sft or hydraulic roller

Pros and Cons of sft or hydraulic roller for street engine . Thanks for ur thoughts

outbackbbf wrote: Pros and Cons of sft or hydraulic roller for street engine . Thanks for ur thoughts

Hydraulic Roller ...
Pros =
there will be no "break-in" required. Maybe higher maximum lobe lift.
Cons =
everything except the no break-in needed and lobe lift.

Solid flat tappet...
Pros =
COST; More power; Less valve lift and aggressiveness absorbed within the valve train; RPM potential much higher; no special distributor gear material; (did I already say MORE POWER...?)
Cons =
a good "break-in" regimen required which might require slight valve adjustment after break-in which is done anyway if valve spring presure adjustment is made.

on my small block i cranked my 302 hydraulic roller 7800

johndickjr wrote:on my small block i cranked my 302 hydraulic roller 7800

This is a BIG BLOCK site ... a whole lot different than what works with a small block.

rmcomprandy wrote:

johndickjr wrote:on my small block i cranked my 302 hydraulic roller 7800

This is a BIG BLOCK site ... a whole lot different than what works with a small block.

My Hydraulic Roller worked pretty well in EMC last year.

With the right parts (read expensive) the hydraulic roller stuff can be made to work just fine to 7000+ in a BBF

I see no down side other than cost over a solid flat tappet.

dfree383 wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

johndickjr wrote:on my small block i cranked my 302 hydraulic roller 7800

This is a BIG BLOCK site ... a whole lot different than what works with a small block.

My Hydraulic Roller worked pretty well in EMC last year.

With the right parts (read expensive) the hydraulic roller stuff can be made to work just fine to 7000+ in a BBF

I see no down side other than cost over a solid flat tappet.

Just a correct installation in order to perform well is ten times more involved.
I believe a strict maintenance schedule would only make it become equal in performance.  Now, drive that engine for 10,000 miles and you will probably change your mind because of that needed maintenance.

If I was looking for it to last I wouldn't be revving it over 6000 and I would not want .800+ lift either.

Correct springs and parts..... And have realistic expectations for rpm and cam specs

If you are building a daily driver pickup truck you don't want crazy cam specs and spring pressures that are run on high maintence race engines.

rmcomprandy wrote:[

Just a correct installation in order to perform well is ten times more involved.
I believe a strict maintenance schedule would only make it become equal in performance.  Now, drive that engine for 10,000 miles and you will probably change your mind because of that needed maintenance.

Hi all and thanks for  ur thoughts, Randy, are you refering to an SFT?, Which of these is going to be more durable with correct maintenance? Does an hydraulic FT, or solid roller get a look in?

outbackbbf wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:[

Just a correct installation in order to perform well is ten times more involved.
I believe a strict maintenance schedule would only make it become equal in performance.  Now, drive that engine for 10,000 miles and you will probably change your mind because of that needed maintenance.

Hi all and thanks for  ur thoughts, Randy, are you referring to an SFT?, Which of these is going to be more durable with correct maintenance? Does an hydraulic FT, or solid roller get a look in?

 
A Solid Flat Tappet Camshaft is what you wanted compared, right?
To me, a solid flat tappet valve train is the best compromise for any street vehicle or pleasure type marine engine; no matter how much is expected for power level.

A correct hydraulic Flat Tappet will be the most trouble free if broken-in correctly however, it will probably make the least power.

It is all about YOUR priorities.

Yes an SFT was my question, it wasn't until after id posted that I thought of the others . Thanks for ur input .