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Removing cast iron exhaust manifolds.

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IDT-572
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Removing cast iron exhaust manifolds. Empty Removing cast iron exhaust manifolds.

Post  Phil August 24th 2009, 6:56 pm

My 62 F100 has a stock D0VE headed 429 in it. The factory logs leak like a bitch plus one is cracked on one of the bolt holes. I have some Lincoln 460 manifolds from my D3s in better shape I want to put on.

What is the best way to not bust a bolt removing them? I do not have an oxy acetylene torch.
I do have a crappy propane one though.

Any sure fire tips that will prevent me from dynamiting this thing in the driveway if they bust off?
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Post  69F100 August 24th 2009, 8:29 pm

If on a engine I can crank I get it up to temp and start loosing using a loosen 1/2 or 1/4 round and tighten back up and work them out while the engine is still hot and using alot of P B Blaster as I work them out and use a 6 point socket 12 point sometimes rounds the head off when they are real rusty.
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Post  schmitty August 24th 2009, 11:12 pm

A handheld plumbers propane torch will not get the bolts warm enough to help IMHO. You need to find a better torch, or do as stated above and get the motor up to temp. Take lots of time and use plenty of pentrating oil. Good luck. Cool
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Post  The Mad Porter August 25th 2009, 12:39 am

Phil,

compare the outlet sizes on the old vs. newer manifolds. The older manifolds flow much better. I might have a set of the old ones lying around. You have helped me out in the past with the wiper transmission. I might be able to return the favor...

Let me check tomorrow.


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Post  IDT-572 August 25th 2009, 1:04 am

This is why our site will continue to grow................. Wink sunny
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Post  Harold Paratestes August 25th 2009, 1:41 am

it is very likely that at least one bolt will break off per side. those bolts will be the hardest to access. you'll probably end up pulling the motor and having those bolts extracted by a professional.

it it worth it to try to stop that leak now?

harry

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Post  83-88T-Bird Guy August 25th 2009, 7:22 am

One of the best investment tools I have are those Craftsman extractor adapters that go over the bolt head. It grabs the bolt head and allows more torque to remove the bolts BEFORE the bolt heads are stripped. Now other companies make them as well. Sorry, I don't recall what they are called.

P.S. When you do put manifolds back on your engine, anti-sieze on the bolt threads is your friend. Wink
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Post  bbf-falcon August 25th 2009, 10:36 am

YEP, heat,PB blaster, and extractors. in that order. And like was said,loosen a little,SPRAY,tighten, then loosen again. PITB, but the life of a gearhead Smile

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Post  72mav August 25th 2009, 8:17 pm

Phil,
If you have the room, being a pickup, cut the bolt heads off with a cutting wheel and slide the manifold off. Then soak the bolts ATLEAST over night. And heat the head up with a torch. The yellow map-gass botles should get hot enough. Just remember, the very tip is the hottest part of the flame. Then try a conventional stud wrench that grips the bolt, or a good set of Vise-Grips with a slightly curved jaw.
FYI, Vise-Grip moved to China early this year Mad Mad Mad Mad Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad

NOTHING IS SACRED ANYMORE!!!!
Good luck Phil.
Regards.
Al
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