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magnesium intake

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Post  cool40 January 8th 2011, 12:38 am

i'v had this intake a long time and never thought about it but after get'n another one i think it's magnesium.who has had or saw one that was? just asken! Very Happy magnesium intake Welder10
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Post  DanH January 8th 2011, 4:05 am

think all the original (1st) TR are magn. , some of the single 4500 were also.

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Post  56Tbird January 8th 2011, 1:59 pm

Would you be interested in sellimg the one with the birdcatcher top ?
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Post  Lem Evans January 8th 2011, 3:14 pm

magnesium intake Trandbruno005Medium
There was not a lot of them.....this a picture of the one we had on the 498" jetboat engine back in 1989. It had the top modified. I sold it to a guy in Canada last year.

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Post  res0rli9 January 8th 2011, 4:08 pm

Ok! Just how do ya weld magnesium with out burning/blowing up???? affraid


Last edited by res0rli9 on January 9th 2011, 11:27 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  56Tbird January 8th 2011, 4:39 pm

Very carefully Dummy cheers lol! king
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Post  cool40 January 8th 2011, 5:26 pm

56Tbird wrote:Would you be interested in sellimg the one with the birdcatcher top ?
my plans are to use it on my 605 i'm tryen to get together.it had the 2x4 top on it when i got it and i needed a bird top so that's why i bought the other one,it had it with it.that's about all it had goen for it cuz sombody cut the bottom out,then cut the front out behind the diz and even cut part of the water neck off! it didnt cost as much as the bird top so i aint hurt any but i do wonder WTF they hacked it up for.it could be repaired i guess or cut up for a project of some sort. Very Happy
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Post  chuck stevens January 8th 2011, 11:04 pm

I've seen two guys successfully gas weld sheet magnesium. There are two "tricks", first...use Hydrogen/Oxygen, second...wear blue shades so you can see the puddle.

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Post  bb429power January 8th 2011, 11:29 pm

chuck stevens wrote:I've seen two guys successfully gas weld sheet magnesium. There are two "tricks", first...use Hydrogen/Oxygen, second...wear blue shades so you can see the puddle.
I was literally just about to ask the question, "what do you use to weld magnesium"?
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Post  cool40 January 9th 2011, 12:03 am

it's sure easy to cut,makes port work go fast. a guy told me i sure dont want any sparks around the dust. i may burn a little to see how it acts! Very Happy
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Post  bb429power January 9th 2011, 12:19 am

cool40 wrote:it's sure easy to cut,makes port work go fast. a guy told me i sure dont want any sparks around the dust. i may burn a little to see how it acts! Very Happy
Burns BRIGHT!!! Like when you adjust the flame on your torch and it turns white, but twice as bright. And it burns HOT!
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Post  DanH January 9th 2011, 12:26 am

cool40 wrote:
56Tbird wrote:Would you be interested in sellimg the one with the birdcatcher top ?
my plans are to use it on my 605 i'm tryen to get together.it had the 2x4 top on it when i got it and i needed a bird top so that's why i bought the other one,it had it with it.that's about all it had goen for it cuz sombody cut the bottom out,then cut the front out behind the diz and even cut part of the water neck off! it didnt cost as much as the bird top so i aint hurt any but i do wonder WTF they hacked it up for.it could be repaired i guess or cut up for a project of some sort. Very Happy
Water crossover was know to corrode at the flange and the back side . to repair had to cut the bottom to get at the back side to weld

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Post  cool40 January 9th 2011, 12:35 am

DanH wrote:
cool40 wrote:
56Tbird wrote:Would you be interested in sellimg the one with the birdcatcher top ?
my plans are to use it on my 605 i'm tryen to get together.it had the 2x4 top on it when i got it and i needed a bird top so that's why i bought the other one,it had it with it.that's about all it had goen for it cuz sombody cut the bottom out,then cut the front out behind the diz and even cut part of the water neck off! it didnt cost as much as the bird top so i aint hurt any but i do wonder WTF they hacked it up for.it could be repaired i guess or cut up for a project of some sort. Very Happy
Water crossover was know to corrode at the flange and the back side . to repair had to cut the bottom to get at the back side to weld
the one that's cut up is aluminum.did they have that problem? it does'nt have all the bolt holes in it,like the ends where the studs can be used.thanks Very Happy
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Post  c.evans January 9th 2011, 9:24 pm

Like Lem said, there were very few magnesium TFS manifolds made. A couple of things to remember are; 1. Water is very corrosive to magnesium, much more so than aluminum. 2. Magnesium carries it's own oxygen, so once on fire it can still burn, even submerged in water.

Hope this helps,

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Post  cool40 January 9th 2011, 9:58 pm

c.evans wrote:Like Lem said, there were very few magnesium TFS manifolds made. A couple of things to remember are; 1. Water is very corrosive to magnesium, much more so than aluminum. 2. Magnesium carries it's own oxygen, so once on fire it can still burn, even submerged in water.

Hope this helps,

Uncle Charlie
maybe this is would be better off looked at and not used.alky fire would show up well with it i guess! Laughing
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Post  cool40 January 15th 2011, 5:40 pm

this is the other one,aluminum,after i welded the front part back on today.why would it be cut out?it welded to the plate i used pritty good,i'm no pro welder.would a thin plate bolted in the center be the way to go or weld it up too?the water neck will need some custom work too. Laughing this thing's gona need some clean up on the outside cuz it looks like the first one ever made.the casting is piss poor on the outside,looks like some kids made it outa mud. Laughing powder coat maybe?magnesium intake Intake10magnesium intake Intake11


Last edited by cool40 on January 16th 2011, 10:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  LivermoreDave January 15th 2011, 8:18 pm

Better keep an eye on that dog. If he/she decides to use it as a fireplug, you won't be happy!

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Post  Nevs January 15th 2011, 10:35 pm

Shouldn't be too big a deal to fab up a tab for the other waterneck bolt. The valley plate should be an easy fix as well. Nothing you can't handle. A little bead blasting and it's good as new!
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Post  cool40 January 15th 2011, 10:49 pm

LivermoreDave wrote:Better keep an eye on that dog. If he/she decides to use it as a fireplug, you won't be happy!

Dave.
he would'nt be happy!the last week it's been cold and i'd hate to boot his ass out in the snow. Laughing
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Post  cool40 January 15th 2011, 10:52 pm

Nevs wrote:Shouldn't be too big a deal to fab up a tab for the other waterneck bolt. The valley plate should be an easy fix as well. Nothing you can't handle. A little bead blasting and it's good as new!
i was thinken about bead blasting but did'nt know how it would cover up some of those grind marks i'm tryen to polish out.i'd like it polished,bling bling polished but i dam sure aint up for doen it. Very Happy
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Post  c.evans January 16th 2011, 1:22 am

I use one of the old long runner TFS A-460 manifolds on Krisse's engine, however mine is alum. not magnesium. It is very common for those manifolds to have that valley plate cut open like that, (mine is) and most of the time a Lexan or plexiglass plate was bolted in and sealed with RTV around the edges. I did make a new valley plate out of Lexan for the one I have and as for the touch-up in appearance, I just painted it with cast alum. color paint. It looks good enough and runs good enough.

Because Krisse's radiator is mounted over the tranny & driveshaft, I converted my head gaskets for single pass cooling and turned the manifold around backwards, so our hot water comes out of the rearward facing thermo housing water neck and just goes right on back to the radiator. That let us shorten that big hose by about 23 inches.

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Post  cool40 January 16th 2011, 1:44 am

c.evans wrote:I use one of the old long runner TFS A-460 manifolds on Krisse's engine, however mine is alum. not magnesium. It is very common for those manifolds to have that valley plate cut open like that, (mine is) and most of the time a Lexan or plexiglass plate was bolted in and sealed with RTV around the edges. I did make a new valley plate out of Lexan for the one I have and as for the touch-up in appearance, I just painted it with cast alum. color paint. It looks good enough and runs good enough.

Because Krisse's radiator is mounted over the tranny & driveshaft, I converted my head gaskets for single pass cooling and turned the manifold around backwards, so our hot water comes out of the rearward facing thermo housing water neck and just goes right on back to the radiator. That let us shorten that big hose by about 23 inches.

Charlie
this one i welded on is alum.too.after thinking about it i thought i'd try to save it.i'd hate to have a fire with the other one and this one realy dont look like it's been run much,just a lota shelf time.it dont have the bolt holes in the corners,is that normal?
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Post  c.evans January 16th 2011, 9:27 pm

Cool40,

It's very normal for them not to have the 4 bolt holes in the very corners. In fact most of tha manifolds do not even have the bolt bosses for it. If my memory is correct, David Willingham's manifold had the bolt bosses and maybe the bolt holes were drilled also. However we found a small leakage problem between the water jacket crossover passageway and those corner bolt holes. Had to do some extra welding in that area I believe. Bottom line is, that casting manifolds or casting heads is a tough job to do.

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Post  cool40 January 16th 2011, 11:02 pm

thanks for the info Charlie,i guess i may not put the corner holes in it.the lexan plate for the bottom sounds like a good idea too.the mag. intake is a lot slicker than this alum.one is but it will shine up. Very Happy
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