The 83GT

BigBlockRanger wrote:Buick v. Ford is next weekend, so what better way to prepare than to put the nitrous plate on and wire up the microswitch?

The only trouble is I need a smaller jet for the fuel. The smallest I have is a 47 and I need a 34. A 47 would be fine if I was carbureted, but it needs to be small since I am tapping into efi fuel pressures.

On my EFI Big Block with Wet Plate System I tapped into the factory Fuel system also. It's like 12 Psi if I If remember correctly.

I Jetted the fuel pill down also until it was right.

I could have put a Cheapie Holley Fuel Pressure regulator on it I guess and reduced the fuel pressure to the fuel solenoid also to fine tune it. The smaller fuel pill seemed the best option though as less to go wrong.

If you wanted to Super Fine tune it the fuel pressure regulator could be handy though. Like when you go for bigger nitrous jets in the future.

Yeah the 34 is the fuel jet. It has a 61 on the nitrous side. Should be a nice kick in the pants.

BigBlockRanger wrote:Yeah the 34 is the fuel jet.  It has a 61 on the nitrous side.   Should be a nice kick in the pants.  

Oh, Ok I did Not Know The Nitrous Pill Size.

Yes That Should Put a Move on Her.

Find A Back Road and Hit it From a Dig or a Slow Roll. At Highway Speeds it will not seem Like that Much.

Looks Like my Junk is going to be a few days behind . When one daily breaks, why does trouble happen in pairs back to back? At least one is a cheap fix if you drop the tank to replace the fuel pump hose the Alky Fuel Eats Up to the Main Metal Line. $15 Buck a Foot Green Hose it is This Time, to get a 1 1/2" Piece, Bastards. The Other Deal is Something I don't think I have ever seen before and don't know WTH it is. It's Lovely when a Wrecker Can't Clear a Parking Garage for Extraction. I will report back on that deal, It's Down Right Weird. A 331 0r 347 make be Next. Somedays it's Just FMR to the Max.

Glad Yours is Coming Along, and Mine will be Better Taking More Time with it, Anyway.

I finally got the right locks so I put the heads together today. I goofed and ordered a set of +0.050's when I meant to order -0.050's. Everything looks good now. I really want to put them on, but I gotta get back to working on the green car!

​

Also I think I have finally ordered a cam that is in stock.

I picked a Comp XM288H. When I compared it in Dyno2003 to the Lunati that I had on backorder, it was virtually identical and actually made a little more top end.

Cam specs:

Advertised Intake Duration: 288

Advertised Exhaust Duration: 304

Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 244

Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 254

Intake Valve Lift: 0.570

Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.575

LSA is 112 and ICL is 110.

Ideally I would have chosen a tighter LSA, maybe a 108, but beggars can't be too choosy these days.

This one has 20 degrees more duration at 0.050 on both the intake and exhaust than the cam that is currently in it. Plus a little more lift and 3° less cam advance.

BigBlockRanger wrote:I finally got the right locks so I put the heads together today. I goofed and ordered a set of +0.050's when I meant to order -0.050's. Everything looks good now. I really want to put them on, but I gotta get back to working on the green car!

​

Also I think I have finally ordered a cam that is in stock.

I picked a Comp XM288H. When I compared it in Dyno2003 to the Lunati that I had on backorder, it was virtually identical and actually made a little more top end.

Cam specs:

Advertised Intake Duration: 288

Advertised Exhaust Duration: 304

Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 244

Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 254

Intake Valve Lift: 0.570

Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.575

LSA is 112 and ICL is 110.

Ideally I would have chosen a tighter LSA, maybe a 108, but beggars can't be too choosy these days.

This one has 20 degrees more duration at 0.050 on both the intake and exhaust than the cam that is currently in it. Plus a little more lift and 3° less cam advance.

That's about the Old SVO C460 Cam. It was 112LSA. 560HP I believe on the 460 Crates at the Early 11.5/1

Should go good.

I Talked to Paul on the Camshaft Lifter Delima last week.

You really really should give him a ring. Seriously.

He has something you really should get with your new Camshaft.

He is Very good to Forum Members about the Denero as others are Gouging away.

When I catch up on Funds I sure will be sending some his way.

Jegs Finally Got that Lunati you had on Order with Summit, I believe it was. It's Like 4 degree's less then the C460 duplicate. Or in that Vacinity (Sp) More or Less



https://www.ebay.com/itm/404549122489?epid=1170199325&hash=item5e3101b9b9:g:yqsAAOSwK0xlKo3x&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4OhnjO%2BFsGEOvH7TyPRHsHUvOHwjQtfRBSGGMch5XucIOotXNpNhM65VWmIcliS%2BMupKXX1BVXQnvrR6J8ZdP652EJ72QZKk8W%2B4HiG7%2F4ErYgZoh4PpetOBwyTl2OT0HZucgwJs59ijFAvPgBQVGyuCMioxKOKfkhSQTp5ojQCF5LFx50rB9PGg7FB6%2BPmZJUfOHYOwB06Zgn%2BP1hINWdRJec21KA9K4VaeCE7FdUoPggeuVNteFMLAczDEq6WZW%2F5%2FHgqmgJAxjMWapOmU60f9AV3cApowpGNZ57Yk85VW%7Ctkp%3ABFBM6OSflOhi

280 for a HFT is Whack Though.

I got that CompCams with Lifters New for 165 plus the Ride. It's in Premo Shape and the Lifters are in the shrink wrap box, Cam in thick brown grease. Doubt the box was ever opened. Could not find a date of Mfg. but, it Looks Oldish and Less Chineish, Maybe?

The Lunati 705 full Spec.'s.

https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-hydraulic-flat-tappet-cam-ford-429-460-284-292.html

I Kinda Like Your First Pick on the Lunati Better because it has more Lift. Probably Not a Nickels worth of Noticeable difference on Performance I Bet.

What They are made of and How well The Lobes will Last is my Biggest Concern NowaDays.

Call Paul is All I know on That.

PS1: Quads Going on Now! Hope to Fire by Morning if All Goes Well.

PS2: 2:45 AM She's On There and RTVed and Bolted Down. With Carburetors {600VS's} and Hat ect. 55Lbs.

       ^ The Intake is Bolted Down, I'm Not That Fast. The Weight was for Notable Reference. After Coffee Done

For the Record the Ford OEM Truck Cast Iron Manifold with EGR 4150VS{770VS}no Air Cleaner was 75Lbs.

PS3: I was Slipping on the Above Post on the C460 Camshaft. It's a 110 LSA. Ooop's

^ https://www.ragtop50.com/data/85.pdf

I.
Dont.
Believe it.

The Comp cam actually shipped.

BigBlockRanger wrote:I.
Dont.
Believe it.

The Comp cam actually shipped.

Great it's About Time.

The Texas OEM Ford Regirinder on Fleebay Made me an Offer I could Not Refuse on a HFT 296/296 246/246 .588"/.588" 112LSA. I can put 1.8's on the Exhaust if I want to go Dual Pattern with it.

^ Its Close to Your Comp you just ordered. My Compression on the 472 is in the Mid 9's and my Comp 294B8 may be a little to big for that Deal. I was going to run my Little Lunati 230/230 but, Options are Nice.

Those SCJ's Should wake Yours Up A Lot.

I Talked to SAM (School of Automotive Machinists) and They said they would Flow and cc my PI's with a Printout for 50 Bucks. I Think I am going to drop the cash on it. If they Flow good, That will be a Bonus, or I ever sell them off for some P-51's it will be Nice to have a Sheet on Them from a Big School/Shop.

Cam showed up today. Can't believe I finally have a cam!

BigBlockRanger wrote:I finally got the right locks so I put the heads together today. I goofed and ordered a set of +0.050's when I meant to order -0.050's. Everything looks good now. I really want to put them on, but I gotta get back to working on the green car!

​

Also I think I have finally ordered a cam that is in stock.

I picked a Comp XM288H. When I compared it in Dyno2003 to the Lunati that I had on backorder, it was virtually identical and actually made a little more top end.

Cam specs:

Advertised Intake Duration: 288

Advertised Exhaust Duration: 304

Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 244

Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 254

Intake Valve Lift: 0.570

Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.575

LSA is 112 and ICL is 110.

Ideally I would have chosen a tighter LSA, maybe a 108, but beggars can't be too choosy these days.

This one has 20 degrees more duration at 0.050 on both the intake and exhaust than the cam that is currently in it. Plus a little more lift and 3° less cam advance.

Are you going to have to cut new groves in your pistons to work with those heads?My bad i see you said you might have too!!

My Two Cents, Is He will Even on a 112LSA. It will Probably be such a Small Amount, Just Enough to Aggrivate Him as To Why the Piston Folks Don't do it From the Get Go.

If He Put's it In on That 110 ICL I bet it's a Cunt Hair's worth of Powered Aluminum.

Hopefully He goes for a 106 or 108 Though. You Know Street Gears and all Plus 5 Hundren and Fifty Something Cubes.

That 112 LSA is Going to Love the Joy Juice. That's Why I got Mine, Ooh Plus the Price.

I played with the car yesterday afternoon. It is back to acting like it has a dead cylinder. All 8 plugs are firing and all 8 header tubes get hot.

I pulled the plugs and 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 were all dry all look identical. 2 and 3 were oily looking. So 2&3 have something going on. Maybe a compromised intake gasket or a toasted head gasket. Idk, but something is up with those two.

Not a big deal since I am going to do a head swap anyway. It will all come apart and I will figure out what the deal is.

What's the compression on all 8?

I had one years ago with the thing Childs and Albert racing rings I sprayed alot running 225 on 7 holes and 150 on the last. The Top ring on the bad hole was flaking at the ends. Yes they had plenty of gap.

Seems like a compression plus leak down test before you take it apart might be useful? I would do it if I had time on one of mine if a re-bore or re-ring was not planned.

I guess you will be re-ringing anyway?

I checked compression right after Raceweek and it they were all 145 psi. Plugs on 2 & 3 were gunky then too with 2 being real gunky. I thought it might just be a bad valve stem seal, so I put a new one on.

I don't plan on re-ringing it unless I find a really good reason to do so. I don't want to get into it that deep.

I reloaded the tune to an earlier one and it really seemwd like it was running fine now. I didn't run it long but it wasn't stumbling and the O2 gauge was reporting believable AFR numbers.

Stuff like that makes using a carburetor sound good again. That is, until I need to make a jetting change and it's 95 degrees outside and 200 degrees under the hood! Haha.

BigBlockRanger wrote:I checked compression right after Raceweek and it they were all 145 psi.  Plugs on 2 & 3 were gunky then too with 2 being real gunky.  I thought it might just be a bad valve stem seal, so I put a new one on.  

I don't plan on re-ringing it unless I find a really good reason to do so.  I don't want to get into it that deep.  

I reloaded the tune to an earlier one and it really seemwd like it was running fine now.  I didn't run it long but it wasn't stumbling and the O2 gauge was reporting believable AFR numbers.  

Stuff like that makes using a carburetor sound good again.  That is, until I need to make a jetting change and it's 95 degrees outside and 200 degrees under the hood!  Haha.

Carburetor's are Great but Like Everything have some Cons Too.

I Always ran these on the Serious Stuff.  On Dual Side Mounts Jet Changes are a Piece of Cake.

On a Single Quad I sawed the Handle Off The Install Tool to Clear Better in the Back.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/holley-quick-change-jet-fuel-bowl-kit/p/HL3424/?year=1986&gclid=CjwKCAjws9ipBhB1EiwAccEi1Hgh18Dg7k2xzwhKq1oUDGIE6fKpTwficVo8N9mUR2XCLt3BgjrMChoCFMwQAvD_BwE

Adding Base Gasket for #6 Position {Think About It } Brought my Idle Down to Normal. LoL

All Black, You Know What, and Working at Night and Having to Pull Everything Back Off, to Cut Firewall's for Air Cleaner Clearance with 2 Dailys Down, You Know, "Shit Happens's"!

Happy Happy Happy Now.

I was looking at headers because the driver's side header is jacked up. The Hooker's I have on it are no longer available and other BBF to Fox chassis headers are crazy expensive. I ran across these on sale (>$300) and since I am still playing with the idea of putting the GT45's on this engine, I ordered a set..

Now, these are an upswept forward design that I do not think will fit in this car as is. BUT, my highly calibrated eyeball thinks I can flip the flanges (BBF flanges do not fit properly upside down) and make them go down and forward.without too much trouble. At the very least, they are a better start than me making a set from scratch.

BigBlockRanger wrote:I finally got the right locks so I put the heads together today. I goofed and ordered a set of +0.050's when I meant to order -0.050's. Everything looks good now. I really want to put them on, but I gotta get back to working on the green car!

​

Also I think I have finally ordered a cam that is in stock.

I picked a Comp XM288H. When I compared it in Dyno2003 to the Lunati that I had on backorder, it was virtually identical and actually made a little more top end.

Cam specs:

Advertised Intake Duration: 288

Advertised Exhaust Duration: 304

Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 244

Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 254

Intake Valve Lift: 0.570

Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.575

LSA is 112 and ICL is 110.

Ideally I would have chosen a tighter LSA, maybe a 108, but beggars can't be too choosy these days.

This one has 20 degrees more duration at 0.050 on both the intake and exhaust than the cam that is currently in it. Plus a little more lift and 3° less cam advance.

^ That Cam and The 4R70W with a Lockup Torque Convertor will Be Interesting going Down the Highway.

I Also wonder what Launch Traction will be like with a 2.84/1 1st. Gear?

I Guess Give it a Try and See.

I'm kind of in a conundrum with this thing. I really want to take this car on RMRW next year in late June. That puts a hard deadline on anything I want to do to it. I have SCJ heads and a cam that I planned to swap in to perk it up a bit (a lot). These heads have 72cc chambers and that will shoot the compression ratio up well out of a boost friendly range (as shown above).

While I would love to jump right into putting turbos on this thing, mainly because I enjoy the fabrication and challenge, I think I am going to do a head/cam swap so I can comfortably (knock on wood) make RW. Besides, the only constant with this car over the years has been change.

Put the car up in the air and hooked a come-along to the header and back edge of the subframe connector. I put a *considerable* amount of pressure on it to attempt to pull it back to the right shape. I whacked it with a block of wood and hammer to encourage it to return to the right shape. Kinda surprising how far I was able to pull it back with the come-along... Only to have it move back when I released it.

I had some success, not as much as I wanted but that's ok. I almost have the header out and will cut and hammer it until it is back to fitting close to what it should. .

I am toying with the idea of doing a different motor mount setup. Primarily to make room for down and forward headers and mounting turbos later on. It would be similar to a motor plate except it would be made from a piece of tubing that simply arcs over the timing cover. An aluminum plate bolted to the timing cover would then bolt to the tubing. Fairly simple and would free up space.

Driver's side header is out. They steering shaft is and always has been a huge pain in the butt. It is a solid shaft and is darn near impossible to get in and out. The green car uses a different style (telescoping) and is a total breeze to deal with. I am going to change this thing somehow to telescope. I'm too old to jack with that dumb thing anymore.

Anyway, while it is out I felt obligated to test fit a shorty header backwards. Looks good.

I also started on the engine mount. I bent a piece of tubing to the desired-ish shape and started eyeballing everything.

Whittling away at the engine mount.

Missed one.

I pulled the rubber engine mounts out and set the engine down on the new mount. Seems to fit fine.

A test fit the black headers and the driver side fits great, but the passenger side dumps directly on top off the steering rack. Boo.

I played with the forward dump headers today. These were originally a set designed to go up and forward. Going up was not a possibility so I cut the flanges off to see if they would go down and forward. This is really just proof of concept but it looks like I could make them fit reasonably well with a little effort. The driver's side would need to be shortened a bit as it is real close to the lower radiator bung.

Still, I am not 100% sure this is the route I want to take. I am working on a couple other options. The old multi-piece Hooker headers are pretty rough and are crazy hard to work around so I don't think I will be reusing them. Maybe.

I decided to play with Send Cut Send. I sent them a CAD file for a BBC to BBF header adapter I whipped up and they showed up today. I am more than happy with how they turned out. The process, price and end product were all great.

I had them cut the bolt holes small so I could finish them out however I wanted. I couldn't stand it, so I went out and drilled out the two end holes to the proper size and it fit the head like a glove.

Drilled the rest of the BBF holes. Dead nuts on.

Getting the steering shaft in and out has to be one of the most frustrating jobs on this car.

The collapsible portion of the steering column is up in the dash so the lower shaft is solid. This makes it really hard to get the shaft in and out of the car. For the past 12 years I've just dealt with it. No more!!

I started making a telescoping lower shaft today using a section of shaft and u-joint from a '96 F250. It's coming together nicely and once I have the proper length set, I will put a set screw of some sort in to secure it and further stabilize it.

What did those headers start out as?