Another Anti-roll bar install Q

Hey,

I had scaled the car at the beginning.

Once I got the car to the track I had to add right rear preload to the spring to get it to go straight.

Should I go back to the orignal scale weight and then adjust the Anti-roll? The orignal scale weight was 60-40 with all wheels being somewhat close to the same weight.

Right now the car has a bit of wedge to it..

Pic is with driver



Pic without driver



Thanks ahead for replys..

TravisRice wrote: JMO -------- You need to have the weight even across the back tires with the car sitting level across all 4 corners with you in the drivers seat. Then install the anti-roll. Use it as a tool not a crutch. Again, Just My Opinion take it for what it is worth .

Travis

Alright.. To make the weight even with the driver in the car there will be some weight jacking involved. I guess lead could be used instead of jacking? Makes me think.. Thanks!

TravisRice wrote: JMO -------- You need to have the weight even across the back tires with the car sitting level across all 4 corners with you in the drivers seat. Then install the anti-roll. Use it as a tool not a crutch. Again, Just My Opinion take it for what it is worth .

Travis

x2

My car like about 20-30 lbs more in the RR w/driver goes straight when wheels are in the air. The set the roll bar up in a neutral position w/driver I have about half turn preload on my roll bar just to make it react faster. Looks like you needs some weight off the front.

Mark Miller wrote:Les,

I sent you a private message did you get it?If interested my buddy with the 10 second N/A SBF Mustang has his own chassis shop can give you his number if you want it.

Later Mark.

No thanks Mark.. Maybe you should check with him.. as you never posted any videos or runs with your car.. My pile has a worn out Well Pump motor w/ Cast Iron that runs 10's.. What's your excuse?

I love ppl that leave a response like this! It's too funny!

Nick totally on topic bud!

BIGDOG466 wrote:My car like about 20-30 lbs more in the RR w/driver goes straight when wheels are in the air. The set the roll bar up in a neutral position w/driver I have about half turn preload on my roll bar just to make it react faster. Looks like you needs some weight off the front.

Ya.. Running Cast Iron heads.. Bummer.. Maybe Aluminum heads for 2011?? Thanks soo Much for the Imput.. gonna be a better year then my rookie 2009 season.

westsideford wrote:

Mark Miller wrote:Les,

I sent you a private message did you get it?If interested my buddy with the 10 second N/A SBF Mustang has his own chassis shop can give you his number if you want it.

Later Mark.

No thanks Mark.. Maybe you should check with him.. as you never posted any videos or runs with your car.. My pile has a worn out Well Pump motor w/ Cast Iron that runs 10's.. What's your excuse?

I love ppl that leave a response like this! It's too funny!

Nick totally on topic bud!

Les,

I think Mark was just trying to be helpful. You on the other hand choose to look more like an ass each and everytime I open one of your threads. I was the first one to reply to your question here, hence take it for what it's worth. I usually don't get caught up in the keyboard tough guy stuff but I got a little advise for ya. Maybe go down to NAPA, get 4 new shocks a sway bar , a ball joint from a 58 EDSEL for the left front, then get go ahead and get a Well Pump Specific torque converter from Lenny@UCC, and make sure you tell him how to build it for your torque curve since you have the one and only 10 second "WELL PUMP" engine....... I think I will go ahead and ignore your blatant disrespect torwards all the members here from today forward....

Someone who has never built anything, drove anything or did anything for himself , that would be me,
Travis