Rear Sump oil pan question

I need a rear sump oil pan that has a front section no deeper than 5". Right now I have the Canton but the front is 6.25" and the oil pump is in a location where I could only cut about 1/16 off the bottom which isn't going to help.

If there aren't any ready made can someone suggest a fabricator who builds custom oil pans?

Happy Easter and thanks,

dry sump?

cobralcon wrote:I need a rear sump oil pan that has a front section no deeper than 5". Right now I have the Canton but the front is 6.25" and the oil pump is in a location where I could only cut about 1/16 off the bottom which isn't going to help.

If there aren't any ready made can someone suggest a fabricator who builds custom oil pans?

Happy Easter and thanks,

what are your plans for a shorter oil pump ? don't think there is one. short of dry sump , cut your pan to whats needed , get a external pump and pick up .

DanH wrote:

cobralcon wrote:I need a rear sump oil pan that has a front section no deeper than 5". Right now I have the Canton but the front is 6.25" and the oil pump is in a location where I could only cut about 1/16 off the bottom which isn't going to help.

If there aren't any ready made can someone suggest a fabricator who builds custom oil pans?

Happy Easter and thanks,

what are your plans for a shorter oil pump ? don't think there is one. short of dry sump , cut your pan to whats needed , get a external pump and pick up .

I know nothing about dry sump and was under impression they were for racing. My car is for street driving. Would that be an issue?
Thanks,

Hal, they're talking about an external wet-sump system. You would still use the oil pan as the reservoir, but the pump is belt driven like the rest of the accessories.

It would allow shortening the front of the oil pan where the pump would normally go.

Here is a thread I started on the subject https://www.429-460.com/engine-tech-f2/which-external-wet-sump-pan-do-i-need-t2323.htm

and another https://www.429-460.com/engine-tech-f2/belt-driven-oil-pump-non-dry-sump-t487.htm


Here is a pic of one, but disregard the pan. It looks like it's for a chassis car

That's Ken Herbert's dragster engine that JBB and I did a few years ago.

ext belt drive wet sump deal...................I see no reason one can't run it on the street. pump dont care if its in the pan or not.

External pump sounds like the only option, unless you can relocate the obstruction, or raise the motor slightly. You have any pics?

Dry sump is a great option to but can get expensive and the tank and hoses can be a pita.

Thank you all for your excellent and quick "education". As I said, my experience and knowledge were close to zero about pumps and pans and at least now I know what I need to know to make a reasonable decision.

While the external wet sump pump is attractive in one sense there is a more practical solution I'll take, at least for now. defree 383 pretty well nailed it when he said, in part ".....or raise the motor slightly." I guess all I need do is raise it to where it was and keep it there.

This all came up because the engine was moving and I'm eliminating the motor mounts and going with motor plate, mid plate and torque limiters on each side. That should keep the engine in place and 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch above the R&P rack. The engine moving down caused the problem in the first place when it contacted the R&P rack with the bottom front of the oil pan.

At least I understand what needs to be done if for some reason the motor plate solution fails to work but I have high hopes that corralling the engine is a fix! Guess I'll find out real soon! Engine is out and motor mounts are cut out so it won't be long.

Thanks again to all for your help and insight, it is appreciated,

Hal R

With the engine mounted solid like that, make sure the transmission mount is flexible, whether it be rubber or poly mounts. Just make sure everything isn't solid.

Nevs wrote:With the engine mounted solid like that, make sure the transmission mount is flexible, whether it be rubber or poly mounts. Just make sure everything isn't solid.

Thanks, that part I do understand but I don't mind being reminded, for sure

I don't need any cracked or busted tail sections

Hal R

Hal, when is she supposed to be back on the road?

And another question (which I think I asked before ), why didn't you just use solid motor mounts?

windsor wrote:Hal, when is she supposed to be back on the road?

And another question (which I think I asked before ), why didn't you just use solid motor mounts?

The plan I mentioned is being implemented but here's a recap:

First of all if I used solid motor mounts and still had a problem then I would have had to go the motor plate, mid plate, torque limiter route so I decided to skip what could have been an interim "fix" and go the whole way and be done with engine movement.

Second point is to have oil pan to steering rack clearance and the motor plate etc. fix provides that. Not a lot but enough as long as the engine stays where we put it. It will.

Also need to fix the potential for bump steer due to angle of steering rack rod ends. Got some Baer steering rod ends that are adjustable and installing them and new springs while the car is down. Car weighs 2040 in front with me in car so I went with the QA1 coil over spring that is rated at 700 lbs which is their strongest coil over and for cars more than 1750 or so.

Couple of electrical issues to sort out, not a big deal (grounding stuff I think) and then back to paint shop for all the tiny "fixes" where there was trash, dings, etc. at which point it will be ready to show and drive or drive and show once again.

I know you asked "how long?" but I can only give you a feeling not a definite time table because I do not have complete control. My feeling is about 2 more weeks and it may creep into 3 and probably will as things have gone so far.

My next committed show is May 21, the Nashville Goodguys but I'd like to have the car ready for show preping at the end of April so I have plenty of time with rags, cleaner and polish well ahead of time.

Hal R

Makes sense to me! Nobody can second guess you wanting to do things in a way that will permanently fix your issues.


That's the same weekend as the BBF Bash in KY...you could do both since you'll be right next door! Good luck with getting the Cobralcon up and running ASAP!

cobralcon wrote:

DanH wrote:

cobralcon wrote:I need a rear sump oil pan that has a front section no deeper than 5". Right now I have the Canton but the front is 6.25" and the oil pump is in a location where I could only cut about 1/16 off the bottom which isn't going to help.

If there aren't any ready made can someone suggest a fabricator who builds custom oil pans?

Happy Easter and thanks,

what are your plans for a shorter oil pump ? don't think there is one. short of dry sump , cut your pan to whats needed , get a external pump and pick up .

I know nothing about dry sump and was under impression they were for racing. My car is for street driving. Would that be an issue?
Thanks,

The question still remains - WHAT are you going to do with the oil pump...? It's right there under the sheet metal of the oil pan and is also going to be in your way.
An EXTERNAL wet sump pump system is your best and least expensive option.

EDIT: I should have read the entire thread before answering - it's apparently no longer a problem.

rmcomprandy wrote:

cobralcon wrote:

DanH wrote:

cobralcon wrote:I need a rear sump oil pan that has a front section no deeper than 5". Right now I have the Canton but the front is 6.25" and the oil pump is in a location where I could only cut about 1/16 off the bottom which isn't going to help.

If there aren't any ready made can someone suggest a fabricator who builds custom oil pans?

Happy Easter and thanks,

what are your plans for a shorter oil pump ? don't think there is one. short of dry sump , cut your pan to whats needed , get a external pump and pick up .

I know nothing about dry sump and was under impression they were for racing. My car is for street driving. Would that be an issue?
Thanks,

The question still remains - WHAT are you going to do with the oil pump...? It's right there under the sheet metal of the oil pan and is also going to be in your way.
An EXTERNAL wet sump pump system is your best and least expensive option.

EDIT: I should have read the entire thread before answering - it's apparently no longer a problem.

Cost is an issue, if it wasn't I'd do both the raising of the motor the 3/16 or 1/4 " the motor plate gives me AND the external wet sump. I'm counting on the motor plate system to hold the engine in place. The problem with the oil pan/steering rack rub was caused by the motor mounts allowing the engine to settle down and eliminate the 1/4" clearance I originally had.

Thanks for your reply and edit. At least I am a lot more informed about oil pump options than I was a few days ago.

Hal R