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Early 429 crank pilot diameter

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Early 429 crank pilot diameter Empty Early 429 crank pilot diameter

Post  Unfairadvantage June 13th 2011, 2:02 pm

Progressing with the 429 into '79 F150. As some might have expected, when we tried to use the existing 1.375" pilot C6 converter, it bottomed out in our '69 429 crank's pilot hole. The '69 crank has the big 1.85" hole AND the small 1.25" hole deeper inside that.

Possible options/solutions found across the world wide web:

1. Find/make a bushing to run the 1.375" converter in the 1.85" hole.
Problem: snout on the converter is too long, bottoms out before BH mates to block, and even if it did *just* fit, I'd be leery because it needs some room for heat expansion. Any expansion would then cause wear on the thrust bearing, no?

2. Buy a 1.85" converter.
Problem: there are two different lengths; FM104 = 1.2" long, FM105 = 0.96" long. I might assume we need the shorter, since the 1.375" converter bottomed out. Correct assumption? I hate assuming. I have not measured the 1.375" snout yet, but plan to when I get back to the thing.

3. Buy a 1.25" converter.
Problem: there doesn't seem to be any remans available in this size; new aftermarket parts are available but they are not nearly as cheap as the more standard sizes. (Trying to save money here, I already dropped $140 on the HD reman with the 1.375" pilot, they won't take it back since we already put fluid in it).

Any nuggets of wisdom to had here? Sad
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Post  dfree383 June 13th 2011, 2:06 pm

Get the right convertor snout put on?
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Post  Unfairadvantage June 13th 2011, 2:14 pm

I talked to the reman shop, they are good guys, but he could only offer me $30 credit in return for the new HD converter that doesn't fit (he'd have to cut it open again for cleanout to sell as new). So I figured I'd rather just sit on that one until somebody I know needs it, start from scratch getting one that fits right - that's if I can't make it work in this truck. I assume it is too long because it bottomed out and the BH was still a good 1/4" away from the block. The reman man said the snouts are hollow, bad idea to be doing that much machining or grinding/filing on them.
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Post  dfree383 June 13th 2011, 2:52 pm

if its just A stock type one, just get the correct part, they aren't that expensive.

I was thinking you had some expensive race convertor.
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Post  Unfairadvantage June 15th 2011, 11:37 am

Point is well-taken dfree, if I had >$200+ in this TC I'd strongly consider having it modded to fit, but being it's just a $140 HD truck reman I had sitting on the shelf for a few years, it wouldn't pay to cut it open for a snout swap.

So, any advise from you or others, on suitability of a stockish HD truck converter for my application?

It's a .030-over '69 429, zero-decked with D-dishes for @ 9.6:1, with mildly ported exhausts, FRPP RPM intake w/ 3310 carb, L&L mid-length headers, comp xtreme4x4 cam @ 262/270 advertised, which comp says is biggest cam you can use w/ stock converter.

Dyno2k says torque curve is essentially flat: +/- 500 ftLb from 1800 to 3500 rpm, peaking slightly @ 2500 at 513 ftLb.

Money no object, I'd tell Kyle to run something better with a 2k stall rating, but money IS an object, putting him squarely in reman territory budget-wise.

As I understand the subject, a (good/trustworthy) HD reman with the better guts *should* hold up at 500 ftLb. This truck is going to be a weekend warrior toy, mostly street-driven shortbed 4x4 used for tormenting over-confident HEMI owners. :-)
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Post  C_andy460 June 16th 2011, 11:09 pm

If you are interested I have a rebuilt 429 1.85 converter from WIT that was in my Bronco. I pulled it to go to a 2000 RPM stall. Converter has about 1000 miles on it in a new transmission. $75.00 and the ride from Charlotte, NC.
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