ONE WIRE ALTERNATOR INSTALL PROBLEM - HELP!

Okay, guys - I finally decided to do something about my lack of electrical power in my car, and I'm already in trouble! I can't figure out what I've done wrong. My car has two electric fuel pumps, electric water pump, and electric fan, and the old fashioned 65 amp three wire alternator just couldn't cut the mustard, so I opted for a new Powermaster 140 amp 2G one wire alternator. What could be simpler than this, disconnect the old external regulator, wire up the one single 8 gauge wire (supplied) to the positive side of the battery (mounted it at the battery post on the starter), start it up - it shows a "whopping" 10 volt charge at the voltmeter, revving it up does nothing, but turning on the lights caues it to drop! Okay - what the hell did I do wrong, or what did I forget to do?? Sometimes I just can't get a break!

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

I'm not sure you did anything wrong! I think you have a crapped out alt. Just my opinion!

Hey, thanks for the quick response! I was beginning to think that you were right - I had a previous problem with a Powermaster alternator, that they were very happy to repair. But as it turned out, all is well (once I got past my own prevailing stupidity)! I hooked up the lead from the alternator to a post that I "thought" was constant 12 volt, but I actually had it hooked up to pole that was 12 volt only when the key was in the start position (DUH)! The only thing I have to fear is ---- myself!

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

i agree bad 1, i got a bad starter also from them ,gave up on the fancy stuff and put a autozone starter on lol...

Wayne Pearce wrote:Hey, thanks for the quick response! I was beginning to think that you were right - I had a previous problem with a Powermaster alternator, that they were very happy to repair. But as it turned out, all is well (once I got past my own prevailing stupidity)! I hooked up the lead from the alternator to a post that I "thought" was constant 12 volt, but I actually had it hooked up to pole that was 12 volt only when the key was in the start position (DUH)! The only thing I have to fear is ---- myself!

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

DIRECTLY to the positive post of the battery, (or to the engine compartment end of the positive battery cable), is the best route for a 1 wire alternator.

Hey, Randy: I agree with what you're saying, but the battery is in the trunk about twelve feet plus from the alternator. What i did was to hook the wire to the battery side of the solenoid which is under the passenger side of the dash which is only about four feet from the alternator. It seems to be working well, with everything running, fuel pumps, water pump, fan, lights - the vot meter is just over 12 V at an idle (850 RPM), as soon as I touch the throttle it climbs to 14 V and I'm happy with that (even happier that I didn't burn the new alternator up with my stupid stunt)!

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Wayne now all you have to do is make sure the car dies when you flip the shut off switch in the back. if so you are good to go....


Randy

if you have a shut off switch you need to wire the alternater to the battery side of the switch. common mistake. i know i did it once car won't turn off.
stosh

yep.....We went to Tulsa a couple years and this was the main thing they looked at in tech, made every car start up and flip the switch to kill it. If it stayed running you didnt race.

Thanks, guy's for the additional insight in regards to being able to shut it down with the kill switch. With my original 3 wire alternator, I couldn't figure out which pole the wire from the kill switch was supposed to go to (I'm an electrical coward). Now with the new one wire alternator, when I throw the kill switch, it DOES kill the motor! In addition to the bright red kill switch knob at the rear of the car, I also have a lever mounted on the trans tunnel that actuates the kill switch via a Morse cable similar to the set up Doug Rahn put in his car.

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

I made the same mistake Wayne, when I installed my one wire 200amp alternator. There's a small terminal post that needed a jumper wire to the 8 gauge wire to the battery terminal post. Also, the engine needed to be at a certain rpm for the alternator to output. Make sure your pulley's have that 3:1 ratio needed for proper charging. I wired my Fairlane to the battery side of the cut off switch, so I can kill my engine too.