Rim screws... pain in the d**k

Anybody have any tips or tricks as to how to install rim screws on a tubeless slick so that it don't bleed off a bunch of air pressure overnight? I just mounted up a new set of ET Drags. I use Liquid Nails silicone on the screws an run them in quick with an electric impact to get them to bite into the bead hard & quick. I found installing them with a socket wrench is too slow and the slick will often barely push away from the rim and I can hear it seeping air past the bead. Is there a better way?

what do you have the tire aired up to? when i do rim screws i put a little more air in the tire just so the tire is on the bead good.

air up up the 30 psi, I use a 1/4" air ratchet, if the screw goes in at the srong angle it can get betweeen the rim and the bead and force the bead outwar causing the leak you describe. Start the screw at a angle more away from the rim if that makes sense.

Makes sense. I will try it. Thanks.

Yea, cranking up the air pressure before installing the screws does help, as does using the air ratchet.

Over the years there has been some debate on the best size to drill the holes in the rim though. Some people think using a small enough hole so that the screws bite/thread into the rim along with the slick is ideal, & others think a bigger hole in the rim is ideal so that the screws only bite/thread into the slick. Just depends on who you talk to.

I guess I was doomed from the start. I only had about 20psi in them when installing the screws. I had them mounted at a local tire shop because I don't have access to the equipment myself. I don't know if the kid used any type of lube on the rim or not. I suspect he didn't. Next time I will baby sit the mounting and be sure the rim is soaped and air pressure is bumped up to 30psi in prep for me getting them home to do the screws.

I just followed the instructions on the rim screw package when I installed them for the first time early last summer. My rims are now threaded for the Moroso screws. After running in/out several of the troublesome ones a few times, I got the slicks to finally hold air overnight.

Thanks all for the advice. Next time I'll be better prepared knowing these tips.

No soap on the beads, I always install them dry. The dishsoap is for the insides of the slick, so they will hold air tubless.

Unfortunately M/T's are prone to leak down pretty quick anyway!

BigDave65 wrote:Unfortunately M/T's are prone to leak down pretty quick anyway!

you will wore a air compresser out pumping up a M/T that why i run hoosier

Not if you use the dish soap................

Yea, Coat the inside of front and rear tubeless w/soap and be leak free

Screws? Screws. Don't need no stinkin screws.

No screws in years. Door cars or dragsters. I may have to do something soon though. Mine's working the tire pretty hard. Screws may be needed to help with the tire wadding up.

For no screws I follow this little tip. Soap the tire as described above. After getting the tire on the rim, but before you seat the bead with the tire machine, wipe both the tire bead and wheel lip down with acetone. Seat and inflate as normal. The tire may move 2-4 inches on the rim in the first couple of passes, but after that it's stuck. Not gonna move. Your tire guy will cuss you for it the next time he tries get get them off the rim. The bead will be stuck.

The rim screws should not be long enough to get through the tire. You just want them through the rim threaded of course and long enough to get through about half the thickness of the tire bead. If you go all the way through you can put all the pressure/glue/threadlocker you want in the tire and it will seep through the threads. I race every single Saturday and a lot of 3 day events and check the tire pretty steady if first put on the rim. After I verify I have no leaks for some time I may if even then check in the pits during warm-up/time trials. After racing begins I never check between rounds or overinflate and drop down in the staging lanes.........those guys are helping themselves be less consistent or have leaky tires and trying to minimize the time for leakage. Think about it keep on inflateing, let air out, inflate, let air out over and over again then give both tires the same air pressure at the end of the season and compare the roll-out measurement like you did at the start of the fresh tires........you will be surprized at the results. Difference between tires I mean left vs right at the beginning and left vs right at the end. Not left at first vs. same left at end because you will loose a little meat from the burnouts. Also rotate tires from side to side and re-measure rollout often.

I haven't tried these yet but, I'm gonna. Supposed to be the best thing next to getting beadlocks.
Anyone tried these?
http://www.kaizen-ms.com/TireScrewsandInserts.html