SN95 mustang 501 BBf engine clearance issues 1st time install

Finally on the install stage of this build. I installed engine 1st time and it was a no go. I knew it wouldn't go first time and was wondering what others done in my situations. Please read and comment . My build consist of a 460 block (501) TFS cobra jet style street head. New Trickflow 4500 intake. Accufab 2 1/8 header . QA1 K member with sb mounts. S@W profiled front plate and steal midplate. TH400 with Ultra bell. Bolts directly to engine. I install the engine and it seemed to sit high to me. Actually the best I could do is it would sit almost on the flaming river rack or on it. Once sitting low as it could go there was about two more inches between the k member and pan. I would really like to lower the engine more to free up to room up top. I have a 5 1/2 inch high cowl hood and need all the space I can get for a spacer plate and air filter. The pan is a Moroso 20625. Its the correct piece for this app. The headers were into the k member on both sides but I believe all can be fixed with a grinder. I think the final limiting factor is going to be the header .

With a QA1 k member the steering sits on top if you need more room find you a team Z member the rack is below it

I've got a Fox and used a 2.5" dropped k-member from PA Racing with the Pinto rack. Pan sits right on the rack. Was enough to lower the engine, swing the trans up to point at the pinion (to get the driveline pretty much straight with 32" tall tires) and it also tucked the headers up nice too...

Your rack is the limiting factor. After that it's the cross tube in the k-member... If I was doing it all again I'd use that k-member that puts the crossmember out front of the crank and uses the Stiletto rack. Allows you to use a full length/depth oil pan too.

It sits high no matter what and the kooks will have to be cut or they drag.

My Kooks tucked up nice and tight once the tailshaft was raised to point directly at the pinion. But I was only able to do this since my trans tunnel is removed.

They do hang low in a car with the stock floor and tunnel.

Update. Engine and trans back out. Next time I put it in I will install both bolted together . I removed the steering rack. There is a offset bushing on the rack that I discovered which will allow .40 inch of adjustment down. Next I will do some grinding on the QA1 k member. I compared mine with a newer one and it appears QA1 corrected to clearance issues on newer units or mine really isn't a QA1 since I didn't build the car entirely. I would like to get the engine to sit an inch or less from the K member but the limiting factor will the the headers . That's where it will get bolted up.

Royce, any good update

I used a Team Z K-member and motor plates. I put a piece of wood of top of the k-member and made the motor plates. It sat a lot lower than I ever imagined. All I needed was a short cowl hood and a manual brake master cylinder. They also make a billet adapt that will move the master cylinder over for more clearance. This was with a c6 too.

Update I spoke to a fellow member which helped me a lot by phone and no engine sits an inch higher at 5 degree angle. Headers don't hit and now I can bolt up to the AJE trans cross member. Thanks Michael for your help. I bought a Hobart 190 mig machine but not here yet. The engine is sitting in bay bolted to the front mount sitting on frame where it will live.

Sounds like you got it going your way now... let me know if I can help with anything else