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break in oil?

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Post  stanggt May 15th 2012, 7:33 am

how long do u guys run your breakin oil for? do you make any passes when using it. It is green oil Very Happy
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Post  dfree383 May 15th 2012, 7:48 am

I normaly Change it on the dyno after the motor is broke in and a few pulls are made.

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Post  stanggt May 15th 2012, 7:53 am

dfree383 wrote:I normaly Change it on the dyno after the motor is broke in and a few pulls are made.

do u go right to synthetic ?
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Post  dfree383 May 15th 2012, 8:07 am

Yes, as long as I'm sure the rings are broke in.

Advantage on the dyno is you can load the engine and break them in relitivly quick.
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Post  stanggt May 15th 2012, 8:24 am

dfree383 wrote:Yes, as long as I'm sure the rings are broke in.

Advantage on the dyno is you can load the engine and break them in relitivly quick.
engine is in car, fresh, went through some heat cycles with it and then drove it for about 10 miles, run it up to about 4k rpm and did a couple of lauches in the driveway with it. I will be racing it this saturday,1/8th mile pulls so what else should I do to break the rings in ?

thanks
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Post  dfree383 May 15th 2012, 9:05 am

Put regular oil in it, run a race or two then switch.
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Post  bbf-falcon May 15th 2012, 10:50 pm

X2

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Post  cooter May 15th 2012, 10:54 pm

dont want to hyjack the thread but does anyone know who car companies are selling new cars with synthethic? How do they get broken in without burning oil?

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Post  dfree383 May 15th 2012, 11:10 pm

Coatings and hone finish.
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Post  stanggt May 16th 2012, 9:16 am

dfree383 wrote:Put regular oil in it, run a race or two then switch.
how bout if i take out some back rds and pull a couple runs with it then change. thats 9 qts of regular oil and money wasted just for a couple runs. I can run it around some more before the weekend. I just through one of my dealer plates on it and go. Twisted Evil
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Post  dfree383 May 16th 2012, 9:45 am

stanggt wrote:
dfree383 wrote:Put regular oil in it, run a race or two then switch.
how bout if i take out some back rds and pull a couple runs with it then change. thats 9 qts of regular oil and money wasted just for a couple runs. I can run it around some more before the weekend. I just through one of my dealer plates on it and go. Twisted Evil

Oils Cheap....... Tickets aren't.

If you can't afford 9 quarts of oil and a good filter, you shouldn't be racing.
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Post  stanggt May 16th 2012, 10:00 am

dfree383 wrote:
stanggt wrote:
dfree383 wrote:Put regular oil in it, run a race or two then switch.
how bout if i take out some back rds and pull a couple runs with it then change. thats 9 qts of regular oil and money wasted just for a couple runs. I can run it around some more before the weekend. I just through one of my dealer plates on it and go. Twisted Evil

Oils Cheap....... Tickets aren't.

If you can't afford 9 quarts of oil and a good filter, you shouldn't be racing.
LOL!! Rolling Eyes if I couldnt afford racing, I sure in the hell wouldnt be building fords. I just dont like burning money that quick when not needed. its all good. I will get it done. Smile
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Post  69F100 May 16th 2012, 10:09 am

I only run my brake in oil long enough to get the cam and lifters broke in that with flat tappet cam and then let the temp get up to 220* and let it cool on it's own then change it .I would never make any passes on the brake in oil as it may have as it may have some debree in it from parts braking in and sending it through the engine at 6500 rpm plus rpms might not to good.Like Dave has said the oil is cheap insurance when you think about the time an parts you have in the engine and brake in oil is only good for about the 1st 30 mins of the of it life and needs changed.
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Post  dfree383 May 16th 2012, 10:27 am

This kinda reminds me of a thread on another forum....... Guy Runs a SS Big Block, with SS Valves, Monster Roller Cam, Hi Ratio Rockers and Spins it to 8,800...... He's all pissed off because he can't get a whole season out of a set of valve springs..... something like 250-300 passes. They keep breaking at 50-60 runs.......... see the Irony?
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