will doing these things help in ET ?

I have made multiple post about my 8000 rpm 408W , vehicle 3000lbs, with 235lbs driver ,4.10 gear, drag radial 275/60/15, 5000 stall ,950 carb, 1 7/8 primary long tube headers 1.36 60ft , 6.30ET 1/8@109 mph.

Repairing valve spring issues. (valve float)
Locking out distributor.
Going to a 1000cfm carb.
2'' primary long tube headers. Thanks Whitefield

Adding more info !

C4 transmission
Cam is solid roller Vic jr intake 205 AFR heads
276 intake 284 exhaust duration @ .050
Installed on a 103 lobe seperation lift I will add later
Pretty much all of my passes from 6.39 to 6.30 were 1.36 60 ft
10 way adjustable struts and shocks
Coil overs in front  tubular k member and control arms.
Anti roll bar in rear with (new) stock GT replacement rear springs
Solid rear bushings with double adjustable upper and lower control arms
6 point cage  through the floor frame connectors ,returnable fuel system , 16 Gal fuel cell

Have you had this on a chassis dyno to confirm that you need to spin it that high and still make power? I do a lot of Windsors and rarely see the need for that kind of RPM. Just asking, you may find it might not make as much upstairs as you want, less RPM may also get rid of valve float issues.

pmrphil wrote:Have you had this on a chassis dyno to confirm that you need to spin it that high and still make power? I do a lot of Windsors and rarely see the need for that kind of RPM. Just asking, you may find it might not make as much upstairs as you want, less RPM may also get rid of valve float issues.

7000 rpm got me 6.39
7500 rpm got me 6.36
8000 rpm got me 6.30
I did not want to twist it past 8000 I really just wanted 7000 rpm but kept going up 500 rpm at a time and it kept getting faster.!

no dyno just track times at the same track all season long.

Thanks for the insight .

I'm not saying anything is impossible, but air conditions and/or traction could account for the ET difference. Some time spent on the dyno will give very good info as to HP range, torque range, and best ignition timing, not to mention carb jetting. And it costs about the same as you would spend going to and from the track, plus entry.

We will try to do that this season. Trying to be more competitive with the list racing I do . Thanks Whitefield

whitefield wrote:We will try to do that this season. Trying to be more competitive with the list racing I do . Thanks Whitefield

If the lengths of the primary tubes are correct along with the correct size and length collectors ... larger header primary tubes will just hurt your performance.
I don't think it is the peak RPM making the difference but, power or converter lock-up at the lowest RPM shift change.

Use a good "crank" triggered ignition.

Different intake manifold and carb combinations may help.

I found that at the ETs that your talking about,with the gear you have you are at about the max. that you can expect with a hydraulic cam. At least it sounds like my hydraulic cam problems. If your running a C-4 with a 5000 stall and a 410 gear, the stall may be a little to high . We used a 4500 stall . Your converter guy should be able to help u with the description of the car that you posted and add the gearing of the transmission. Get the set up correct. I. Agree with Dyno recommendation. Borrow some carbs if possible and Dyno them. For your set up I personally think that 1000 cfm is to much.
I had my best luck with a 900 which started life as a 750 on a victor jr intake . Phone calls to a carb builder are free and helpful. Be careful with the header tube size....to big and your other efforts are wasted. You can have lots of horsepower, without being able to put it to the ground it's money wasted.
Didn't notice any discussion on your chassis . What's that rear end set up. You could get to 1.30-1.32 if it's leaf spring? Leave RPM ? As was mentioned before you want to be leaving at the correct RPM with the correct stall and first gear and shift point ,glide or C4.
What shocks are you running? Are you pulling the front tires?
I'm not an expert like others in this group. I spent a few bucks getting the little knowledge I have ...LOL!!! Sorry for the long message. If you covered all of this then can the message please.

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I'd try a lower (numerical) gear. I've always preferred my engines to have to work for it. Maybe a 3.90 or a 3.73 and see what it does?

Sometimes loading an engine produces a more efficient outcome...

Added some more info .

Thanks for all of the replies. Randy and Jon I will do some testing in couple months when the weather starts getting better . The ones I have money to do .

Please keep us up to date. Right combination is the key.

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Roger Dyess wrote:Please keep us up to date. Right combination is the key.

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I will do sir. I would like to post some pics and videos , but since photo bucket has gotten greedy. I am not sure I know how to get them posted ! lol

I will do sir. I would like to post some pics and videos , but since photo bucket has gotten greedy. I am not sure I know how to get them posted ! lol[/quote]

https://www.429-460.com/t26481-testing-a-picture-upload#300421

There was another thread that was a little shorter read but I couldn't find it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/m5fjikUXpbGAHfhg6
Not sure if this works

I would put slightly more gear in it with a bigger/Dominator carb on a World Products intake manifold.

Agree with Randy.
I also like converter stall being 1500 rpm lower than shift point.
With that reasonably big solid roller cam in the 408 the peak torque is certainly well above 5000 rpm.
I would be around 6000 rpm stall for converter.

have you tested yet

johndickjr wrote:have you tested yet

No sir not yet but have been working toward testing in late April or early may. I hate to give a date as I almost always never meet or make the date or deadline !

if you go with a different cam , let me know, ill take the one you are using