My possible 466" project

I finally have enough room in my garage to rebuild my engine. It's coming from a 1978 F-250, as the title says, I'm going to clean it, strip it down then off to boring and honing. I'm going to get a eagle racing assembly, edelbrock RPM heads(95cc), along with RPM air gap manifold, a 750cfm carb, and some headers. I also wanted to get a custom flat tappet cam, just to make sure I'm getting the valve action I want and keep the cost a little lower. Right now I don't know which carb I want, leaning towards even more edelbrock. I don't know what kinds of cam specs I should want. The headers that are available are kind of slim. I know there are hedman, mad dog, flowtech and hooker.

I'm running a C6 and swapping in a ford 9" for the rearend. It's going to be mostly a street hot rod and in the future maybe a little drag.

What kind of cam specs should I be running? What companies are reputable in carbs? Headers? Fuel pumps? Water pumps?

Thanks for the help everyone! Once I get the engine ready to come out I'll start posting pics.

What is your power goal? The complete Performer RPM top-end kit is good for 509hp on a 9.5:1 shortblock. Seems like a decent start. A bigger carb and a little better cam could probably get 550 on the same short block.

PS I have never seen it listed in a catalog but Edelbrock does have a part number for the complete kit just call them.

How much bigger?

Application?

georgels wrote:It's going to be mostly a street hot rod and in the future maybe a little drag.

Mostly cruising, street prowling for ricers and some commuting (Probably less than 15 miles a week).

If your buying a eagle kit get a 4.300 or 4.500 stroker kit. Don't leave it at 3.85 stroke. It's not economical if your buying rods and pistons anyway and its free power

The eddy heads are ok, if you intend to have the ported, but their are better heads out of the box for similar prices. the eddy cam is a waste of time. Ford racing SCJs are a better bang for the buck if you going with aluminum heads.

The motor will want a bunch more carb also. The 750 will be way small.

I knew when I got myself my truck I wouldn't really see anything 7mpg, but 466 vs lets say 502. How much more would it suck up? How much more horsepower would I be looking at if I used the ford heads instead along with stroking out to 502?

georgels wrote:I knew when I got myself my truck I wouldn't really see anything 7mpg, but 466 vs lets say 502. How much more would it suck up?

Depends on your tires, gearing and use, it could get better milage.

If your looking for a milage build you'll want to do some things different.

I'm not looking for a mileage build but I want to know what kind of gas money I'm going to be asking from my friends. It does have to end up being pump gas friendly.

How Big of Truck? 4X4 Jacked up with swampers? What size? What Gears?

It's about 4,600lbs and with RWD. I think around 30" tires, I'm probably going to end up getting a custom rearend so I can put whatever gear ratio I want in there.

Are you using it for something other than cruzin? Towing something?

My Suggestion.....

Factory Block .030
4.500 Stroker Kit with 6.800 Hheams and Forged Pistons to get you 9.5:1-10:1 = 545" Forged crank is a good idea but not manditory at this level.
Custom Ground Mehanical Flat Tappet 240ish at .050 on the intake and around .600 lift add about 10 degress on the exhaust
Ford Racing SCJ's with Flat Tappet Springs, Have the valves back cut and do some blending in the bowl's.
Performer RPM with a 850-950HP Holley.
2" Headers and some 3" exhaust with magna flows
Good Electronic Ignition (MSD or Equal)

C6 with a 3000ish convertor, Don't get a cheap convertor, get something built for the application.
4.10 gears with the 30" tires

Your going to need a whole lot of work on your suspension. F250 stuff is for working not for racing.

If your going to heavy tow with it drop the compression down to under 9:1, get a whole lot smaller cam and much tighter convertor. and the 750 eddy will be fine.

545" does sound tempting...

bigblok2000ranger wrote:What is your power goal?

Well, to be honest don't really know, at the very least past 500 hp. I think from lurking so long on here, I've wanted to go bigger and bigger for my engine. It's gone from 466-502-521 back down to 502-466 now 545 sounds almost irresistible.

What are some good companies to buy from for stroker kits? I'm pretty new so I've only heard about Eagle and Scat.

Adney Brown at Performance Crankshaft puts together Scat and his own finished stuff.

Plus a number of other vendors on here sell kits too.

While your gathering parts, ever think of trading that C6 for a C4? A Powerglide would help with street racing, IMO. Watch out for the "ricers". Those with turbos, chips and all wheel drive can embarrass a guy at times!

Dave.

At 4600# in a F250 imo it would be best to stick with a C6

Yeah, I'm going to stick with my C6. I'm aware that if the ricers have four wheel drive, and a turbo they can embarass me. You can usually hear the turbo whistle on anything remotely serious, so going try and do my best at picking my "victims."

I'm not planning on towing and if anything I'll be taking trash to the dump. I'm really considering 4.3/4.5 stroke with my 30 over-bore. I'm guessing my mpg won't be much worse due to the fact that my engine currently burns quite a bit of oil and unburned gas is probably going out the tailpipe. So what kind of HP and TQ would I get out of the 545 with scj heads, 850cfm carb, rpm air gap, flap tappet cam with those specs, and some 2" tri-y headers? Would I need more carb?

get regular 2" headers.

Should be able to hit 600+ like falling off a log, if you know how to build a performance motor and can tune an engine.

I'm going to dyno and get it professionally tuned before I put it in the truck. Any good readings to polish my ford performance building knowledge? Just check my measurements and torque the bolts right, then check again and again. Just like a whole short block rebuild but with more metal right? Oh, and what would be a conservative RPM redline for this engine?

Have you assembled many engines?

You need to fit rings, check all clearances, Check Piston to valve and degree the cam

6000 is a safe limit for a street type engine.

Personally none my dad has done a one or two. Would it still be do-able?

if you have the proper tools and are very mechanicaly inclined yes, its possible.

I suggest doing some reading about engine building, assembly and blueprinting its a little more involved than just bolting everything together.

Have you considered purchasing a complete engine or ate least an assembled long block? Maybe talk with Randy Malick or some others on the site that offer street builds. I have a buddy Bill who works at a machine shop in Seattle, hes probably willing to do the machine work and assembly for you.

I have considered it but I just don't have enough money for the quality of parts I want+labor. I need this build to be reliable and I'm confident enough in my ability that I can do this. I'm going to read up while I'm taking the block out then make a final decision on my build. I think Bill would be a go to for the machining though. Would a stealth manifold gives this build a little more torque that I could actually use on the street? Thanks for letting me pick your brain apart! Hahaha