torque arm/panhard bar

Anybody running a torque arm/panhard bar setup on a mustang. Just looking for some pics and measurements. Hoping I can get enough info to make my own.
Thanks

If it is a race car do yourself a favor and go the wishbone route.

Travis

No its a street car I may take it to the track a couple of times a year for shits and giggles, but I need it to handle well on the street.

TravisRice wrote:If it is a race car do yourself a favor and go the wishbone route.

Travis

Travis expound on the pros and cons of each type. please.

Thanks for the input so far, and yes a further explanation would be a help, because suspension stuff is all greek to me. About all I know about suspensions is the wheels on the bus go round and round. I have been doing alot of reading and thought the torque arm/panhard bar setup might be my best bet, but If theres a better way than I am all ears.

bumper wrote:Thanks for the input so far, and yes a further explanation would be a help, because suspension stuff is all greek to me. About all I know about suspensions is the wheels on the bus go round and round. I have been doing alot of reading and thought the torque arm/panhard bar setup might be my best bet, but If theres a better way than I am all ears.

Are you talking about factory or aftermarket components?

In either case a panhard bar is a rear housing centering device. They are best used for street driven cars because their design enables them to standup to the higher side loading a street driven car sees going around corners at speed. But they are less than desirable for a drag car since they by design do pull the housing to one side a given amount during suspension travel. A Watts link is another centering device good for street use because of it's higher side load capabilities, and a plus is it wont pull the housing to one side. But a Watts does take up a bunch of room under the car.

For a drag car there are much better centering devices out there than a panhard bar, there's a diagonal link, a double diagonal link (similar to X-link without a slip joint), an X-link (with a slip joint), a wishbone ("U" or "A" shaped with a slip joint). All these are great for the strip, but aren't the best idea on the street.



As for a "Torque arm" traction device, when talking about the factory stuff I always think of the single arm/bar/device connecting to the housing & running down the center of the car offset to the passenger side of the driveshaft & pivoting somewhere well ahead of the housing. For drag racing what was called a "Torque arm" is what a number of the Pro Mods used years ago instead of a 4-link. They were in effect two large/long ladder bars welded to each other with cross bars & diagonal bars making both sides work 100% as one unit.

Fox body?

Just buy good aftermarket stuff (solid lowers/ adjustable or nonadjustable uppers). Factory springs and shocks work great to a point. The uppers are your centering and pinion angle adjustments. Take the front anti-roll bar off at the track.

If not fox body then just forget about the above.

^^what he said.more info please.

Its a 2000 mustang that is soon to get a mild 460 w/auto, all the suspension is stock. It will be driven daily, I live 2 miles from work so its not much of a commute, but will get driven pretty good on weekends. I may take it to the track a couple of days a year, maybe. I don't mind a stiff ride, but at the same time I don't want to get my teeth knocked out either. I'm hoping to start on some suspension stuff to get ready for the swap. I just want it to handle and hook halfway decent, I'm not looking to tame any road courses anytime soon. I just don't want the ass end coming around me around every curve. I just want to say I appreciate everybodys help, on other sites the folks aint so friendly.