Chassis build questions

Tech??? whats that??

Local tracks I wouldn't have a problem, but I enjoy going to different tracks in other states. None are looking for SFI just NHRA certification.[/quote]

But if it's not to SFI specs it probably won't pass a NHRA cert. either!

I will sell you my car. I will even set it up for you for that tire. It would be immediately competitive.

25.5

whatbumper wrote:I will sell you my car. I will even set it up for you for that tire. It would be immediately competitive.

25.5

I don't like Mustangs and i'm not going to own a Gm product.

.......

Nevs wrote:

whatbumper wrote:I will sell you my car. I will even set it up for you for that tire. It would be immediately competitive.

25.5

I don't like Mustangs and i'm not going to own a Gm product.

.......

I read that but it is competitive NOW!

We are thinking about running a different class around here. I don't particularly like Mustangs either but they work sooooo well!! We still have a 62 Falcon that is begging for attention.

How much?

whatbumper wrote:you linked a video earlier. are those times competitive? if so you can be too but I was thinking with the rules presented that a 4.90-5.10 was needed.

Yes, mid 5's would get you in the winners circle.

It's not that I really dis like Mustangs it's just I'm a large guy and trucks are more my thing. All I ever hear locally is "you need a mustang". I had a very nice Mustang at one time but I felt like it was just to small.

You can get there with the truck....its just gonna take a lot more.

BigDave65 wrote:

Tech??? whats that??

Local tracks I wouldn't have a problem, but I enjoy going to different tracks in other states. None are looking for SFI just NHRA certification.

But if it's not to SFI specs it probably won't pass a NHRA cert. either![/quote]

Don't get me wrong, I want to be as safe as I can.

Anyone know what the NHRA 7.50 1/4 mile et cage is good to in the 1/8 mile?

richter69 wrote:You can get there with the truck....its just gonna take a lot more.

I don't think I would be the bear in the woods with this current engine but it will get me out there and running in the class. For me right now it's just getting out there and getting more passes under my belt.

As all of you know I haven't had the best build budget for the last couple of years. But I hope that the budget will get a boost here in a couple of months. Once I get the truck built it's just maintance from then on.

Regardless of cert requirements, MIG welding chromoly tube is not recommended, MIG welding will result in brittle joints. A mild steel cage is easily MIG welded and will not add too much weight percentage wise to a truck. The chassis shop that built my car sells a lot of kit cages and always recommends mild steel for the home builder with a MIG.

Mid-5's in the winners circle. With stock truck suspension? There goes the budget for sure. Worse than putting your money in a dead horse.
I agree with Nevs. Take your tech director out for lunch and pick his brain till hes sick of you. When you show up at tech he will just waive you through.
IMO you are splitting hairs for nothing. Your over thinking it. Build it to the book and be done with it.

richter69 wrote:How much?

PM sent

jones wrote:

BigDave65 wrote:

Tech??? whats that??

Local tracks I wouldn't have a problem, but I enjoy going to different tracks in other states. None are looking for SFI just NHRA certification.

But if it's not to SFI specs it probably won't pass a NHRA cert. either!

Don't get me wrong, I want to be as safe as I can.

Anyone know what the NHRA 7.50 1/4 mile et cage is good to in the 1/8 mile?

I believe 4.50. (At least for my sake, I hope so!)

jones wrote:Anyone know what the NHRA 7.50 1/4 mile et cage is good to in the 1/8 mile?

There is no NHRA rule book "7.50" door car cage specs anymore anyway, 8.50 is now the cutoff. For 8.49 & faster you now have to go with SFI specs.

And yes, never Mig 'moly, only Tig.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:

jones wrote:Anyone know what the NHRA 7.50 1/4 mile et cage is good to in the 1/8 mile?

There is no NHRA rule book "7.50" door car cage specs anymore anyway, 8.50 is now the cutoff. For 8.49 & faster you now have to go with SFI specs.

And yes, never Mig 'moly, only Tig.

Thanks,

Of course I would never mig CM, if I did it myself I would use MS. I have been ordering DOM for the little stuff I have been making so far.

I talked with the division NHRA tech inspector, Wesley Robinson.

1/4 8.49 or 4.50 1/8 and faster has to be CM ,SFI and since my factoy firewall is cut out it would have to be 25.4 (No factory frame rails allowed)

8.50 1/4 or 4.80 1/8 and slower is the basic 10-point, MS cage spec'd in the NHRA rule book.

Go to the Lightning forums and see who makes a good cage that will fit the truck and YOU. Do it yourself.

I'm doing mine myself because that's all my budget allows. I bought a cage from Fabio a few years back. Bought it mainly for the hoop, halo and a-pillar bars because they were bent to be "out of the way" which is what I need since I'm so big. The rest is mostly straight tubes that are easy to cut and weld in. I'm doing all of the fitting and fab work and a good friend that is a welder by trade has been welding them up as I go along.

The only experience I had before was watching the guys cage my old Futura and looking at different cages and chassis' at car shows and the track. I was hesitant to do it until my buddy kicked me in the ass and made me get off of it and actually do something. It's been easy ever since. Only tools I bought were a tubing notcher and holesaws. Already had a angle grinder and other stuff so the cost of tools was almost nil....

I've come to realize that I actually enjoy building and tuning cars more than driving...

jones wrote:I talked with the division NHRA tech inspector, Wesley Robinson.

1/4 8.49 or 4.50 1/8 and faster has to be CM ,SFI and since my factoy firewall is cut out it would have to be 25.4 (No factory frame rails allowed)

CM? HUH?

My T-Bird is a 25.4 (7.50 et up to 3600 lbs) It's ALL mild steel. Cert was just done last year. As I understand, advanced ET (faster than 7.50/4.50) has to be CM, but you can still be in the 7.50-8.49 range with MS at the proper SFI chassis level.

David Cole wrote:

jones wrote:I talked with the division NHRA tech inspector, Wesley Robinson.

1/4 8.49 or 4.50 1/8 and faster has to be CM ,SFI and since my factoy firewall is cut out it would have to be 25.4 (No factory frame rails allowed)

CM? HUH?

My T-Bird is a 25.4 (7.50 et up to 3600 lbs) It's ALL mild steel. Cert was just done last year. As I understand, advanced ET (faster than 7.50/4.50) has to be CM, but you can still be in the 7.50-8.49 range with MS at the proper SFI chassis level.

I might have that mistaken, he might have said 7.49 and faster, I just noted down on my paper. I was mainly interested in the 8.50 and slower.

He did tell me I could bring the truck to him with $200 and have it inspected or wait until he was going to be at the local racetrack.

SFI website says on some of the classifications are for stock framerail cars. He informed me that the SFI board now feels like a car that goes that fast should not have a factory framerail. So I don't know, I'm just going to do what the man says.

David Cole wrote:

jones wrote:I talked with the division NHRA tech inspector, Wesley Robinson.

1/4 8.49 or 4.50 1/8 and faster has to be CM ,SFI and since my factoy firewall is cut out it would have to be 25.4 (No factory frame rails allowed)

CM? HUH?

My T-Bird is a 25.4 (7.50 et up to 3600 lbs) It's ALL mild steel. Cert was just done last year. As I understand, advanced ET (faster than 7.50/4.50) has to be CM, but you can still be in the 7.50-8.49 range with MS at the proper SFI chassis level.

X2. My car is a 25.4 cert and is a combination of mild steel and chromoly. Faster than 7.50, then chromoly is the rule as I understand it.

SFI, 25-1E spec. 7.50 Et and faster. CM only

72mav wrote:SFI, 25-1E spec. 7.50 Et and faster. CM only

From the SFI website:

25.1E Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 2,800 lbs. Maximum

25.2 Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 3,200 lbs. Maximum

25.3 Full Bodied Car with Aftermarket Body Shell and Tube Frame, OEM Body Shell and OEM Frame with OEM or Modified Floorpan and Firewall, or Uni-Body with OEM or Modified Floorpan and Firewall Roll Cage - 6.50 to 7.49 Seconds ET; 3,600 Lbs. Maximum

25.4 Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum

25.5 Full Bodied Car Stock or Modified/OEM Floorpan and Firewall with OEM Frame or Uni-Body Construction – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum

http://www.sfifoundation.com/

Of the above listed SFI specs, the 'moly vs MS breakdown is like this..........


25.1E = all the required bars must be all 'moly.


25.2 = all the required bars must be all 'moly.


25.3 = I don't have this book, so I don't know for sure (and don't really care ).


25.4 = all the required bars can be either mild steel and/or 'moly.


25.5 = all the required bars can be either mild steel and/or 'moly.

Sorry for the confusion, didn't mean to freak anyone out!

So did you start welding up your own cage yet?

Time is a wastin'!!!