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Major disappointment

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supervel45
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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 4:28 pm

And I'll wait on nitrous until I make a full n/a pass and this big block wakes up.
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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 5:27 pm

Switch is ground I think as arm of pedal touches it at full throttle so I'll just pull wire and wire together
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Post  supervel45 September 28th 2015, 5:51 pm

affraid

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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 6:39 pm

Didn't seem to do anything? Advances timing the same tried going to 2 and 3 grand apart or wired together and no differences. It really missed 2nd to 3rd do you think it's only set up to work there for nitrous?
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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 6:40 pm

At track it did miss bad there 1st to 2nd seemed good but bad miss 2nd 3rd and it's like half ass pulling in 3rd. Well u can see that with the times
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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 6:45 pm

Well I just put wires back on and turned the 14 to 0. That should work right?
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Post  supervel45 September 28th 2015, 6:49 pm

Disconnect the pink wire going to the retard box. Set the dial to zero. Check timing with timing light and set it with the distributor were you like and make a pass.

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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 6:50 pm

Cut wire and back tape it?
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Post  FalconEh September 28th 2015, 6:50 pm

6jeff6 wrote:Well I just put wires back on and turned the 14 to 0. That should work right?

What was it showing for total timing ? Turn on all switches the same as you had them at the track, and if it is triggered then Yes turning it to zero should put 14^ timing back in you should be able to tell the difference from what you just did.
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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 6:52 pm

I really wasn't watching I just watched advancement and it was exactly the same 2 or 3 grand
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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 6:55 pm

I can if you want me to?
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Post  supervel45 September 28th 2015, 7:01 pm

6jeff6 wrote:Cut wire and back tape it?
Yes black tape both ends of the wire. This will eliminate any retard until you can get the wiring and switch's figured out, and you can set your timing with a light the old school way and rule out the electronic's as the problem, which it might not be anyway.

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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 7:12 pm

K thanks. As long as check is big enough I'll be hitting track Saturday for test n tune
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Post  supervel45 September 28th 2015, 7:15 pm

What Falcon was getting at, I believe with the switch's, is that there should be a separate switch to arm the nitrous, and the retard is fed by it also.

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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 7:22 pm

I'll bring timing light with but cutting the pink should solve it if it's the issue?
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Post  supervel45 September 28th 2015, 7:27 pm

6jeff6 wrote:I'll bring timing light with but cutting the pink should solve it if it's the issue?
Yes according to MSD's schematic it should eliminate any retard signal.

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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 7:48 pm

Awesome thanks man
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Post  FalconEh September 28th 2015, 8:20 pm

Thanks Supervel...internet problems 3rd reboot is a charm Laughing
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Post  6jeff6 September 28th 2015, 8:38 pm

Thanks falcon appreciate the help
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Post  6jeff6 September 29th 2015, 6:08 am

What should I set timing at? Basically a bone stock 521 with kooks, full out the back thru exhaust and 1050 dominator.
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Post  D. Sea September 29th 2015, 8:28 am

What heads and what compression?

Start around 32 degrees and make SURE you are at top dead center with the timing mark at zero.
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Post  6jeff6 September 29th 2015, 11:23 am

Scj heads 10-1
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Post  6jeff6 September 29th 2015, 6:30 pm

Okay someone step me thru the timing please so I don't miss any steps and mess this up(geez too long since I've done this ). What rpm do I rev to right now to see what their timing was set at? They have a mark close to 40 on pulley.
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Post  jasonf September 29th 2015, 7:03 pm

6jeff6 wrote:Okay someone step me thru the timing please so I don't miss any steps and mess this up(geez too long since I've done this ). What rpm do I rev to right now to see what their timing was set at? They have a mark close to 40 on pulley.

That depends on the springs in the distributor. Seems how you have no idea you need to start with the timing at idle then slowly rev it up to see where it stops and at what rpm it stops, You want to do this with no vacuum advance or any other timing controls. Typically you would have all the advance in around 3000 rpm but that will depend on the build. You need to figure out your baseline then go from there.
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Post  6jeff6 September 29th 2015, 7:20 pm

Okay thanks. Now being plugs were black can i advance it a few degrees because it already is too rich?
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