foxbody anti roll bar issue i noticed today ? any input

well i was looking under the fairmont and noticed today the anti roll bar moves up and down but seems to be tight or very snug

i would say it would move as needed under power , but it doesnt drop or if dis connected . It looks to be a upr unit and has either Delron or nylon bushings


not sure if this is a major issue ? should this move or free spin if disconnected by hand ?
id rather not remove and install a new one


and yes i sprayed the bushing and it helped very little

everything in the suspension should be free. those cheapo units that use plastic bushings wear a lot faster and get stuff in a bind. Thats why we switched to bronze bushings.

5pointslow wrote:well i was looking under the fairmont and noticed today the anti roll bar moves up and down but seems to be tight or very snug

i would say it would move as needed under power , but it doesnt drop or if dis connected . It looks to be a upr unit and has either Delron or nylon bushings


not sure if this is a major issue ? should this move or free spin if disconnected by hand ?
id rather not remove and install a new one


and yes i sprayed the bushing and it helped very little

Jeff had one of those dinky ones too, and it was broken on an arm when he pulled it out to replace it with a HD 4 arm setup. Worked well he said no more BS Crooked launch's.

This car doesn't need an outlaws 4 arm setup if that's what ya referring to .

I know the upr one is no were near as nice as others..maybe they are more smug not sure...going to run as and find out

We are talking 600hp 10 second car ...the bars in there straight ,it just doesn't feel as free as I thought

Car was and had been low 9s with prevous owners engine combo

run it.

I think that 4 arm crap is a bunch of junk anyway. The TRZ setup with billet ends, our shop setup with billet ends, Team Z arb, or for the double throw down stuff we make a real bad boy but it's $700.

At end of the day this is a 10.00 to 10.50 index car nothing crazy

I'm sure what's there is fine just was second guessing

whatbumper wrote:run it.

I think that 4 arm crap is a bunch of junk anyway.  The TRZ setup with billet ends, our shop setup with billet ends, Team Z arb, or for the double throw down stuff we make a real bad boy but it's $700.

He got a good deal on it from another member and it was a lot nicer then the POS he took out that's for sure. I just used it as an example. I say give it a shot too and see how she goes. His broke a bolt through the arm actually I believe, but still looked like a POS none the less I thought.

PS: I had no idea what 5Points had by his post, " Key Words " where { Thinks Thought Was }
it may be a great unit, kind of hard to know without knowing what it is for sure, meant if it was a cheap street one.

went under the car the part # thats on it references this

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-anti-roll-bar-kit.html


but hard to tell ....appears i have delron bushings or nylon and the new one shows a roller bearing
Same part # though unless there was a change


is what it is for now ...going to run it if it give me trouble i will change it out for a team z or somthing , if i was running crazy hp or running a x 275 heads up class i would dick with it .

class im running in im sure some are not eve running one

same setup just with a milder bbf in it

HaHa Looks like he drug that little orange tin can down. Looks like it works pretty good to me.

I'm not a fan of the roller/needle bearing anti-rolls. Doesn't take much dirt, or misalignment/chassis flex to bind them up. Either a plastic or bronze bushing, or a spherical bearing is the way to go IMO.

I understand that roller bearings are not the way to go because of the very limited movement of the arm. This only allows a partial rotation of the needle bearing which only allows it to wear in one part of the bearing causing it to flat spot and bind. Not sure how true it is but it made sense to me.

dr's wife racing wrote:I understand that roller bearings are not the way to go because of the very limited movement of the arm. This only allows a partial rotation of the needle bearing which only allows it to wear in one part of the bearing causing it to flat spot and bind. Not sure how true it is but it made sense to me.

about the roller bearings. kind of like my dad has told me a bunch in my life. That's a good idea son but it just wont work. LOL

I have the TRZ Bronze bushing under housing unit on my '87 notch. After about 15 passes, 600 street miles, 150 of them in the rain, it went from smooth easy movement to stiff and sticky. It's easy to remove and service which is why I went that route. When I pulled it apart I was surprised how much dirt and grit it had picked up. I cleaned it out, hand greased it and then used the grease gun on the included zerk fittings. Nice and smooth again. Now I know I have to go through this after each Drag Week type event.