Connecting rod failure

Would something like this work?

No it wont fit. I have one of those on the shelf.

bbf-falcon wrote:

The Pan is the same one I have. You have other problems than the Pan. The Kaase pump and the Eagle H beams are not the culprit either. You are barking up the wrong tree imo.

[/quote]

Are you using a tray and the screen that is in the pan?

Dave I have the same setup for remote BUT I have 3/4NPT to #10 AN fittings going to #10 AN hose and the same on the filter housing just like yours with dual remotes....I also run the 90* setup like Lem showed now with the Filter pointing strait forward.. and I know that either works, just don't know about your hose fittings.....also anbother thing to check is the direction thru the remote setup? there is an in and an out, and can easily be wrong and some filters don't like reverse flow.....







Dave something to check is can you take the hose off and look all the way thru it? I have seen where some hose had deficts in it and when pressured it catches the inside sleeve and partially blocks the oil path........restricting the oil... just a thought....

Canton has a much better designed adapter than the trans-adapt unit....but it still has 1/2" n.p.t. ports. The least thing I would run would be -10 hose [9/16" i.d.] with a -10 port or 3/4" n.p.t.

I don't like to get real negitive about brands but, that thing you have belongs on stock 1978 F250 351M or a farm tractor.

The above may not be "the" problem but it's gottta be "an" issue.

Seems the engine is a slave to the frame......i'd adjust things to get the FRRP 90* adapter on it i.m.o.

the Coug wrote:Dave I have the same setup for remote BUT I have 3/4NPT to #10 AN fittings going to #10 AN hose and the same on the filter housing just like yours with dual remotes....I also run the 90* setup like Lem showed now with the Filter pointing strait forward.. and I know that either works, just don't know about your hose fittings.....also anbother thing to check is the direction thru the remote setup? there is an in and an out, and can easily be wrong and some filters don't like reverse flow.....







Dave something to check is can you take the hose off and look all the way thru it? I have seen where some hose had deficts in it and when pressured it catches the inside sleeve and partially blocks the oil path........restricting the oil... just a thought....

Coug....you posted this while i was typing...we are on the same page about this.

the Coug wrote:Dave I have the same setup for remote BUT I have 3/4NPT to #10 AN fittings going to #10 AN hose and the same on the filter housing just like yours with dual remotes....I also run the 90* setup like Lem showed now with the Filter pointing strait forward.. and I know that either works, just don't know about your hose fittings.....also anbother thing to check is the direction thru the remote setup? there is an in and an out, and can easily be wrong and some filters don't like reverse flow.....

Dave something to check is can you take the hose off and look all the way thru it? I have seen where some hose had deficts in it and when pressured it catches the inside sleeve and partially blocks the oil path........restricting the oil... just a thought....

Good to know about your similar set-up. I know the lines were connected properly for flow the direction thru the filter is very important.
The lines are clear and I planned on moving up to AN lines eventually.

This photo is two runs before the disaster.

another thing I do to the stock Blocks is the oil passage from the pump to the filter and back to the main oil passage in the block I increase the hole size to 5/8 but when you do this you have to go up in small increments to keep the bit strait....I don't know if it helps or not but I look at it as more volume and less restriction.....



Dave on the remote filter setup like I was running I know it took and extra 2 1/2 quarts to make up for the extra filters and hoses

Lem Evans wrote:Canton has a much better designed adapter than the trans-adapt unit....but it still has 1/2" n.p.t. ports. The least thing I would run would be -10 hose [9/16" i.d.] with a -10 port or 3/4" n.p.t.

I don't like to get real negitive about brands but, that thing you have belongs on stock 1978 F250 351M or a farm tractor.

The above may not be "the" problem but it's gottta be "an" issue.

Seems the engine is a slave to the frame......i'd adjust things to get the FRRP 90* adapter on it i.m.o.

I remember picking it up from Mancini Racing and it was the best that they had. I like the farm tractor comment. There's no way practical to alter the frame. I'd be better off putting a BBC in it. Something else to know... when driving on the street and slowing to make a right turn the pressure always dropped substantially.

the Coug wrote:another thing I do to the stock Blocks is the oil passage from the pump to the filter and back to the main oil passage in the block I increase the hole size to 5/8 but when you do this you have to go up in small increments to keep the bit strait....I don't know if it helps or not but I look at it as more volume and less restriction.....



Dave on the remote filter setup like I was running I know it took and extra 2 1/2 quarts to make up for the extra filters and hoses

I've done the block modifications per Pauls website but with a 1/4 inch end mill and a small die grinder. The motor usually had more than 9 quarts in it but if you say that the 7qt pan realy needs 9 and the two filters with lines need 2.5 qts. then the total is 11.5 qts.
I never ran that much but maybe I should have??

Dave on my car right now I have a Milidon front sump deep pan and it is 8 quarts, with the remote setup I had to have 10 1/2 quarts in it for the extra filters and hoses.

At any rate.....take a look at the Canton 22-595 adapter.

For another off-the-rack pan try the MOR. 20625 fox chassis pan.

I prefer ~ 3/8" sump to pan clearance with the gasket included.

the Coug wrote:Dave on my car right now I have a Milidon front sump deep pan and it is 8 quarts, with the remote setup I had to have 10 1/2 quarts in it for the extra filters and hoses.

I could put a front sump pan on the car but I was told to go rear sump because they are better. What pan are you using? Do you loose pressure while running?

Lem Evans wrote:At any rate.....take a look at the Canton 22-595 adapter.

For another off-the-rack pan try the MOR. 20625 fox chassis pan.

I prefer ~ 3/8" sump to pan clearance with the gasket included.

I hear ya...I will step on the lines with a bigger adapter. Is an "off the rack" pan the way to go for me and what do you think about a front sump? Starting to think this is a buy 3 pans and see which one works then sell the others off.

hows the oiling in the engine? roller cam,restrictors......? over oiling the top end maybe

cool40 wrote:hows the oiling in the engine? roller cam,restrictors......? over oiling the top end maybe

D9 block no restrictors recently switched to Morel lifters to reduce the over oiling but not sure if it was ever a problem.

Dave De wrote:

cool40 wrote:hows the oiling in the engine? roller cam,restrictors......? over oiling the top end maybe

D9 block no restrictors recently switched to Morel lifters to reduce the over oiling but not sure if it was ever a problem.

it could be worth your time to see how much it has going to the rockers.i'm sure you know the issue with the lifters in "bars down".

cool40 wrote:

Dave De wrote:

cool40 wrote:hows the oiling in the engine? roller cam,restrictors......? over oiling the top end maybe

D9 block no restrictors recently switched to Morel lifters to reduce the over oiling but not sure if it was ever a problem.

it could be worth your time to see how much it has going to the rockers.i'm sure you know the issue with the lifters in "bars down".

Do you run restrictors in your factory block?

What rocker arms? Have you checked to make sure the oil is draining back to the pan efficiently? Do the pushrods have oil restrictors in them?

Milodon #697-30929 this is like the pan I run. and no I have no oil drop at any time my engine hold #75 all the time idle to full throttle and back....I have to run this pan because my car is still got the stock chassis of the 69 mustang/ cougars and the headers go under the pan for NOW



Personally when I change the chassis I will be talking to Lem and get a nice pan from him....



in my Factory block I didn't run restrictors in the block I used .060 restricted pushrods

bigblok2000ranger wrote:What rocker arms? Have you checked to make sure the oil is draining back to the pan efficiently? Do the pushrods have oil restrictors in them?

Rockers are FRPP (Crane golds)
Pushrods are FRPP as well not sure of the thru hole
oil drain back holes in the heads to the block match up very well

Dave De wrote:

cool40 wrote:

Dave De wrote:

cool40 wrote:hows the oiling in the engine? roller cam,restrictors......? over oiling the top end maybe

D9 block no restrictors recently switched to Morel lifters to reduce the over oiling but not sure if it was ever a problem.

it could be worth your time to see how much it has going to the rockers.i'm sure you know the issue with the lifters in "bars down".

Do you run restrictors in your factory block?

no,never have.

Dave De wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:

The Pan is the same one I have. You have other problems than the Pan. The Kaase pump and the Eagle H beams are not the culprit either. You are barking up the wrong tree imo.

Are you using a tray and the screen that is in the pan?[/quote]

Yes

bbf-falcon wrote:

Dave De wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:

The Pan is the same one I have. You have other problems than the Pan. The Kaase pump and the Eagle H beams are not the culprit either. You are barking up the wrong tree imo.

Are you using a tray and the screen that is in the pan?

Yes[/quote]

Who's tray are you using and what stroke are you running?
Does the crank set level with the ground or is there an angle to help oil drain back?

Dave,you might have something other than oiling problems going on inside that block. Oil pressure dropping while going around curves,breaking Eagle H-beam rods etc. All that shits not normal. Hope you find it soon. When you strip the block down,clean it w/brake clean and look for cracks in webbings from cam journals to the mains and everywhere else. Something will show up I think. Good luck brother.

4.5 stroke.557 w/Kaase pump,your pan,3qt. accumulator,Eagle HHHHHHH beams