521 Refresh questions

I Think You Will be Hard Pressed To Beat This Price, Could Be Wrong Though.

4.5" Forged Molnar Crankshaft (6.7" Minimum Length Rod) It Will Take 6.8"'s



I Don't Think .2" of Stroke Will Overshoot Your HP Goal and If I Had an After Market 4 Bolt Strong Block, I Would Most Certainly Go That Way, If It Was My Money. Just Saying

Also If I was at a 4.6" Bore I Would Do The 4.6" Molnar For The Same Price.

They Make All Kinds of Traction Management Systems NowaDays, Not To Mention Other Ways To Slow a Car Down. Going Fast Is The Hard/Expensive Part

supervel45 wrote:I Think You Will be Hard Pressed To Beat This Price, Could Be Wrong Though.

4.5" Forged Molnar Crankshaft (6.7" Minimum Length Rod) It Will Take 6.8"'s



I Don't Think .2" of Stroke Will Overshoot Your HP Goal and If I Had an After Market 4 Bolt Strong Block, I Would Most Certainly Go That Way, If It Was My Money. Just Saying

Also If I was at a 4.6" Bore I Would Do The 4.6" Molnar For The Same Price.

They Make All Kinds of Traction Management Systems NowaDays, Not To Mention Other Ways To Slow a Car Down. Going Fast Is The Hard/Expensive Part

X2 seems like a good price IMO as well!!

Whats the general opinion on using main studs? My Eliminator block came with grade 8 bolts and i was thinking of changing over to ARP studs while its apart this time. I searched thru the forum and it seems that some people are against using studs but i never really found the reasoning behind it.

650jetmech wrote:Whats the general opinion on using main studs? My Eliminator block came with grade 8 bolts and i was thinking of changing over to ARP studs while its apart this time. I searched thru the forum and it seems that some people are against using studs but i never really found the reasoning behind it.

Not necessary unless you need the long ones to mount a windage tray.