Fly cutting pistions

I have a set of new pistons that I want to have fly cut for the P51 valves. I know thay make a tool that allows you to do it while the pistons are in the engine.
So tell me who are my options for having this work done for me. It's not that hard to pull the pistons and shipped off to someone that has done this before.

Suggestion on shops please.

Charlie had a set done for our EMC engine, pm him. I have the cutter to do them on the engine too.

I think Mike Phillips could do them. I think that's who Charlie recommended to me awhile back.

If you do them yourself just be ready to strip the block down and clean everything again...

I can do them. Lawes and I bought a new piston vice. However, even if you have a piston vice, the other part of the problem is knowing the correct location to put the valve reliefs.

Charlie

What do you need for that information? I would assume the new heads would need to be placed on the short block and some type of mark would need to be made at the valve centerline? Maybe chuck and old valve up in a lathe and turn the valve down into a point?

OR ... a model piston with the correct valve notch location in it, to copy.

jones wrote:What do you need for that information? I would assume the new heads would need to be placed on the short block and some type of mark would need to be made at the valve centerline? Maybe chuck and old valve up in a lathe and turn the valve down into a point?

I don't need anything,,,like Randy said, I have a model piston.

I'm just saying that with other shops, even though they may have a piston vice,,,knowing where to put the valve relief, with the proper cant and incline angles,,,it may be tough for them.

Charlie

I have a print out that I can email with the proper position to notch the pistons.

Can you email it to me? I'll pm you my address.

Sure

raysmust wrote:Sure

Hey RAY ... how's everybody doin' at the FRPP tech line?

c.evans wrote:

jones wrote:What do you need for that information? I would assume the new heads would need to be placed on the short block and some type of mark would need to be made at the valve centerline? Maybe chuck and old valve up in a lathe and turn the valve down into a point?

I don't need anything,,,like Randy said, I have a model piston.

I'm just saying that with other shops, even though they may have a piston vice,,,knowing where to put the valve relief, with the proper cant and incline angles,,,it may be tough for them.

Charlie

So I can send my pistons to you and to can take care of them?

raysmust wrote:Sure

hadn't recieved anything yet, my email address is jones5311@bellsouth.net

I have sent it twice now. Do you have a spam folder? My email that it is coming from is rherron9@ford.com

Hey Randy,

Everyone is good over here, busy like always.

How are you doing?

wouldn't be a bad idea to post the drawing up as a sticky.... Seem to have quit a few questions about valve notch locations.

raysmust wrote:I have sent it twice now. Do you have a spam folder? My email that it is coming from is rherron9@ford.com

I sent you an email from my work account, thanks for your help.

Anyone else having problems with diamondracing website? I just can't get it to pull up. Now that Eric is gone who do we a contact?

( I know the diamond route is the most exspensive)

If I did go with new pistons should I go with a raised dome? I believe my combo with 74cc cambers equal 12.9:1. Then I am really hot and heavy on running alky since I have thrown all the street driving out the window.

jones wrote:

raysmust wrote:I have sent it twice now. Do you have a spam folder? My email that it is coming from is rherron9@ford.com

I sent you an email from my work account, thanks for your help.

I just checked my spam folder, you are correct it did get caught. Thank you!

Personaly I'd get started with what you've got and be happy with 12.9:1 to start, it will be fine to learn on and make your tuning window wider and safer, just get the notoches cut and get on with it !!! You'll spin your self in circles and never have a running truck if you keep over thinking everything.

dfree383 wrote:Personaly I'd get started with what you've got and be happy with 12.9:1 to start, it will be fine to learn on and make your tuning window wider and safer, just get the notoches cut and get on with it !!! You'll spin your self in circles and never have a running truck if you keep over thinking everything.

Im just affraid its going to be too slow to out run anyone. I understand chassis setup comes into play and have no problems loosing to under powered cars because of it. Just want to give myself the best chances that way I dont come back kicking myself in the butt for not doing something.

Josh,

Yes, I'll be glad to take care of your piston notching job.

Charlie

Josh Quit trying to make this project So over Complicated. this is not Rocket Science, Just do something besides taking 2 steps forward and then 3 back. slap your face and come back to reality.....



Randy

Thanks Charlie, I'll pull them and see about getting them to you.

Coug, you make a point. I am trying to finish everything for the engine so I can get to work on the rear suspension and wrap up the interior.

jones wrote:

dfree383 wrote:Personaly I'd get started with what you've got and be happy with 12.9:1 to start, it will be fine to learn on and make your tuning window wider and safer, just get the notoches cut and get on with it !!! You'll spin your self in circles and never have a running truck if you keep over thinking everything.

Im just affraid its going to be too slow to out run anyone. I understand chassis setup comes into play and have no problems loosing to under powered cars because of it. Just want to give myself the best chances that way I dont come back kicking myself in the butt for not doing something.

You have to run it to be too slow !!!!!! Get it running first !!!