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ADRL nos accident

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Post  whatbumper April 25th 2010, 8:26 pm

DFI429 wrote:
BigBlockRanger wrote:...Due to thermal losses, this requires the bottle to be be raised to a much higher temp than the nitrous itself needs to be at to raise the pressure...

Actually, the principle is not "thermal losses" - you're on the right track though - it has to do with temperature differential.

Speaking generally, to heat a medium to a desired temperature like 80 degrees from 40 degrees, if you apply an 80 degree heat source, the medium will start to go up in temperature quickly at first, and the ramp-up will diminish as the temperature differential gets smaller. Applying a 120 degree heat source until the 80 degree setpoint would maintain a greater differential throughout the heating cycle, thus reducing the heat time. This is the case with purpose-built bottle heaters. I'd consider the water bath setup the guys on the site have posted about to be the best, as it's the most uniform way to apply heat to a bottle.

In the case of these idiots who use torches, the heat is highly localized - which is the cause of the stress which weakens the bottle itself. Yeah, the differential is there, but again highly localized (think: World Trade Center structure failure Crying or Very sad ).

We always used a water bath.

I will be more than happy to supply instructions to those interested. Very cheap and reliable.

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Post  BigBlockRanger April 25th 2010, 9:42 pm

DFI429 wrote:
BigBlockRanger wrote:...Due to thermal losses, this requires the bottle to be be raised to a much higher temp than the nitrous itself needs to be at to raise the pressure...

Actually, the principle is not "thermal losses" - you're on the right track though - it has to do with temperature differential.

Speaking generally, to heat a medium to a desired temperature like 80 degrees from 40 degrees, if you apply an 80 degree heat source, the medium will start to go up in temperature quickly at first, and the ramp-up will diminish as the temperature differential gets smaller. Applying a 120 degree heat source until the 80 degree setpoint would maintain a greater differential throughout the heating cycle, thus reducing the heat time. This is the case with purpose-built bottle heaters. I'd consider the water bath setup the guys on the site have posted about to be the best, as it's the most uniform way to apply heat to a bottle.

In the case of these idiots who use torches, the heat is highly localized - which is the cause of the stress which weakens the bottle itself. Yeah, the differential is there, but again highly localized (think: World Trade Center structure failure Crying or Very sad ).

Hey. I'm a land surveyor not an engineer! Laughing
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Post  bruno April 27th 2010, 6:04 pm

here are the facts guys

http://dragracingonline.com/agent1320/2010/1320-xii_4-42.html

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Post  dfree383 April 27th 2010, 7:31 pm

Sucks to hear, maybe it will make them think about install safety caps over the valves or something.
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Post  whatbumper April 27th 2010, 10:17 pm

bruno wrote:here are the facts guys

http://dragracingonline.com/agent1320/2010/1320-xii_4-42.html

Thanks for clearing that up.

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Post  jones April 28th 2010, 8:29 am

That was just a bad accident. The same thing could happen to any bottle under pressure, as it has been known to happen with oxygen bottles people carry around.
One of my wifes patients has knocked their oxygen bottle over before in their room and made one heck of a mess!

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Post  Greg_P April 28th 2010, 10:28 am

You know, i use a torch on my bottles. An interesting thing to note is that after applying heat in a 3" circle for maybe 1 minute, I can remove the flame, and immediately touch the bottle and it is not even warm.

The bottle transfers heat very well to the liquid inside. What does this mean? In my opinion, it means that the bottle isn't being superheated, therefore there isn't any heat damage being done.

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Post  torkair April 28th 2010, 11:22 am

Greg_P wrote:You know, i use a torch on my bottles. An interesting thing to note is that after applying heat in a 3" circle for maybe 1 minute, I can remove the flame, and immediately touch the bottle and it is not even warm.

The bottle transfers heat very well to the liquid inside. What does this mean? In my opinion, it means that the bottle isn't being superheated, therefore there isn't any heat damage being done.

Greg

Just because the bottle "feels" cold doesn't mean that the damage hasn't been done. Next time you get the chance put an empty glass jar on your stove top with the heat all the way up, go around the corner or whatever and just wait about a minute. The jar WILL shatter and the pieces will still feel cool to the touch.

Having several bottles in rotation would probably be the best way to go about this, but a lot of people are just impatient.
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