foot brake racing

I foot brake my fairlane and it is hard to leave at anymore than around 2200 rpm. I have non power brakes and 11 inch single piston disc brakes on the front and 2 1/4 drums in the rear. A friend of mine says to put a dual caliper rear disc brake setup on the rear for more holding power. When foot braking I would love to be able to get 3000 rpm at launch. The stall on my converter is around 4500 I believe. It weighs 3510 with me in it and has run 10.20 at 133. But usually runs around high 10.20's to low 30's on each pass. Any opinions as to whether this will help? A single piston rear disc brake setup is well within my budget but right now the dual piston is kinda high for my expenses. Does the dual piston rear have that much more holding power?

do u have a proportioning valve that can be adjusted drum brake have a lot of holding surface u may need 2 up the pressure to the rear

57custom wrote:I foot brake my fairlane and it is hard to leave at anymore than around 2200 rpm. I have non power brakes and 11 inch single piston disc brakes on the front and 2 1/4 drums in the rear. A friend of mine says to put a dual caliper rear disc brake setup on the rear for more holding power. When foot braking I would love to be able to get 3000 rpm at launch. The stall on my converter is around 4500 I believe. It weighs 3510 with me in it and has run 10.20 at 133. But usually runs around high 10.20's to low 30's on each pass. Any opinions as to whether this will help? A single piston rear disc brake setup is well within my budget but right now the dual piston is kinda high for my expenses. Does the dual piston rear have that much more holding power?

Dang! That's scootin with that thing...

quick 52 wrote:.............drum brake have a lot of holding surface...................

Yea, years ago a number of the foot brake guys around here were saying that drum brakes held the best on the starting line. I guess it's because drum brakes large surface area was holding better "cold" vs the disk brakes smaller surface area when cold. But disk brakes will always work better stopping a car on the top end at speed because their smaller surface area heats up fast, and heat is what the disk pads semi-metallic material needs to work at it's best.

you ever thought about trying a line lock on all 4 corners? You could even hook a 2step up to your brakeswitch and still be legal. The 2step would make it much easier to get the rpm's up and it'll flash the convertor.Just a thought.

I foot brake also I have tried to pull up on the converter but my best 60' time is 1.42 leaving off idle mine idleing at 1000rpm I have a recall tach when I nail it the tach jumps to 4500rpm might be something you might try to see how your car like it.

here so will have to try some of them when the season starts up here in Mn. Which is coming up shortly. Best 60 ft so far is after I put new QA1 front shocks on it was 1.43 now over the winter i have installed new QA1 's on the rear so will have to see if that helps it any. Thanks guys. I see a picture of a 55 t bird on one of the rsponders. Did you attend the first big block Shootout? I was there and had a very good time. The track owner was very accomadating.

I also foot brake my car and get better 60 ft's with the lower staged RPM, right at 2000 in my case. If you want beter rear brakes you might start with the new Baer SS4 brake which is four piston and holds really well at the starting line. The caliper bracket is set-up for dual calipers, so if you really want to in the future you could make that upgrade but you may need a different master cylinder due to the large difference in total piston volume. The dual caliper setup is usually used by guys who need to spool high power turbo combinations.