motor wrap help

Ive got to come up with a temporary solution to my motor wrapping up when on the skinny pedal. This winter I plan on putting some motor plates in but Ive got 2, maybe 3, more races this year to get me by. This bad boy is moving and shaking and causing the header to hit the steering shaft.

Whats the opinion of a chain from the frame to the driver side head? It seems like Ive read it will distort the head and lose power. Other options?


stock block 521 and TFS streets in a mud truck

A chain might be OK as a temporary crutch. Sure have seen a lot of people doing it over the years so it might not be too much of a problem. There might be some concern on an aluminum head of a single shear mounted bolt hurting the threads or breaking off a threaded boss.

how about bolted to the water pump?

are the motor mounts busted now? why is it moving?

they arent busted, they just dont hold the motor.

heres what Ive got
http://www.landlproducts.com/list.aspx?cID=3

I bet if you get them out they will almost fall apart I would try replacing them first. dont know that i would try the chain on an aluminum head unless you make a plate to use at leat three bolt holes.

not doubting you but its moved this way since I broke the cam in.

Before I spend another $100 on motor mounts Ill buy a motor plate. Im just trying to limp through the rest of the season so I can fix it correctly.

Lots of folks use the strap/chain from the driver's side head to the frame or sway bar mount. I would use a bolt closer to the intake, not the one right at the outside edge by the exhaust flange. Fab'ing up a plate to use all three holes would be ideal.

Bill

The first time i installed my motor on stock mounts(used) it was moving and jumping all the time bought new mounts and it stayed still for about 1 yr before it started moving again. at that time i went to solid motor mounts and ran them for 3 years and went to front and mid plates this year cant really tell adifference between solid mounts and plates except I can no longer run any front accessories with the way i made my plates. I would recommend using soild mounts they are inexpensive to make or you can buy them on e-bay pretty cheap(less than $100).

Thanks guys.

Kris, could you get a factory mount from a '83-ish truck to work? They are a little bigger and if I remember correctly, use 2 mounting studs. Just a thought, Chris

Solid mounts sure would make things easier than motor plates so I think, for now, thats going to be the plan for the winter.

Im not sure if the later poly mounts would work but Id be willing to bet they'll still let the engine move and shake a good bit.


I guess I could always go slow so the headers dont hit the steering shaft

Kris, what year is your truck...? I'm going to a front engine plate next year, so I won't be using my solid mounts...








Doug...

Its a 79 Doug. I wonder if they'll work?

If I cant find something used or cant make something myself, Im thinking about trying a set of these from Transdapt. It doesnt give a year range, only Fseries and Bronco, but they look exactly like my L&Ls only solid.
http://www.tdperformance.com/products/?id=3286&iset=7626&rsku=


Any thoughts?

If you can Kris, I'd take yours to a machine shop with a good oven and have them bake yours for a few hours and burn the rubber out of them... Then I'd just weld them up yourself... That's what I did with mine...




Doug...

Back in the day I just used a tube with some heim ends on it, tightened it up till the slack was gone.

If your worried about the head get a steel plate to solid bolt to a couple of the thread bosses in the head, weld a mount to it for the rod.

I wouldnt want a chain or anything that will have slack, its like the motor will get a run at it when it torques causing a shock load.

so better to stress it (heims taking up all the slack) than letting a certain amount of chain be its limiting factor?

Makes sense.

Hopefully Ill have enough time to make some things happen. If not, well Ive run it this way since March.

I did that years ago on my '70 'Cuda... I just used a small turnbuckle to take up all the slack so it didn't have any movement... It made a world of difference...








Doug...

Pull the driver side motor mount and if it doesn't fall apart drill it and put a 1/2 bolt and nut thur it. It works for me.