friday night TNT

i hope this works.

Looks Dam Good to me

It sounds to me like the engine is laboring just a bit how tight is that converter ?

KY JELLY wrote:It sounds to me like the engine is laboring just a bit how tight is that converter ?

x2 ...plus the odd bounce at the intial hit

Need to stiffen up the bump big time, at ride height is the ladder bar pointing up, down or level?

Is this with the same converter?

richter69 wrote:Need to stiffen up the bump big time, at ride height is the ladder bar pointing up, down or level?

Is this with the same converter?

Where the ladder bar is pointing in reference to the ground (level, down etc) what does that tell you Fabio ?

KY JELLY wrote:

richter69 wrote:Need to stiffen up the bump big time, at ride height is the ladder bar pointing up, down or level?

Is this with the same converter?

Where the ladder bar is pointing in reference to the ground (level, down etc) what does that tell you Fabio ?

considering I have a car setup damn near the same.....quite a bit. I roll old school....no fancy gadgets...........and this aint a 4 link..

The car has way too much antisquat, even for a ladderbar.........either the bump is way soft, shocks dead, or the bar is pointing up to high.

Don't matter if its a 4 link or ladder bar they all work the same. The power to weight distribution is what makes a car work , if its "right" any "jack leg" can find the best bracket hole to use. If its not you won't fix it with shock's.

If the (ic) is too high it won't squat .

Looking at the vid, the wheelie bars look to be 6 inches off the ground. And they hit the ground on the hit, with no movement in the front end. Rear housing rotation? Wouldn't it have to be raising the chassis a bunch for that to be happening. Hitting the tires to hard?

KY JELLY wrote:Don't matter if its a 4 link or ladder bar they all work the same. The power to weight distribution is what makes a car work , if its "right" any "jack leg" can find the best bracket hole to use. If its not you won't fix it with shock's.

If the (ic) is too high it won't squat .

agreed, but a simple eyeball on the bar angle will give some insight...without getting into graphs, math and a bunch of "snake handlin'".


The bars may be too low, but with them 70" long and a ton of antisquat they are gonna slap the ground. Getting the antisquat under control via getting the bar angle or "IC" right needs to addressed first, then getting after the shocks.

And I agree the converter is prolly still too tight.

thanks to all for the help so far,and as you see i still need some.the ladder bars are pointing down now,not sure how many *but i'd say 10*.the shocks are for sure shit.they're the low dollar shit that came with the ladder bars,about 750 passes ago! dont be too hard on me,they worked fine for footbrake racen.the converter is a loaner from a friend,it goes 5600 and just aint enough but it's 800rpm more than mine and still went 1.26/5.64,just like last time.this thing just dont run untill it hits 6000 but it's done at 71-7200.it's also crossing at 7000/122mph.

I'd get some good double adjustables like Afco's. IIRC those cheapo shocks only have a very limited amount of adjustability, a good set will make a world of difference.

As far as the power goes that a small cid to run with those heads.

Converter could stand to be a bit looser...........making progress slowly but surely.

richter69 wrote:I'd get some good double adjustables like Afco's. IIRC those cheapo shocks only have a very limited amount of adjustability, a good set will make a world of difference.

As far as the power goes that a small cid to run with those heads.

Converter could stand to be a bit looser...........making progress slowly but surely.

looken at some strange double adj.these i have now are koni's and i have them tight as they'll go but after a pass they feal like they have 750 passes on them.

Short stroke struts on the front do not give near as much "help" and require more power . That coupled with a too tight converter is keeping the engine out of its happy range.

There is no way you can make a reasonable assumption on what move to make on the suspension in my opinion until those problems are fixed. It appears to have some suspension separation from the video but unloads, it does not appear to wrinkle the slicks at all from watching the video although the video is not really clear.

KY JELLY wrote:Short stroke struts on the front do not give near as much "help" and require more power . That coupled with a too tight converter is keeping the engine out of its happy range.

There is no way you can make a reasonable assumption on what move to make on the suspension in my opinion until those problems are fixed. It appears to have some suspension separation from the video but unloads, it does not appear to wrinkle the slicks at all from watching the video although the video is not really clear.

i'll try to get some closer next time out if i can get dad that close to the line. will it still mph well with a 6-6200 converter?i'm shifting @7000 and crossing @7000 now.

it should this is an A head deal right ? I see no reason it should not turn 7500.

Going fast and rpm go hand in hand , I don't think you will see a huge increase in finish line rpm with a looser converter cause you will be at the 60 timers a lot quicker

KY JELLY wrote:it should this is an A head deal right ? I see no reason it should not turn 7500.

Going fast and rpm go hand in hand , I don't think you will see a huge increase in finish line rpm with a looser converter cause you will be at the 60 timers a lot quicker

ok,thanks KY,i'll be changing converter again but i'm gettn good at it!

It should be mentioned that wheelie bars can in fact slam the ground super hard/quick even if there is no apparent nose lift and/or no apparent rear suspension separation just from the sidewalls winding up a bunch causing the rear housing C/L to get closer to the ground. The effect can increase as the slick air pressure is decreased, allowing the sidewalls to wadd up even more.




In the video there is a good amount of initial rear suspension separation smacking the sidewalls hard into the track surface, the wheelie bars are just following the rear housing down. But I don't think the violence of the hit is to the point of being so super excessive that an I/C change should be done at this point without first knowing where the air pressure was at (playing a part in how hard the sidewall wound up) and where the shock valving was at.

So if your hitting a tire way too hard because the shock extension valving is too loose (or the shock is dead/crap) that should be addressed first before moving the I/C. But on the other hand if the initial hit is still too violent even after the shock extension valving is at/approaching full tight, then yea it's time to move the I/C down.

The engine really did drag down, that's a 60 ft killer right there.

Next time out better/closer video will for sure be a big help for a better rear/side shot & remember to put a good stripe on the tire.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:It should be mentioned that wheelie bars can in fact slam the ground super hard/quick even if there is no apparent nose lift and/or no apparent rear suspension separation just from the sidewalls winding up a bunch causing the rear housing C/L to get closer to the ground. The effect can increase as the slick air pressure is decreased, allowing the sidewalls to wadd up even more.




In the video there is a good amount of initial rear suspension separation smacking the sidewalls hard into the track surface, the wheelie bars are just following the rear housing down. But I don't think the violence of the hit is to the point of being so super excessive that an I/C change should be done at this point without first knowing where the air pressure was at (playing a part in how hard the sidewall wound up) and where the shock valving was at.

So if your hitting a tire way too hard because the shock extension valving is too loose (or the shock is dead/crap) that should be addressed first before moving the I/C. But on the other hand if the initial hit is still too violent even after the shock extension valving is at/approaching full tight, then yea it's time to move the I/C down.

The engine really did drag down, that's a 60 ft killer right there.

Next time out better/closer video will for sure be a big help for a better rear/side shot & remember to put a good stripe on the tire.

i had the tire psi at 7.5.i've ran them lower before but it gets too loose i'm gona have some new shocks next time to try.thanks Dave