spark blow out

the ngk 5820 plugs are gaped at .024 I think when it is on the nos with the jet that's in it now it is not likeing it.in the first video the first run it shows the flame going out about or after the shift.the data logger shows the rpm's around 68-6900 when this happens.



in the second video I am on a smaller jet full pull but at the end you can here and see it pop.i think it blew the flame out on that run but I didn think much about it because it was after the stripe.i then went with the bigger jet and that is when the problem showed its self.

whats the cap and rotor look like?

red with a 5/8's hole in it on #1.the cap probably has 200 runs on it.

i mean go look at the rotor tip etc, also the carbon contact in top of the cap real good

Ok,i was just looking at rotor phasing that could be the problem I haven't checked it since pearson set it.the motor is set on 27* in the 7531 I have taken out all but 2* on nos.i probably need to buy one of the adjustable rotor? have you seen this problem with the rotor not phased rite?

You gotta check it, no need for an adj rotor w a cranktrigger. Also id drop the base timing that will reduce the rotor distance. Also try and set the rotor so its closer when all the timing is pulled rather than splitting the diff

And yes if its out of phase it will cause your issue.

richter69 wrote:You gotta check it, no need for an adj rotor w a cranktrigger. Also id drop the base timing that will reduce the rotor distance. Also try and set the rotor so its closer when all the timing is pulled rather than splitting the diff

i here you and understand. i needed to replace the rotor I have now because the tip is loose so I purchased the adjustable rotor.the weather is suppose to be good Friday

Larry, are you going back to Union or Darlington?

union friday night weather is going to be good

i did not buy the correct adjustable rotor so I winged it by retarding the distributor.i don't have a dial on my timing light so i could not tell what the timing was or if retarding the distributor had an effect since I have crank trigger setup.in the 7531 I did take out less timing after 5* 5800.we had a lot of street tuners so the street tires took a toll on the track.i spun both times I went down the track after the 60' last run I got off and on it twice and ran a hi 5 @ 138.i think the problem is still their but less than it was.

No need for and adj rotor or an adv style timing light, drill a small hole in the cap and rig a way to trigger the retards wo activating the noids and set the phase.... Easy to do

Something else is make sure the batt voltage is staying up we had issues w Daves 65 last night and its not a nitrous car . I think 7531 has a low voltage "brown out" feature in it to verify .

yea I can unhook the noids turn the system on then hold the micro switch down to adjust the distributor.no voltage issues at this time it is rarely below 14v when I cut it off.

Q:with a crank trigger setup when you phase the distributor it has no bearing on the timing? this is because it is set at the pick up?

Correct. With a lot pulled out... I dont split the diff, i have the rotor lined up closer w all the retard on vs not, dont get carried away tho

Nice ca Larry..You have an asphalt animal there!...when it goes straight and you can stay in it it will be wild!

i blew up my shit to day.........

Fuk No...Afraid to ask what happened....Mostly salvageable

nos explosion and fire the dumb F'ks let it burn my son put it out with our extinguisher that was on our pit bike.im mad as hell but what can I do at least its not a total loss.

thanks jon for posting the pictures


from what I was told the car was on fire before I left the line.as best as I can tell it may have started as a problem in the wiring and caused the noids to go wide open and then the fireball came to life.

Larry T wrote:nos explosion and fire the dumb F'ks let it burn my son put it out with our extinguisher that was on our pit bike.im mad as hell but what can I do at least its not a total loss.

That's brutal, IDK if you are paid or a volunteer, you have committed to respond as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Did it miss when you got up on it at the line?

FalconEh wrote:

Larry T wrote:nos explosion and fire the dumb F'ks let it burn my son put it out with our extinguisher that was on our pit bike.im mad as hell but what can I do at least its not a total loss.

That's brutal, IDK if you are paid or a volunteer, you have committed to respond as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Did it miss when you got up on it at the line?

the car was running fine the only clue was when I purged in to the motor I had to hold the button longer than just hit the button.you can only see the first explosion in the video their was a moor violent explosion after that.

I had just replaced the bad 1/4 turn valve the new valve handle had a safety latch that had to be moved up to get the valve to turn.well in between the first explosion and the next I had reached over to turn the valve off I could not get it turned until after I got the car stopped.that is what caused most of the damage from were the solenoids were stuck open.