93 F150 528cu project build

Thanks, I have spoke with him and will purchase some when I get the $$

jones wrote:Does anyone know where I can find a replacement dash pad that goes on the passanger side part of the dash? I guess I could just re-wrap it.

Jones,....

Don't know if you still need this or not,....?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-96-FORD-LIGHTNING-BRONCO-F-150-250-DK-GREY-DASH-PAD-/110526033285?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19bbdd6d85

Thanks, I have never done the ebay thing but I guess I will try to set an account up to get this item! Besides I have some extra little parts to sell.

Not a lot of things to do, so I decide to work on removing the paint off the fire wall. Trying to decide if want to go ahead with the patch panals or wait until the cage is installed.



next steps will be the door jams. While I am doing this I am trying to find out how much weight I can remove off the front. I would love to get the truck down to 3,600lb. Shooting for 4,000lb though

I would patch all the ones that will not be in the way of the cage as it exits the firewall. just my .03 cents

do the front like Doug's yellow truck! it will remove a lot of weight. or you could go old school straight axle.

I would love to do a double tube frame rail with struts. As posted on Dougs build that is a ton of weight you could cut off. My only concern is tieing it back into the factory frame rail.

Just have to make sure the firewall and floor pans are seam sealed and no fire can get into the drivers compartment.

Ask Doug if he can crawl under his truck and take some pictures of how he did it.

jones wrote:Not a lot of things to do, so I decide to work on removing the paint off the fire wall. Trying to decide if want to go ahead with the patch panals or wait until the cage is installed.



I would love to get the truck down to 3,600lb. Shooting for 4,000lb though

Hey Josh, I'll get ya some pics of my firewall where the cage comes through. When I patched mine, I just used 22 ga. sheetmetal, and put caulking around the edges, then riveted the panels over the holes.

As for the weight removal. You'll be pleasantly surprised how much weight you can shed if you want it light.




Doug...

I would like to purchase a hole saw and dimple die kit. I could go to town on the interior door panels but I want to keep my power windows, so I can't go real crazy.

Honestly there isn't a whole lot here to lighten-up. I might go to town on the front clip like you did and go to a smaller radiator, or no radiator if I go alky.

jones wrote:I would like to purchase a hole saw and dimple die kit. I could go to town on the interior door panels but I want to keep my power windows, so I can't go real crazy.

Honestly there isn't a whole lot here to lighten-up. I might go to town on the front clip like you did and go to a smaller radiator, or no radiator if I go alky.

There's a LOT to lighten up. I took ALL of my crossmembers out at the rear of the truck and replaced them with 1-1/4", or 1-1/2" round tube. You can skin all of your panels, including the inside & floor of the bed, front fenders (my fenders weigh about 11-1/2 lbs), the hood, the inside of the roof (that's about 40 lbs). And I got rid of the tailgate and rear bumper all together. If you're doing race only, gut that thing. Get rid of ALL of the glass, and replace it with 1/8" lexan.





Doug...

So, I have been working on the firewall patching, welding, bondo and sanding. I got to looking and noticed I could get to all the spot welds! Now the firewall is 1/3 drilled out. Should look much better and much lighter than the factory firewall with welded patches and bondo.

I also traded some parts for a sportsman steering column from ART that will replace all that heavy factory stuff.

jones wrote:So, I have been working on the firewall patching, welding, bondo and sanding. I got to looking and noticed I could get to all the spot welds! Now the firewall is 1/3 drilled out. Should look much better and much lighter than the factory firewall with welded patches and bondo.

I also traded some parts for a sportsman steering column from ART that will replace all that heavy factory stuff.

Watch modifying the factory sheet metal in the firewall area, got to watch NHRA safety rules on that depending on what else you intent to do to the truck right now.

If I read the rules correct, as long as it's in the same location and proper material I should be ok.

I think I am going to shoot for the stock suspension 275 radial class or index racing. That is if the class doesn't dissapear before I have it finished.

I'm nervous!!

Thinking about starting to order the chassis parts. I feel like there is no going back once I order this stuff.

Figure I would start with:
1. roll cage
2. Lowering I-beams
3. front wheels and tires
4. ladder bar and crossmember
5. seat
6. gas & brake pedal assembly
7. center section, spool, gears, pinion support, rebuild kit, axles & yoke
8. electronics (lights, ignition, etc.)

Then all she would need is the engine dropped in, converter, transmission bolted up, driveshaft and headers made.

Doesn't sound like a whole lot until you start putting $$ beside it.

If the rules change before you are through building it , just keep on building they will probably change back before your done.

Make a plan and stick with it, you can bracket race if nothing else. ATleast you will be having fun and the trucks done.

From what I can tell, as long as I keep the stock suspension on the truck I'll have a class to race in. That would be until I start winning and they would probably outlaw me for having ladder bars with stock suspension.

IDT-572 wrote:If the rules change before you are through building it , just keep on building they will probably change back before your done.

Make a plan and stick with it, you can bracket race if nothing else. ATleast you will be having fun and the trucks done.

/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ I agree with Blake. build it to suit something, even yourself. Don't worry about all the keyboard builders and racers out there. OK to ask how to do something but don't be strayed off coarse and build something SOMEONE else thinks you should build. Mainly have fun Jonesy ............

Here some current pictures of the project.

looks like its gonna be a sweet ride Jones, cant wait ta see it finished, keep us posted, what did you bout cylinder heads?

Uuuuhhhmm Jones, I hate to tell you this, but you've got a huge hole in the front of the cab. I kind of enjoy the long term projects myself. It gives me something to do during the winter when I feel like working on it.

hillbillyerv wrote:looks like its gonna be a sweet ride Jones, cant wait ta see it finished, keep us posted, what did you bout cylinder heads?

Cylinder heads, who knows!

schmitty wrote: Uuuuhhhmm Jones, I hate to tell you this, but you've got a huge hole in the front of the cab. I kind of enjoy the long term projects myself. It gives me something to do during the winter when I feel like working on it.

Yup, I had probably spent 3 months patching, filling and sanding. Got to looking at it and decidied, I honestly believe I would be better off drilling the spot welds out and making a new fire wall.
Ha, I had no idea this was going to be a long term project. Although as most folks, financial decisions are made and things just don't move along as spirited as ones mind can imagine. Every year I say, "this will be the year". This coming year has high expectations!

I have a friend coming over this Friday that owns a glass company. He is going to help me pull the front windshield and rear glass.

PS. I do work on stuff. Notice the underside of the cab compared to some of the first pictures.

Trying to decide if I should go with the 15x6 or 15x3.5 wheels up front. I think I am going to go with the 26" or 27" tires. I can't stand for the tires in the front to be taller than the tires in the back.