that my buddies son was working at a tranny shop - "oh well"! Hope you had as good a time as I did on the fourth!

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Well the next time at least it wont be coulda woulda shoulda .Maybe it will be I dida disa differenta way ! Well good luck on your tranny build anyway .All will be good .And I did have a good time on the fourth .We went to my wifes familys home and did the normal eating and having a few beer .Carry on young man.Doug

8/13/43 ------- young man --- NOT, but I DO "carry on" (LOL) !

Wayne