Well my Cam pin broke what kind should I get now??

My car was just idleing then went dead just pulled the timing cover and the pin is broke
it's a lunati 61604 with 10 passes on the motor

specs


Motor
545''
d1ve block
scat 4.5'' cast crank
scat 6.7'' rods
probe 22cc forged pistons
10.8to1 cr
lunati 61604 hyd ft cam
lunati voodoo roller rocker
lunati lifter
lunati push rods
lunati springs
dove heads 2.25 int/1.75 ex some port work no clue on flow
victor intake
QFT 950 e85 carb
msd dist
holley 110 gph fuel pump
Tranny
c-6 man rev valve body
tci 3400 stall

Should I fix this cam or try another one ?
It's in a 50/50 street strip fox body
3:73 gears

How does everything else look? It's pretty common to double pin the timing gear to the camshaft. Any bent valves?

Well, that stinks.

Just depends on what you want to do. There is a couple of people you can try if you are interested in a new camshaft. If you get a new camshaft you will have to get new lifters. If you decide to repin the current camshaft keep track with what lifters went were.

If the nose of the cam isn't messed up fix it and double pin it, plus you need to figure out why it happened

bolt to long? Snout to long and not tightening up? To thin of washer? Improper tightening?

I have not checked the valves yet do I have to pull the heads to check them ??

I'm thinking about going with the c460 cam and lifters
I would rather get a new one than chance it
it messed up the timing sprocket so I gotta get a new timing set what kind should I get ?

dfree383 wrote:If the nose of the cam isn't messed up fix it and double pin it, plus you need to figure out why it happened

bolt to long? Snout to long and not tightening up? To thin of washer? Imprope
r tightening?

The bolt was tight everthing seems fine my motor guy built it

how do you double pin it ??

LOL.

I guess we have to double pin hydraulic flat tappet cams now?

While your bolt may have been "tight", the head of the bolt was not tight against the washer to the gear. You need to re-examine your set-up.

You do not need to double pin it for your application.

Hope that helps,

Dave

Shorter bolt or thicker washer? sorry for the newb questions

DJOHAGIN wrote:LOL.

I guess we have to double pin hydraulic flat tappet cams now?

While your bolt may have been "tight", the head of the bolt was not tight against the washer to the gear. You need to re-examine your set-up.

You do not need to double pin it for your application.

Hope that helps,

Dave

Not sure if you are directing this statement at me or not, Dave, but I never stated he had to double pin a hydraulic camshaft. Having said that, it is a common deal on roller cams with a lot of spring pressure as you know. Certainly wouldn't hurt to do it on a hydraulic cam if one was so inclined now would it???

Nevs wrote:

DJOHAGIN wrote:LOL.

I guess we have to double pin hydraulic flat tappet cams now?

While your bolt may have been "tight", the head of the bolt was not tight against the washer to the gear. You need to re-examine your set-up.

You do not need to double pin it for your application.

Hope that helps,

Dave

Not sure if you are directing this statement at me or not, Dave, but I never stated he had to double pin a hydraulic camshaft. Having said that, it is a common deal on roller cams with a lot of spring pressure as you know. Certainly wouldn't hurt to do it on a hydraulic cam if one was so inclined now would it???

No it was not directed at you.

It was directed at Dfree. J/K, or maybe not. LOL.

I find it better to solve the problem than to add a band-aid. His set-up is wrong, hence the comment to re-examine his set-up.

The pins are there for indexing, not full torque transfer.

Hope that helps,

Dave

The pins are there for indexing, not full torque transfer.

I'm well aware of their purpose Dave, just pointing out it's a common addition to a BBF build. I don't disagree, there appears to be an issue with either the bolt, washer or both. I don't agree however that double pinning is a "band-aid" fix. If that were the case, no one would be doing it in my opinion. Try building an 815" hemi with 1.200" of valve lift and see how that single pin holds up!

Double pin wont hurt, but I have run a lot more aggressive flat tappet stuff with one pin and zero failures. I double pin all my roller units just for piece of mind, but in this case the pin is not what failed but rather the result of the gear not retained properly.

What's the best way to fix it??

i know it could'a bit me in the ass but i have only pinned one of my roller cams and it was the small one both the others,over .800 lift were run with one pin.i had a small solid "crane"cam back in the day that had both the pin and the end of the cam break off,hard to tell whitch came first! i know it sucks to have it happen,just be sure you know WHY it did and you will never foreget it.

Big block fox 339 wrote:My car was just idleing then went dead just pulled the timing cover and the pin is broke
it's a lunati 61604 with 10 passes on the motor

specs


Motor
545''
d1ve block
scat 4.5'' cast crank
scat 6.7'' rods
probe 22cc forged pistons
10.8to1 cr
lunati 61604 hyd ft cam
lunati voodoo roller rocker
lunati lifter
lunati push rods
lunati springs
dove heads 2.25 int/1.75 ex some port work no clue on flow
victor intake
QFT 950 e85 carb
msd dist
holley 110 gph fuel pump
Tranny
c-6 man rev valve body
tci 3400 stall

a hyd cam did this ? cam bolt too long/ bolt not tight? was bolt backed out when you removed cover?

How exactly do you double pin a cam?
Bob

mustang68mustangs1 wrote:How exactly do you double pin a cam?
Bob

Send your cam and cam gear to Jet Boat Bob and have him do it, is the easiest way I've ever found. Costs like $50 or so.

Micha, the most likely cause is the bolt was to long or it didn't have a thick washer under the bolt. What it sounds like since it also damaged the sprocket. If the bolt was properly seated and the cam locked it would have just sheared the bolt. IMO (bolt was bottomed out and seemed tight.)

DJOHAGIN wrote:LOL.

I guess we have to double pin hydraulic flat tappet cams now?

While your bolt may have been "tight", the head of the bolt was not tight against the washer to the gear. You need to re-examine your set-up.

You do not need to double pin it for your application.

Hope that helps,

Dave

Nevs wrote:

The pins are there for indexing, not full torque transfer.

I'm well aware of their purpose Dave, just pointing out it's a common addition to a BBF build. I don't disagree, there appears to be an issue with either the bolt, washer or both. I don't agree however that double pinning is a "band-aid" fix. If that were the case, no one would be doing it in my opinion. Try building an 815" hemi with 1.200" of valve lift and see how that single pin holds up!

There was a miscommunication. He does not need to double pin it for his application. To do so, for his application, would be a band-aid fix, because there is another problem. And yes, for certain roller cam installations, it helps/a requirement.

Hope that helps,

Dave

jones wrote:Micha, the most likely cause is the bolt was to long or it didn't have a thick washer under the bolt. What it sounds like since it also damaged the sprocket. If the bolt was properly seated and the cam locked it would have just sheared the bolt. IMO (bolt was bottomed out and seemed tight.)

I think your right the bolt was really tight but I didn't know to check and see if it was bottomed out but I know now

Since I didn't asemble this motor I'm gonna call the builder tomorrow

I'm thinking about going with the c460 from lem since my cam was a lil small any way would the c460 b good for my engine?

Dave blow it out your azz......You Einstein Jackoff Wanabe...

The double pinning was suggested to save the cam he has, just trying to save the guy another breakin and a few $$$$ and I also belive I've already suggested he has an issue with the cam gear being loose for some reason

Guys, don't forget.....He's using a stock block. It's not unheard of for cam bearing bores to be a little on the tight side, especially toward the rear of the block. A new build with fresh bearings in the cam tunnel can cause problems if they're not carefully checked. Just something else to consider before reassembly. Don't ask me how I know.

dfree383 wrote:Dave blow it out your azz......You Einstein Jackoff Wanabe...

The double pinning was suggested to save the cam he has, just trying to save the guy another breakin and a few $$$$ and I also belive I've already suggested he has an issue with the cam gear being loose for some reason

So now you're into "saving" other people? Your track record doesn't agree with this statement.

Also, you posted this earlier:

dfree383 wrote:If the nose of the cam isn't messed up fix it and double pin it, plus you need to figure out why it happened

bolt to long? Snout to long and not tightening up? To thin of washer? Improper tightening?

FYI, you can fix the cam without having to double-pin it.

maverick wrote:Guys, don't forget.....He's using a stock block. It's not unheard of for cam bearing bores to be a little on the tight side, especially toward the rear of the block. A new build with fresh bearings in the cam tunnel can cause problems if they're not carefully checked. Just something else to consider before reassembly. Don't ask me how I know.

You should about this well, aye, Dfree?

Also, FYI, you spell it wannabe, and I'm far from one, B2FBACIP.

You don't have to get upset when my contribution doesn't agree with yours.

Dave

[quote="Big block fox 339"]I have not checked the valves yet do I have to pull the heads to check them ??

You don't have to pull the heads. Back off all the rocker arms and pressure test each cylinder with air pressure. If you hear air thru the intake you probably bent some intake valves. If you hear it thru the headers then the exhausts are bent. When my pin sheared it bent all 8 intake valves. I replaced the exhaust too just to make sure. My ARP bolt was about 2 threads too long. It bottomed out in the hole and gave me an incorrect torque reading. Use a large hardened washer also.