Aerospace brakes

How many of you run these ? I've have an assload of trouble with the rotors and hats. I've spent over $500 on replacement parts in the last 3 seasons. Pisses me off, they say I'm hitting the brakes too hard. Well, I like to frickin stop before the end of the track. They're selling them as race brakes....Seems to me they should handle stopping a mid 5 second chassis car? Well ,I feel better now....

Hi Dan I'm glad you are feeling better today.

Dan, I have had mine for a few years now and I don't have a problem with them. Of corse in the last few years they might have contracted ProComp to do the machining.... Don't know

I have no idea why they are not working. Seems to me brakes are to stop a car no matter how hard you hit them. Sounds like a tipical dumass hard at work giving good info to you.

They stop my 3200 car fine at 130 mph in the 1/8 Dan ........ but im sure you mph is much faster then mine

what are they doing?

Let me guess....are the calipers leaking?

I had an issue with my Strange brakes after I ran the car a few times, the rotors were warped badly, and after 3 runs they should not have beeen. Hell the rears had been on the car for awhile with no issues. Come to find out the pad material changed, the old pads were a tan colored material, the newer were black . After talking with Duffy we agreed the pad material was too aggressive, I turned the rotors and stuck a used set of the older style pads on and the warping issues went away..............my deal is 3000#'s and at Lawton the shutdown is as short as WH if not shorter, I have to get pretty aggessive with the brakes there...and still have no more issues.

Not sure this is the same as your problem, just what I found on my on my deal.

They stop our ride pretty easily. We have them front and rear with dual calipers in the rear. It actually stopped better with the single rears but we have to have the duals to stage. I will say that it took us a long time with different thicknesses of shims to get the calipers centered perfectly over the rotor. That may be your issue, I don't know, but I sure hope you get them figured out.

Which brakes? Don't they make different ones for different weights?

well i would like to thank Dan for this thread .. i went outside tonight to ck my rotors and they all have cracks around every sing crossdrilled hole .... an accident ready to happen

I have seen threads on other forums about the Strange rotors cracking at the slots on the outside edge..............I make it part of my ritual inspection after every race.

No issues yet.....but always looking.

I have Aerospace brakes on the rear and never had any real issues. I have strange on the front and did warp a right front rotor for some reason. If you use the wrong pads they will develop a lot of little surface cracks from too much heat.

CARBON...$$$$$$$$

wilwood's on the rear for years and no problems.i just put new wilwood's on my strange struts with the frontend swap,hope to see how they work soon.

The brown (soft/organic) pads increase rotor life a bunch because the pads become the "sacrificial part". The down side is the constant rotor & pad glazing they cause, and the increased brake squeal & brake fade from the glazing. The more aggressive black pads (metallic/semi metallic) are going to wear the rotors a lot faster & get them a lot hotter, a lot faster when stopping (the cause of the micro cracking). But they cure the top end brake fade & rotor/pad glazing the organic brown pads are known for.

It's a trade-off with either pad.


I haven't messed with the Aerospace brakes before so I can't say if their good or bad. The MW & time tested JFZ stuff seems to always work good. The Strange light weight mini's on their spindle mount struts also seem to do well.

The cheapest thing to do is to pull the chute.

whatbumper wrote:The cheapest thing to do is to pull the chute.

slow shit dont need one.

whatbumper wrote:The cheapest thing to do is to pull the chute.

Then you have to spend the brake maintenance money on 'chute maintenance. The idea of the Stroud D-bags are the work of a genius, but they sure get scuffed up & abused.

JFZ is no more. SAD story there.
One of the top guys at Art Morrison told me this story about JFZ.
Apparently the owners mother died(elderly) Then shortly after one of his Sons died unexpectantly. The owner just sort of lost it so to speak and closed up shop.EVERYTHING, stock, tooling, went in the dumpster for scrap under guard..

Morrison pleaded to purchase everything to no avail. Wild......

Years ago I guess JFZ was also making their stuff for other company's to sell as their own product. My first set of "Mark Williams" brakes came with JFZ calipers. And I have seen old Lamb brakes that were really JFZ calipers with a "Lamb" sticker on them.

whatbumper wrote:The cheapest thing to do is to pull the chute.

and its no biggie if you ain't gotta pack it................

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:

whatbumper wrote:The cheapest thing to do is to pull the chute.

Then you have to spend the brake maintenance money on 'chute maintenance. The idea of the Stroud D-bags are the work of a genius, but they sure get scuffed up & abused.

its still a 2 man job.............I just thought it was me but after watching them 2 bitch about it..........same one I got................I didn't feel so bad lol.

richter69 wrote:

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:

whatbumper wrote:The cheapest thing to do is to pull the chute.

Then you have to spend the brake maintenance money on 'chute maintenance. The idea of the Stroud D-bags are the work of a genius, but they sure get scuffed up & abused.

its still a 2 man job.............I just thought it was me but after watching them 2 bitch about it..........same one I got................I didn't feel so bad lol.

I can pack a Stroud/D-bag setup by myself no problem, it's damn easy to do ........but that Deist & Simpson crap is another fuk'n story.

The bags not the issue, that damn pilot chute-spring is the PITA..........I've done it by myself, but a 2nd set of hands sure cuts down on the foul words lol.

The 1st problem was a few years ago ,the 1st night out ,one rotor cracked like Nick's . Every hole in the rotor was cracked out. Then like to never got the rotor unbolted from the hat. This time the pads were wore out and one rotor tried to turn wrong side out. It's got almost 1/4 gap from inside to outside edge. I'll take a pic of it, I can't believe it could roll that far, then couldn't get it loose from the hat. I've got JFZ's on the front. I'm going to check the pads on them too. they were new in 06..Damn good life on them.The 1/4 mile 150mph shots got them. I'm not as pissed about the trouble as I am the parts cost! I'd been money ahead to have bought an extra set for parts! When you go fast and race alot ,you got to pay the price....but damn ....$234 for 1 rotor and hat!!! The whole set was only $465.