Re: ladder bar setup

68formalGT April 2nd 2014, 1:19 pm

I was thinking for the front mount on mine notching the bottom of the channel then putting some square tubing in the notched area butted up to the top part on the channel. Weld it all the way down on the inside of the frame then it could be covered and boxed in. Those front mounts s&w is making sound like they would work perfectly. How soon till you get them and could you post a picture? I'm putting my Bronco in the shop on the 11th so I have a week and a half to get it all figured out.

kjett April 2nd 2014, 1:22 pm

Ordered them yesterday and the sales guy said it would take a few days to cut them, so hopefully sometime next week I'll have them

68formalGT April 2nd 2014, 1:23 pm

After re reading your plan Karl it seems like you and I have the same thoughts for the front mount.

n5ifi April 2nd 2014, 8:35 pm

kjett wrote:ok all you chassis guys, need some input. When I set my mud truck up originally, I tried to do what all the other trucks had and I made my ladder bars around 52". I know long as crap. Well, I noticed over the winter that somehow I bent both lower bars (not up like I would think, but pushed about 1.5" toward the passenger side) right in the middle of them. These were 1" chromoly tube. I've got new 1 1/4" chromoly tube coming in that I will make new ones with. The big question is how whould the bars be set? Most drag car setups I've seen have the lower bar parralel to the frame or with the front of the bar a few degrees down. I originally set mine like most truck setups with the upper bar parralel to the frame. Is there a big difference in doing that? I do have housing floaters, monoleaf with spring sliders, and coilovers. The monoleaf is to keep me in class rule, so in reality it should be more like a cadderbar/coilover suspension with the leaf springs there just to keep the axle centered under the truck. So thoughts, input, how do I keep this from happening again?

Edit: looking back at older videos and comparing to new cut down body, it never really launches hard where the front is noticibly coming up. It just used to leave pretty level after a slight roll. I need to fix that too!

disregard post

68formalGT April 8th 2014, 9:35 pm

Karl, I was looking at my Bronco and the front control arms set close to level with the ground, the end rod for the arm is about 10" down from the top part of the frame channel, would you think that is low enough? If you put the lower bar level it seems like it would set real low and the mount would be in the mud.

kjett April 11th 2014, 8:54 am

That's the plan. I already had a new set of drop brackets made by S&W racecars. They will be about 10.5" below my frame and hang in the mud. Hopefully, I can hook up enough that I'll get up on top and not have to worry about them. Rear end is already out and being cleaned up/repainted, New bars and brackets will be welded in by the end of the weekend as long as the honeydoo list doesn't get in the way.

68formalGT April 11th 2014, 5:24 pm

Karl did you get the brackets yet? Can you post a picture and who did you talk to?

kjett April 14th 2014, 11:09 pm

Yep. they look great. Here is a quick pic of them when I opened the box:

ladder bar setup - Page 2 3C27813F_zpsb556deb6

68formalGT April 15th 2014, 12:33 am

Those look good. Did you have to get a new cross member to?

kjett April 15th 2014, 7:58 am

Can't run a full crossmember due to the driveshaft, so I'm welding some 2x3" box stubs in the frame. The frame will get boxed around the stubs to keep from twisting up. This will be helped by keeping the original tubular crossmember that is about 6" away. The new brackets will get an angular brace on the front side going back up to the original front brackets to triangulate everything and keep it strong.

68formalGT April 15th 2014, 8:44 am

kjett wrote:Can't run a full crossmember due to the driveshaft, so I'm welding some 2x3" box stubs in the frame. The frame will get boxed around the stubs to keep from twisting up. This will be helped by keeping the original tubular crossmember that is about 6" away. The new brackets will get an angular brace on the front side going back up to the original front brackets to triangulate everything and keep it strong.

That sounds good. I found a photo of Critters truck and it looks like he put 2"x2" angle pieces in front of and behind the square tubing to help support the frame opening.

kjett April 16th 2014, 7:41 am

I dont have a good close up of his, just going from conversation. link to that pic?

68formalGT April 16th 2014, 9:35 am

Pictures are about 5 posts downrear suspension setup help - 460 Ford" forumhttp://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t="157868&highlight=mud+suspensionkjett wrote:I dont have a good close up of his, just going from conversation. link to that pic?

kjett April 16th 2014, 9:55 am

somethings not working on that link, but I'll search it.

edit: found it, forgot all about that discussion.

68formalGT April 16th 2014, 10:30 am

http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157868&highlight=mud+suspension

tried again.

68formalGT May 3rd 2014, 2:54 pm

How's the suspension going Karl?

kjett May 5th 2014, 1:59 pm

Slow. It's prime baseball season for my son, and with me being one of the coaches that takes up a bunch of my time. I do have the housing floaters on, axle squared in the frame, pinion angle set, and the new front mounts tacked in place. Will spend time this afternoon finish welding the new front brackets and brace them up. After that's it's all about cutting tube and making the new ladder bars.

68formalGT May 5th 2014, 4:12 pm

Sounds like your making progress. I have a week of vacation starting the 18th so I'm hoping to finish everything then. I got the coilovers in and cut the back of the secondary leafs off and went racing two weeks ago and took 2nd. I can't wait to get the rest finished.

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